Progress Thread New To Me 1988 GT - power window motor voltage issue and door speaker wiring question

[pindude80]

Sunday a friend of mine told me about an '88 GT. He said it was a "barn find" I went and looked at it. It is a diamond in the rough. The guy I bought it from bought it as a flip. He said it sat for at least 9 years. He got it running but it doesn't run well. I was able to drive it home but it definitely doesn't run right. It doesn't rev clean / hesitates, and occasionally backfires up through the air intake. When I rev it I can occasionally hear a pistion rattle. The car is pretty much stock from what I can see other than some questionable exhaust work.

The first thing I thought of was it had bad gas in it. The guy I got it from said that it ran out of gas on him and he put 10 gallons of fresh 93 octane in it. I was thinking maybe it has a bad or sticky injector. I was going to change the fuel filter, pull the spark plugs, look at the distributor cap and rotor. I cannot pull the codes because some DA put a 1990+ cluster in it and everything is jacked up relating to the cluster; I will make a separate thread on this.

What would you guys look at?

 

[gkomo]

There should be some ports up by the drivers side firewall (near the brake booster) that you can plug a scanner in to read codes. I don't think the cluster matters.

I would definitely go through the entire fuel system with it sitting for that long. Looks clean tho!

 

[AeroCoupe]

If I remember correctly 87-88 cars do not have the CEL from the factory. You can still pull codes regardless of the cluster.

Electrical Thread 'How To Pull Codes From EEC-IV In 86- 95 5.0 Mustangs'

Jan 27, 2016

@Noobz347 - The code dump procedure isn't in the sticky - you may want to add it...



Dump the codes: Codes may be present even if the Check Engine Light (CEL) isn't on.

Dumping the computer diagnostic codes on 86-95 Mustangs

Revised 26-July-2011. Added need to make sure the clutch is pressed when dumping codes.

Codes may be present even if the check engine light hasn’t come on, so be sure to check for them.

Here's the way to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for...

• jrichker
• Replies: 3
• Forum: Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech

• 

 

[pindude80]

There should be some ports up by the drivers side firewall (near the brake booster) that you can plug a scanner in to read codes. I don't think the cluster matters.

I would definitely go through the entire fuel system with it sitting for that long. Looks clean tho!

Yep, I do remember the plug you are talking about. I guess I will have to get a code reader. I remember jumping the wires back in the day and counting the Check Engine Light pulses.

I think I am going to drop the fuel tank and look into it or at least start with looking in it with a boroescope.

It is clean, very much a diamond in the rough but a very solid car that hasn't been messed with much. I just put some more pics in the first post.

 

[gkomo]

Yep, I do remember the plug you are talking about. I guess I will have to get a code reader. I remember jumping the wires back in the day and counting the Check Engine Light pulses.

I think I am going to drop the fuel tank and look into it or at least start with looking in it with a boroescope.

It is clean, very much a diamond in the rough but a very solid car that hasn't been messed with much. I just put some more pics in the first post.

Whats the cap on the oil fill port on the passenger side valve cover? I would also replace the PCV filter/valve as it could be gummed up from sitting so long.

 

[pindude80]

If I remember correctly 87-88 cars do not have the CEL from the factory. You can still pull codes regardless of the cluster.

Electrical Thread 'How To Pull Codes From EEC-IV In 86- 95 5.0 Mustangs'

Jan 27, 2016

@Noobz347 - The code dump procedure isn't in the sticky - you may want to add it...



Dump the codes: Codes may be present even if the Check Engine Light (CEL) isn't on.

Dumping the computer diagnostic codes on 86-95 Mustangs

Revised 26-July-2011. Added need to make sure the clutch is pressed when dumping codes.

Codes may be present even if the check engine light hasn’t come on, so be sure to check for them.

Here's the way to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for...

• jrichker
• Replies: 3
• Forum: Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech

• 

I'm not sure if they have a CEL or not; I'll have to check.

I appreciate the link you posted. I will look at it.

If I remember correctly 87-88 cars do not have the CEL from the factory. You can still pull codes regardless of the cluster.

Electrical Thread 'How To Pull Codes From EEC-IV In 86- 95 5.0 Mustangs'

Jan 27, 2016

@Noobz347 - The code dump procedure isn't in the sticky - you may want to add it...



Dump the codes: Codes may be present even if the Check Engine Light (CEL) isn't on.

Dumping the computer diagnostic codes on 86-95 Mustangs

Revised 26-July-2011. Added need to make sure the clutch is pressed when dumping codes.

Codes may be present even if the check engine light hasn’t come on, so be sure to check for them.

Here's the way to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for...

• jrichker
• Replies: 3
• Forum: Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech

• 

If I remember correctly 87-88 cars do not have the CEL from the factory. You can still pull codes regardless of the cluster.

Electrical Thread 'How To Pull Codes From EEC-IV In 86- 95 5.0 Mustangs'

Jan 27, 2016

@Noobz347 - The code dump procedure isn't in the sticky - you may want to add it...



Dump the codes: Codes may be present even if the Check Engine Light (CEL) isn't on.

Dumping the computer diagnostic codes on 86-95 Mustangs

Revised 26-July-2011. Added need to make sure the clutch is pressed when dumping codes.

Codes may be present even if the check engine light hasn’t come on, so be sure to check for them.

Here's the way to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for...

• jrichker
• Replies: 3
• Forum: Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech

• 

I don't remember seeing a CEL; I didn't see one on my other '88 but I thought they pulled the bulb since it was carb swapped. I'll have to look at the cluster on this one.

Thanks for the post about the codes. I just ordered a code reader that displays the actual code number. Back in the day I hated counting the damn flashes.

 

[pindude80]

Whats the cap on the oil fill port on the passenger side valve cover? I would also replace the PCV filter/valve as it could be gummed up from sitting so long.

Someone put a chrome oil fill cap on it, is that what you mean?

I do plan on checking the PCV and if I remember right the little mesh filter under the EGR clogs up and causes problems also.

 

[gkomo]

Someone put a chrome oil fill cap on it, is that what you mean?

I do plan on checking the PCV and if I remember right the little mesh filter under the EGR clogs up and causes problems also.

Yes, i was just making sure it wasn't like a breather or something.

 

[pindude80]

I'll take a closer look at it tonight. I think it just presses on and doesn't screw on like a factory cap.

 

[General karthief]

Looks like a breather type oil fill cap, that needs to be replaced with a cap that seals like the stock one.

 

[Noobz347]

New To Me 1988 GT - Running Poorly After Sitting​

Perfect title for a new acquisition. As you go... Change the portion of the title after the hyphen to reflect what you're currently working on.


Example:

New To Me 1988 GT - Drove to 711 and the wheel fell off​

 

[pindude80]

Good suggestion on changing the part of the title after the hypen to reflect what I'm currently working on

 

[pindude80]

I think I have the running poorly part 95% resolved.

I bought a code scanner from Amazon, the one that displays the number of the code. I was getting ready to run the codes but I got to thinking about the timing. I cleaned the balancer, marked the 0 with a white paint pen and fired her up. I pulled the SPOUT chip and checked the timing. They had it at about 15* AFTER TDC! I changed it to about 10* BTDC and it's a night and day difference in idle quality and rev performance.

I also pulled spark plugs for cylinders 1, 4, 5, and 7. They were all pretty black, see pic. I didn't think to check the gap on 1 and 4 but I checked the gap on cylinders 5 and 7, there were at about .055

Before starting it up yesterday I checked the oil and it looked it was at least 2 quarts over full!

The next things on my list are a fuel filter change, oil and filter change, and new plugs gapped at .044 I will also be checking the trans and rear end fluid.

I do have a question about the distributor. I think it is a tooth off. I wanted to set the base timing at 14 degrees. It was tough to get it at 10 degrees. I think the wiring for the TFI is keeping the distributor body from turning far enough to get more than 10 degrees. I posted a picture of the placement of the distributor after I set it at 10* Does the picture tell you if it's a tooth off by where the TFI module is pointing? I think it is a tooth off and if I'm thinking properly it needs to be rotated one tooth counter-clockwise. What do you guys think?

 

[pindude80]

I forgot to mention that I check the PCV. It looked good and rattled when I shook it. I looked at the PCV filter in the lower intake with my mechanic's mirror. It looked good but I will probably change it, or at least take it out and clean it, when I have the upper intake off next.

 

[pindude80]

The spark plugs that are in it are NGK platinum. I want to replace them with copper core plugs, either Motorcraft or Autolite. I've done some searching around and found the Motorcraft plug for the stock cylinder heads is ASF42C. I couldn't find that exact part # but found

Motorcraft ASF42CX. Does anyone know if that is the same plug or what the X at the end is for? The listing also refers to is as part # SP450X​

 

[AeroCoupe]

Bring the motor up to TDC by confirming the piston is at TDC. You can do this by rolling the motor up to TDC according to the balancer and then backing it off 10 degrees or so. Put a small screw driver in the #1 spark plug hole and very slowly roll the motor to TDC. The piston will come up and stop then will stay there (dwell) for a couple of degrees and then start back down. Ideally would be to split the dwell degrees in half and that would be TDC.

At this point install the distributor where the rotor is pointing at the #1 spark plug wire post on the cap. I just mark where the #1 post is on the distributor cap adapter so the cap can be off when stabbing the distributor. You can position the distributor body as you see fit so that you can get enough adjustment for timing the motor.

 

[AeroCoupe]

Are the cylinder heads the stock E7 cast iron units? Asking as this will help with determining a good spark plug for you.

 

[pindude80]

As far as i know they are the factory cylinder heads. I looked to see if they had the GT40 "bars" on them and they don't. Definitely iron heads just not 100% sure they are E7s but I would bet they are.

 

[AeroCoupe]

Motorcraft ASF42C’s gapped at 0.052”.

 

[pindude80]

Making pretty good progress on the car. I changed the oil and filter last night. It needed an oil change badly! I imagine it hadn't been changed since before it was parked so could have been at least 10 years! The oil was very thin and smelled a little like gas. I treated her to some 10W-30 Full Synthetic and a quart of Lucas engine oil treatment.

I also changed the fuel filter. The one that was on the car was a Motorcraft and I couldn't blow through it. It might have even been the factory fuel filter.

When I was under the car I found out it had been undercoated and is pretty dang clean. I did see where someone screwed up the pinch welds under the floor pans pretty good so I will have to address that at some point. I saw that one of the exhaust flow tubes has quite a few small rust holes in it and that is what is giving me the nasty exhaust sound I hear. Not a big deal. I plan on doing the whole exhaust from the cylinder heads to the bumper.

I got the headlights working. Both bulbs were bad! It was kind of bizarre because the filaments looked good in both bulbs. Neither bulb would work on regular or high beam. I had some extras in my bulb collection, popped them in. Now I have headlights.

I am going to pull the wheels and inspect the brakes today and hopefully take it on it's first cruise since I brought it home.

This weekend I would like to pull the distributor, clock it properly, and clean the engine bay. I'm surprised how much oil sludge and residue there is throughout the whole engine compartment and on the front of the engine. I know the valve covers are leaking so I might try to get them done this weekend. I was thinking of washing the engine and engine bay either right before or right after I change the valve cover gaskets.

The question I have for now is about cleaning the engine and engine bay. I was going to take it to a local pay and spray car wash, use the engine cleaner setting and go at it under the hood. I am not going to directly spray the distributor or ignition coil area. Are there any other areas I should avoid spraying directly? I've read on engine cleaning cans to leave the engine running while cleaning. What do you guys think of this? Feel free to share any other engine or engine bay cleaning tips, tricks, recommendations.