Name my Tick

I have three symptons....

1. Ticking sound from driver side only really noticable at idle
2. Strong smell of fuel
3. Lose of power


I'm trying to determine if it's a header gasket, lifter, rocker, or fuel injector. Are these three symptons a tell tale signs of a certain problem. I'll be doing the vacuum hose stethoscope this weekend, but I just wanted to great some ideas before hand.

Thanks guys
 
Strong smell of fuel from inside and from engine compartment, not really at the tailpipes. My gas tank is open vented, but it's never smelled this strong.

The ticking is audible at idle when cold or hot. At rpms above idle I can't tell if I can hear it as the exhaust is too loud and the gear drive whines too much.

I've had a header gasket leak before and I don't remember it sounding like this or the strong smell of fuel.
 
... I'll be doing the vacuum hose stethoscope this weekend.
95strokerPSU,

My bet is a bad valve lifter.

Also, it’s much easier to test for noises using wood, really! I’ve done it a zillion times. A stethoscope or a length of rubber hose really does not work very well at all. (Sound travels much more efficiently through wood than it does air. You’ll be surprised.)

So, get an old wooden broom handle that you don't want and cut yourself a 3-foot length off the end of it. You want it at least that long so you can get your head far enough away from the engine when you are listening. If you don’t have an old broom to cut up, go to a hardware store and buy a 3-foot length of wooden dowel. Get one that is at least 1 inch in diameter.

Push the cut off end hard against the part, housing, or accessory on the engine you suspect is making the noise. You've got to make good solid contact. Push the other round end snuggly against the opening of your ear and cup your hand around it to act like a seal against outside noises. Then listen to the sound traveling up the wood from the accessory. (You need to push it against your ear pretty firmly to make sure the sound transfers properly.) You will be able to hear any noise coming from the part you are testing really clearly.

I’ve tracked down many engine noises using the old broomstick trick! You can even differentiate different sound pitches as well. If the sound you hear through your open ear matches the sound coming up the broomstick to your other ear, you’ve found the offending source of the noise.

Good luck.
 
Did you install the cross over tube for the emissions between the heads or did you plug them? The reason I ask is I had a similar noise and thought it was internal and had most of the top end tore down. Well I was just about to pull the heads off when I noticed something sticking out of the back of the drivers side head. Turns out the plug that I installed in the emissions port had backed out over time and was causing a huge exhaust leak that sounded like it was a lifter. Went to napa and bought a new plug and some loctite and stuck it back in and that was the end of my tick. My car had the same symptoms that you were decribing and I thought the worst and it ended up being simple and cheap.
 

I wish it was that easy...I just checked both thermac plugs and they're still good.

I drove the car from my house to my parents house this morning and it was breaking up really bad above 3000 RPM. I'm gonna see if there's any codes.
 
I pulled all the plugs and they all look fine but when I started it, it's now backfiring at idle, either in the manifold or in the headers. I have to think that the ticking and now the backfiring are connected.

Also, I went to pull the codes and the scan tool isn't working. Would removing my stock gauge cluster and having the two harnesses that used to connect to the cluster not plugged in affect pulling the codes? or is my scan tool probably defective?