New to the Mustang life and community!

Jorogumo4

Member
Jun 15, 2022
26
7
13
Hey guys! I'm new here and plan on posting and reading through here a lot but I've been a bit confused on a few things and have had a hard time figuring out what's what.

I've recently purchased a 1985 Mustang v6 Convertible, but I've had a hard time telling if it's the GT or LX trim? What are the key determining factors for this? When I look up my VIN it says Series: GT,Turbo GT (well I def don't have a turbo). Also what's SN95 and Fox? I've never messed with Mustangs before but I couldn't pass this deal up.

A little about the mustang I found;
I picked it up for $950 from some dude who bought it for $1500, did nothing with it and sold it to me a few months later lol.

When I test drove it, the front left caliper was seized but aside from that, it drove decent. Major vacuum leak when pushing on the brake and a very rough idle. Well, needless to say, because of the seized caliper and the trashed convertible top and the bad vacuum leak, I talked the guy down to $950 and I bought it the next day and towed it to my house. Though shockingly enough, the tow was all it needed to jingle that caliper functional again for whatever reason hahaha.

Over the past month I've been working on it and well, the first thing I replaced was the brake booster and master brake cylinder. After doing that it resolved a huge chunk of issues due to a severe vacuum leak, but it made everything else wrong with it start rearing it's naked ugly head. Thankfully for me though, it wasn't anything too bad or too hard to diagnose. Just a really bad idle for the most part, stalling shortly after cranked, stalling at a stop, stalling if tossed into reverse or drive. As long as you gave it gas though for the most part it was fine. Throttle response was laggy as well and sometimes it just, refused to accelerate any faster.

I ended up buying a OBD1 code reader before continuing with anything and it was spitting out if I remember, code 32. And we all know how these OBD1 code readers are. Just generic area where the issue is. It was telling me the EVP was under the minimum voltage. Well, I moved over to the EGR valve and checked the voltage, it was reading 5v on the dot and from my research, that seemed to be proper. Though sources varied. So instead of replacing the connector I went straight for the EGR valve. That thing was GLUED shut from carbon buildup. I tried cleaning it up and reinstalling it, but unfortunately it just needed to be replaced. Bought a brand new one and tossed it in. Boom, resolved another massive chunk of issues.

Now all that's left is bad loose steering and it still stalls shortly after crank for some reason, it's very weird and I'm not quite sure what the issue is. It'll crank up just fine for the most part, but it'll idle at 500 rpm, start to slowly fall, the computer will try to correct bringing it up to 700rpm, then it'll fall to 400rpm, computer will correct again to 700rpm, then it'll fall to 300rpm, etc etc until it inevitable stalls. Oddly enough, if you give it a rev to 3k rpm and then let it go. It no longer has the idle issue until you shut her off and crank her again.

What I've opted to do is I'm going ahead and replacing the fuel filter? Maybe it's clogged up. Not sure, and my fuel pump is sending proper pressure so I'm not going to replace that yet. I've also gone ahead and replaced my belt, the old one was on RIDICULOUSLY tight. After I swapped the belt that seemed to have fixed a few of my crank issues too as sometimes I'd have a hard time cranking probably due to the stress on the bearings? Not entirely sure, however she oddly enough seems to run a bit better after the new belt getting installed too. Which I never thought I'd see a performance and healthier run just from swapping the belt.

Here soon I'm getting that fuel filter replaced and I'm replacing the inner and outer tie rods as they seem shot and the main cause for my loose steering issues.

Though if replacing my fuel filter doesn't resolve this weird idle issue on crank, any ideas on what it could be? I'm not getting any codes and it doesn't sound like the engine is miss firing or anything. If it was clogged fuel injectors a quick little rev wouldn't resolve that issue right? Also I did run a can of seafoam through the car to help clean things up as well as a fuel additive.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
  • Sponsors (?)


Jorogumo4

Member
Jun 15, 2022
26
7
13
Forgot to add some pictures of the mustang I basically stole. $950, can't believe he sold it to me that cheap.
 

Attachments

  • PXL_20220627_152505896.jpg
    PXL_20220627_152505896.jpg
    313.7 KB · Views: 44
  • PXL_20220627_152518702.jpg
    PXL_20220627_152518702.jpg
    312.5 KB · Views: 44
  • PXL_20220627_152535295.jpg
    PXL_20220627_152535295.jpg
    322.9 KB · Views: 42
  • PXL_20220627_152556122.jpg
    PXL_20220627_152556122.jpg
    333.8 KB · Views: 43
  • PXL_20220627_152613133.jpg
    PXL_20220627_152613133.jpg
    317 KB · Views: 42
  • PXL_20220627_152640501.jpg
    PXL_20220627_152640501.jpg
    355.9 KB · Views: 42
  • PXL_20220627_152739189.jpg
    PXL_20220627_152739189.jpg
    442 KB · Views: 44
  • Like
Reactions: 2 users

Jorogumo4

Member
Jun 15, 2022
26
7
13
That looks like a pretty good car. Very restorable, and body looks solid. Maybe sometime you can get a reasonable paint job depending on your area.
I'll be painting it myself, I have experience doing this as well, it's not too hard just super time consuming. I'll definitely post some pictures of the process once I get that started. Probably going to be doing it here in the next few weeks
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user

Willybill32

But at least it's tight!
Jul 16, 2019
424
199
53
Hey guys! I'm new here and plan on posting and reading through here a lot but I've been a bit confused on a few things and have had a hard time figuring out what's what.

I've recently purchased a 1985 Mustang v6 Convertible, but I've had a hard time telling if it's the GT or LX trim? What are the key determining factors for this? When I look up my VIN it says Series: GT,Turbo GT (well I def don't have a turbo). Also what's SN95 and Fox? I've never messed with Mustangs before but I couldn't pass this deal up.

A little about the mustang I found;
I picked it up for $950 from some dude who bought it for $1500, did nothing with it and sold it to me a few months later lol.

When I test drove it, the front left caliper was seized but aside from that, it drove decent. Major vacuum leak when pushing on the brake and a very rough idle. Well, needless to say, because of the seized caliper and the trashed convertible top and the bad vacuum leak, I talked the guy down to $950 and I bought it the next day and towed it to my house. Though shockingly enough, the tow was all it needed to jingle that caliper functional again for whatever reason hahaha.

Over the past month I've been working on it and well, the first thing I replaced was the brake booster and master brake cylinder. After doing that it resolved a huge chunk of issues due to a severe vacuum leak, but it made everything else wrong with it start rearing it's naked ugly head. Thankfully for me though, it wasn't anything too bad or too hard to diagnose. Just a really bad idle for the most part, stalling shortly after cranked, stalling at a stop, stalling if tossed into reverse or drive. As long as you gave it gas though for the most part it was fine. Throttle response was laggy as well and sometimes it just, refused to accelerate any faster.

I ended up buying a OBD1 code reader before continuing with anything and it was spitting out if I remember, code 32. And we all know how these OBD1 code readers are. Just generic area where the issue is. It was telling me the EVP was under the minimum voltage. Well, I moved over to the EGR valve and checked the voltage, it was reading 5v on the dot and from my research, that seemed to be proper. Though sources varied. So instead of replacing the connector I went straight for the EGR valve. That thing was GLUED shut from carbon buildup. I tried cleaning it up and reinstalling it, but unfortunately it just needed to be replaced. Bought a brand new one and tossed it in. Boom, resolved another massive chunk of issues.

Now all that's left is bad loose steering and it still stalls shortly after crank for some reason, it's very weird and I'm not quite sure what the issue is. It'll crank up just fine for the most part, but it'll idle at 500 rpm, start to slowly fall, the computer will try to correct bringing it up to 700rpm, then it'll fall to 400rpm, computer will correct again to 700rpm, then it'll fall to 300rpm, etc etc until it inevitable stalls. Oddly enough, if you give it a rev to 3k rpm and then let it go. It no longer has the idle issue until you shut her off and crank her again.

What I've opted to do is I'm going ahead and replacing the fuel filter? Maybe it's clogged up. Not sure, and my fuel pump is sending proper pressure so I'm not going to replace that yet. I've also gone ahead and replaced my belt, the old one was on RIDICULOUSLY tight. After I swapped the belt that seemed to have fixed a few of my crank issues too as sometimes I'd have a hard time cranking probably due to the stress on the bearings? Not entirely sure, however she oddly enough seems to run a bit better after the new belt getting installed too. Which I never thought I'd see a performance and healthier run just from swapping the belt.

Here soon I'm getting that fuel filter replaced and I'm replacing the inner and outer tie rods as they seem shot and the main cause for my loose steering issues.

Though if replacing my fuel filter doesn't resolve this weird idle issue on crank, any ideas on what it could be? I'm not getting any codes and it doesn't sound like the engine is miss firing or anything. If it was clogged fuel injectors a quick little rev wouldn't resolve that issue right? Also I did run a can of seafoam through the car to help clean things up as well as a fuel additive.
Welcome to the community! Lots of good info here...

As the General said, it's not a GT, since all GTs had the 5.0 V8. The seats are LX seats, as the GTs had better seats with an adjustable knee bolster.

Fox is the code name for the platform used for '79-'93 Mustangs, as well as Capris, Zephyrs, Fairmonts, etc. SN-95 applies to the '94-'98 Mustangs.

Depending on how long your Mustang sat, you may want to clean out or replace the fuel system.

Bill
 

Jorogumo4

Member
Jun 15, 2022
26
7
13
Welcome to the community! Lots of good info here...

As the General said, it's not a GT, since all GTs had the 5.0 V8. The seats are LX seats, as the GTs had better seats with an adjustable knee bolster.

Fox is the code name for the platform used for '79-'93 Mustangs, as well as Capris, Zephyrs, Fairmonts, etc. SN-95 applies to the '94-'98 Mustangs.

Depending on how long your Mustang sat, you may want to clean out or replace the fuel system.

Bill
Oh okay! Got it, thank you so much for describing the terms for me. Very odd my dash vin is labeled as GT then, I supposed it's a dash that was ripped out of a GT? Not entirely sure, did the GT and LX have different dashes by chance?

I'll be getting that fuel filter replaced this weekend so we'll see if that resolves it. If not yeah, it's gotta be something within the fuel system because I'm getting good air and spark.
 

Willybill32

But at least it's tight!
Jul 16, 2019
424
199
53
Oh okay! Got it, thank you so much for describing the terms for me. Very odd my dash vin is labeled as GT then, I supposed it's a dash that was ripped out of a GT? Not entirely sure, did the GT and LX have different dashes by chance?

I'll be getting that fuel filter replaced this weekend so we'll see if that resolves it. If not yeah, it's gotta be something within the fuel system because I'm getting good air and spark.
Dashes and other interior items the same across the line. Dash clusters slightly different depending on the engine. LX seats were common as well except for the GT models.

These are GT seats.

Bill
 

Attachments

  • 96D36A08-5AA1-4D62-9570-AB4EBCF1D437.jpeg
    96D36A08-5AA1-4D62-9570-AB4EBCF1D437.jpeg
    129.4 KB · Views: 30

slow84lx

clean it good before insertion
Jul 3, 2005
259
110
53
Nice car and great deal on it! Welcome to Stangnet!

Definitely change the fuel filter but it isn't going to help the hanging idle. It's common for a CFI equipped car. Search this site and others for tuning CFI and follow the directions. It is possible to get it working as well as new again but will take good understanding of how that system works to get there.
 

manicmechanic007

5 Year Member
Sep 26, 2017
1,903
537
133
Most Convertibles were V6's
I think they handle better and Ford made few V8's ( I believe ) and I have never seen a 4 pop in one
You be happy with the 3.8 and keep a good front cover gasket on it
Buy a new front cover with an oil pump in it now while you still can
Turbo the car someday and fly past most of the V8's
Have fun
I've owned my 69 since '79 or '80
Never sell it
 

Jorogumo4

Member
Jun 15, 2022
26
7
13
Most Convertibles were V6's
I think they handle better and Ford made few V8's ( I believe ) and I have never seen a 4 pop in one
You be happy with the 3.8 and keep a good front cover gasket on it
Buy a new front cover with an oil pump in it now while you still can
Turbo the car someday and fly past most of the V8's
Have fun
I've owned my 69 since '79 or '80
Never sell it
What's the front cover gasket? Like a timing gasket set?