nitrous, is this everything i need?

bill302 · May 10, 2006

this is what i got so far for my nitrous install i think i got everything. and i talked to a tech at compucar and even though i bought it used everything has a lifetime warranty.i think its a pretty good deal i already have a 190 lph fuel pump but the tech said there kit is set up for stock mustangs and a pump upgrade is'nt necessary until you go over the 125 horse power nozzle but he said to run 1 step colder plugs and take timing down 2 degrees the stock setting is 10* so should i run at 8*?oh and since i live in alabama to remove tank from trunk during summer months. did i cover everything or do i need to know or do anything else? i'm just waiting on the postman to deliver....total $575.00

Compucar Wet Nitrous Kit for Mustang 4.6 or 5.0 contains One 10 lb. bottle, main line, fuel line and rail fitting, 1 NOS solenoid w/line, 1 fuel Solenoid w/line, 1 purge solenoid, 1 pressure gauge, 1 wot switch (never used), misc. jets (50, 90, 125 hp), fogger nossel, on/off switch, purge button, purge tubing(to exit through cowl), tie wraps, connectors, and bottle brackets.

RPM Activated Switch with 3000 and 5000 series module.

NITROUS EXPRESS BOTTLE WARMER.

autolite sparkplugs #24.

Brand new CAM billet anodized blue Adjustable fuel pressure regulator and New Era Performance fuel pressure guage with necessary fittings to install for 94-97 Ford mustang GT and Cobra . This liquid filled guage reads 0-100 psi and is accurate +/- 2 % . CAM 94-97 Mustang Adjustable Fuel Regulator. All billet aluminum and adjustable from 30 to 100 psi. The only regulator available with 2 o-rings internally, so they will never leak

bill302 · May 10, 2006

oh ya i will also have to remove my Jet chip and sell it pm me if interested View attachment 470864

Bad92GT · May 10, 2006

no 8* run 10*.. stock 5.0s were under timed.. it really belonged at 12*(non juiced) so run stock which is 10*

RYC CUKR · May 10, 2006

Ironman92GT said:
no 8* run 10*.. stock 5.0s were under timed.. it really belonged at 12*(non juiced) so run stock which is 10*

Some of the SN95s do not like to have the timing advanced. I have several friends that can't advance past 10* or it starts pinging. When I retard the timing on my 93 I retard 2* for each 50hp increase from my NA tune. So since I usually run 14* NA and have a 100 shot it gets dropped to 10* at the track.

Looks like you have pretty much everything the only thing that you might want is a fuel pressure safety switch. It will turn the nitrous off if your pressure drops below a set PSI.

Other than that it looks like a pretty complete set up. You might want to check out the nitrous forum over at the corral. Just for nitrous and some pretty knowledgable guys in there.

Its a hell of a lot of fun and very, very addictive. I went from 14.0@100 to 12.72@109.11 with a 100 shot.

Also when you put the new plugs in gap them at around .035-.038". I had mine at the stock gaps and it would miss some on the top end cause the cylinder pressure was blowing the spark out.

bill302 · May 11, 2006

Ironman92GT
no 8* run 10*.. stock 5.0s were under timed.. it really belonged at 12*(non juiced) so run stock which is 10*
__________________

RYC CUKR said:
Some of the SN95s do not like to have the timing advanced. I have several friends that can't advance past 10* or it starts pinging. When I retard the timing on my 93 I retard 2* for each 50hp increase from my NA tune. So since I usually run 14* NA and have a 100 shot it gets dropped to 10* at the track.

Looks like you have pretty much everything the only thing that you might want is a fuel pressure safety switch. It will turn the nitrous off if your pressure drops below a set PSI.

Other than that it looks like a pretty complete set up. You might want to check out the nitrous forum over at the corral. Just for nitrous and some pretty knowledgable guys in there.

Its a hell of a lot of fun and very, very addictive. I went from 14.0@100 to 12.72@109.11 with a 100 shot.

Also when you put the new plugs in gap them at around .035-.038". I had mine at the stock gaps and it would miss some on the top end cause the cylinder pressure was blowing the spark out.

thanks ya'll the info. is very helpful...

nvrenuff · May 11, 2006

Looks like you have pretty much everything the only thing that you might want is a fuel pressure safety switch. It will turn the nitrous off if your pressure drops below a set PSI.

*2. for $30, it a no brainer to get an adjustable low fuel pressure switch, wire it in series with your rpm window switch

rd · May 11, 2006

I'd start at 8 deg on timing, and check it run by run. I'm carbed, but I pulled the timing back to 6 deg, and have the best runs ever on the car. Start at 6 or 8, try it, go up, try and check, etc.

If you want to go on a track that techs to the book, you need a bottle relief valve vent line that discharges overboard. Must be metal hard line or braided. If braided, it has to go through a bulkhead fitting or similar where it exits the car. New, for NHRA this year.

You must have metal bottle brackets this year. New, per NHRA.

I bought a spare bottle, from the Compucar guys at FFW Orlando, good deal.

Make sure you have matching bottle fittings on all of your bottles. NOS, Compucar, etc, have sold several types of valves, etc, over the years.

I bought a bottle heater. Even in SC, in the spring and fall, you have to heat the bottle. I refuse to use a torch on an aluminum compressed gas cylinder. Might as well shoot yourself instead. I don't care what others do, but I won't stand there when they do it.

Compucar has great tech help, supports FFW. I went NOS because they were also excellent and had a shorter carb plate.

bill302 · May 11, 2006

nvrenuff said:
*2. for $30, it a no brainer to get an adjustable low fuel pressure switch, wire it in series with your rpm window switch

i just got one. thanks...

nitrous, is this everything i need?

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