If all fails, run 12v to the motor just to get the window up for now. Reverse positive and negative wires to go either way (up or down). I think that would work.
If all fails, run 12v to the motor just to get the window up for now. Reverse positive and negative wires to go either way (up or down). I think that would work.
I guess that will have to do for now..I guess the biggest thing I am hoping for is that someone can point out something that is notorius for going out or something? My budyd said something about a power window module or a GEM..GEM being behind the fuse pannel under the dash.......
I guess that will have to do for now..I guess the biggest thing I am hoping for is that someone can point out something that is notorius for going out or something? My budyd said something about a power window module or a GEM..GEM being behind the fuse pannel under the dash.......
When my drivers side window went out all I could hear is a tick by the fuse box when I pushed down but no tick when I pushed up. I'm sure there must be something there controlling the window. I called it a relay before but it might be called something else. Maybe you can find something usefull at this thread. http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=549172
Didnt help it has to be some type of electrical problem...and I want both windows to roll down bc it is way to expensive to run the AC with gas as high as it is!..Mikez28 usually gives me great advice but I dont see him around much anymore
Switches are good and motors are good it seems...where is the best place to check for problems with the wires? I am sure there has to be a trouble spot or something that happens alot..
You'll need to provide some more information to us at this point. Specifically:
1. Can you measure voltage at the output of the switch on the pass. window switch in the drivers door? If you cannot, then you could have a bad connection at the termination point of the wire to the switch itself. If you can, then you need to move on to the passenger door.
2. Can you measure voltage at the INPUT side of the passenger switch when pressing the pass window switch in the drivers' door? If not, then somewhere between the switches, the connection is broken. (I would then look in the kick panel area for the molex plugs that connect the door harnesses to the vehicle main harness and inspect them for a bad connection, etc.)
3. If you can measure input voltage at the switch in the pass door, can you measure output voltage at the switch in the pass door? If not, then inspect the connection point here.
It is simply a process of elimination. Your power window motors are simple - put 12 volts to one wire, ground the other and the motor will move one direction. Reverse the connections, and the motor will move in the opposite direction. To get the window UP for now, you can do this with a battery from a cordless drill (at least a 9.6 volt) by unplugging the motor and temporarily connecting it to the cordless drill battery.
damacman's description of how the circuit works is perfect. The "GEM" module handles the express ("one touch down") down function for the drivers window, if you have it. It should not affect the passenger window even if bad.
Now that you've established that both switches and motors are OK, I think you have a broken wire or bad connector pin somewhere between the two switches. First place I would look is the harness that passes through the drivers door jamb, because it is flexed every time you open your door.
OK..in the drivers side door where the hinges are we pulled back the rubber hose and found a pink.blue (i think) wire that has been cut..we are going to wire that one back up and see what happens...do you guys think this may be the cause?
Like everyoen said the wire in the door was cut where the door hinges open and now all I have to do is patch the wire! I touched them together and everything worked! WOOT! Thank you guys so very much for all of the help!