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my OWN engine demons ... (down on power)

  • Thread starter Thread starter Synned
  • Start date Start date Sep 15, 2005
S

Synned

took tubgirl on a date and got banned
Mar 31, 2005
991
1
0
Philly
Sep 15, 2005
#1
  • Sep 15, 2005
  • #1
Okay I am having a power problem. After the car has heated up and has been running it runs like balls. It might even be the 2nd time I start it up but that doesn't make sense. The car will hesitate, say I'm trying to pull out of somewhere and give it a little throttle it will be really slow and hesitate. When the car is gold it feels amazing, I can burn out from a stop etc. So far I have done:
Plugs
Wires
Distributer cap and rotor
o2's
fuel filter
cleaned maf and iat.
What the heck can be the problem? Can my transmission be slipping? I also get horrible mileage and im pretty sure they are related. I really really want to get this fixed. Can it be the fuel pump? I heard when they heat up they get ****ty. I'm just about to take it to a mechanic, would they be able to solve the problem?

Thanks guys, any suggestions would be great.
 

carbed87

Member
Jun 5, 2005
215
0
16
Sep 15, 2005
#2
  • Sep 15, 2005
  • #2
huh, thats funny cause mine does that on the first start of the day, i know what you mean, it just hesitates, well you'll be at the top of the screen now, so mabye someone will help
 

jrichker

StangNet's favorite TOOL
In Remembrance. Thank you for your contributions
Mar 10, 2000
27,512
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234
Dublin GA
Sep 15, 2005
#3
  • Sep 15, 2005
  • #3
Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $35.
 
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