Oil leak location help

1lugloose · Apr 28, 2012

Video of leak:

I've got a pretty serious leak while the car is running. Not sure if its a pressure sending unit or the filter bracket or the oil pump or pan gasket. I was thinking of trying a new pan and gasket, but heard that even though I have a K member, I'll need to drop out the suspension or lift the motor to get it done.

Problem is, I have limited tools, and of course I can't work on the car at my apartment, and the only buddy I have whose place I can work on it doesn't have a level driveway so jacking the car can be a pain.

I'm hoping someone can shed some light on the best way for me go about this and how much I'll have to spend.

wmburns · Apr 28, 2012

On the video I saw a drop falling from the oil filter. Consider starting with the easy stuff. Double check that there isn't two oil filter O-rings.

Next look at the block to oil filter adapter gasket.

1lugloose · Apr 28, 2012

wmburns said:
On the video I saw a drop falling from the oil filter. Consider starting with the easy stuff. Double check that there isn't two oil filter O-rings.

Next look at the block to oil filter adapter gasket.

Yeah I've made that mistake before on an Escort I had in high school. Have always been paranoid about that since, so I always double check that. The leak is definitely coming from somewhere near or above the filter and has progressively gotten worse in the last 4 months. I go through about a half quart per 200 miles, so it's getting pretty nasty.

By the oil filter adapter gasket, are you referring to the the o-ring on where you thread the filter to the bracket or the actual gasket between the block and the bracket that the filter is threaded onto? Can I buy the UV dye to help locate the leak? And can I get any of this off with just hand tools and a floor jack and jack-stands?

I probably need to get it to a shop, being that I don't have the tools to get the motor up to remove the oil pan and I only have hand tools, though I do have the UPR K member which I've heard does make getting the pan off easier, though I'm not sure that's the source.

I've also got another thread about some tire and suspension issues. So the car is in some need right now, and the question is will buying all the tools I need to do this still be cheaper than just paying for the labor. I'm at a hobbyist level of wrenching with my current fiscal situation, and I know sometimes it's better to just admit I don't know and pay a pro to do it right, rather than teach myself, with the help of these forums (which has always worked beautifully with previous repairs).

If you lived check-to-check in a Los Angeles apartment, so no level work space, what would you do? What do you think I can expect to pay if I take it to a shop and should I take it to a mustang specific/friendly shop or would you let just about any trustworthy mechanic do the job?

blkstanger · Apr 29, 2012

Oil filter adapters are known for leaks. You don't need to drop the pan. It's bolted to the side of the block. It could be the oil pressure sending unit too. I have seen those crack before.

1lugloose · Apr 29, 2012

New Leak Video with car at rest:

Interestingly enough, after driving to work, and idling in my slight uphill parking space, nothing was dripping like yesterday when the car was idling cold and on the flat drive way of my apartment. The leak showed up though within seconds of turning the car off though, so maybe I just didn't wait long enough.

blkstanger said:
Oil filter adapters are known for leaks. You don't need to drop the pan. It's bolted to the side of the block. It could be the oil pressure sending unit too. I have seen those crack before.

That definitely sounds enouraging. I really haven't been able to pin point the leak yet, as I would prefer, but by the sounds of things, that adapter could be pretty easy to remove, check, and reinstall. The question is, what should I plan on having on hand to do the repair or at least put the damn thing back together (besides obvious oil change supplies). Again, I only have hand tools and jack stands, but I've been pretty successful with just those tools in most situations of the past.

If the oil filter adapter is the source of the leak, is it most likely cracked and needs entire replacement, or could it be a bad gasket? Is the gasket specifically made or is it just high temp sealant? I'm guessing the pressure sending unit crack you're referring to would necessitate a replacement PSU, correct? I suppose I should also check those threads in the process.

Maxpowers · Apr 29, 2012

Use gravity to your benefit. Keep cleaning up the oil running down until you track it up and where it's coming from. Possibly get a jack and some stands so you can get under there when it's running. Just don't do it alone.

I hate to say this, but it looks like you may have gotten the shaft with this car man.

1lugloose · Apr 29, 2012

Maxpowers said:
Use gravity to your benefit. Keep cleaning up the oil running down until you track it up and where it's coming from. Possibly get a jack and some stands so you can get under there when it's running. Just don't do it alone.

I'll try that when I get ready to go home.

Maxpowers said:
I hate to say this, but it looks like you may have gotten the shaft with this car man.

I got it for well under book value, and yeah, I definitely kind of regret buying a car with mods installed, but it was more than I could afford to put on the car, so I figured I might as well enter the world of project car hell. They all just need good homes, right? Plus, I was kind of forced into making a quick decision by the insurance agency who declared my previous vehicle a total loss, and then didn't tell me how long or when I should start looking for a car (my first accident). I really don't mind it, except for my lack of tools and ty job (both of which, I'm trying to do better). The only alternative is to sell it off to some other person, and I don't know if I could even get 5 grand if I was as honest as I'd like to be.

It may be against the better judgment of most others, but to me, having something to work on, is most always better than not. Seeing as the majority of good aftermarket replacement parts for this car are as much if not just slightly more than the Ford or Motorcraft parts, I figured there couldn't be a worse car to take on as a potential project car. And this way, it keeps me especially motivated to drive safe, and work hard to do better. It's all a bit metaphorical in a philosophical sense, if you will.

And besides, you always learn more when you encounter mistakes, be them yours, or others. As long as you learn from them, you're coming out on top. That is, as long as I keep my sanity along the way, but maybe that's already lost based off of my justifications.

1lugloose · Apr 29, 2012

Fresh leak video: Found where I'm losing coolant from too (and the headache grows)
Car relatively cold and resting, jacked for better camera accesibility (running vid later)

By the looks of it, I need to remove both the coolant bracket and the oil filter adapter to adress my leaks. With the oil all over the filter adapter mount, I'm thinking I need to fix the seal there, whatever the issue is. Same thing with the coolant (inlet/outlet?) bracket there.

wmburns · Apr 30, 2012

FWIIW, if the block to oil filter adapter gasket is leaking, it makes sense for coolant to leak as well. The same gasket holds back both fluids.

This is what the gasket looks like:

Fel-Pro - Engine Oil Filter Adapter Gasket
Part # 70801

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/FEL0/70801/04117.oap?year=2003&make=Ford&model=Mustang&vi=1415089&ck=Search_engine oil filter adapter gasket_1415089_1193&keyword=engine oil filter adapter gasket

It's not hard to change other than the fact the cooling system and oil will need to be drained BEFORE starting work. Remove the oil filter and coolant hose to gain access.

1lugloose · Apr 30, 2012

Yup, thats the ticket. $110 for the total job. Doing it this afternoon.

blkstanger · Apr 30, 2012

Let us know how it goes.

1lugloose · May 1, 2012

So, yesterday I got all my stuff set up and tore into it. It's basically a glorified oil change and coolant flush as both flow through the separate sections of the filter adapter. And you technically can do it without even having to do those two. Started off with the usual oil change procedure. Drained the oil and removed the filter covering the oil filter area with a rag, then set up my bucket for catching the coolant. Started with the drain plug on the passenger bottom side of the radiator. Then moved over to the lower hose and worked the hose clamps off and removed it from the radiator (lower side) first, to drain coolant out of the filter adapter I was about to remove, then disconnecting the top side to remove it from the filter adapter. Still made a bit of a mess, but that's what you get for not having a creeper and smooth level ground. Four 13mm bolts later, and the filter adapter is easily worked out, past my UPR K-member (which is probably contributing to some ease of access here) and into my hands. Cleaned up both surfaces with a good gasket scraper, wiped em down, and went to work reinstalling it. My gasket was snug around the threads of the bolts, which is nice for not having to worry about the bolts falling in your face, but made it a bit tricky to find and feel the threads of the holes. With some patience, I got em all in nice and smooth, and snugged up each bolt bit by bit in a rotating pattern. Hose on, knuckles busted over hose clamps and no channel locks to do the job, filter on, and refilled with fluids (lost about 2 gallons of coolant, put two back in), and started the car. No leaks. Test drive later to help burp the car, and no leaks. Haven't checked the car yet this morning, but I'm pretty confident based on my other videos on you tube that I definitely got the leak.

Took about an hour and half and whatever the cost of the oil change and coolant is.

Of slight concern though, was the coolant side on the filter adapters block face. It looked almost corroded or chipped (maybe poor casting?) on the area inside the gaskets seal. Being that the gasket sealed outside of this though, I figured it was ok to keep using, being as the filter adapter is $485 part from Ford, and the gasket is $12.

joshjwc9 · May 1, 2012

The corrosion could simply be someone using tap water to top the coolant off. Tap water is rough on all parts in the cooling system.

blkstanger · May 1, 2012

Glad to hear you got it fixed.

tech0925 · Mar 3, 2013

First I wanted to say thanks to 1lugloose for his post. I had the same problem with my 2000 Mustang GT today.

I could clearly see oil and even coolant dripping from the oil filter housing. Also my oil pan was obviously covered in oil as well. I am hoping the oil pan seal is fine and it was just blow back from the leaking oil filter housing seal.

Total parts costs: $65.00 (That's including the Oil Filter Adapter Gasket, Engine Oil and Oil Filter, shop towels, and the coolant for the radiator.

Approx time: 5 hours (That was taking it nice and slow to ensure everything went well and cleaning as much of the old oil off of the bottom of the car.)

Here were my steps:

1. Removed the radiator and oil filter caps.

2. Drained the oil and removed the oil filter. I went ahead and placed the oil pan drain bolt back in so I wouldn't forget.

3. Drained the radiator coolant via the plastic plug on the bottom passenger side of the radiator.

4. Removed the radiator hose from the bottom driver side of the radiator that runs directly to the oil filter housing. (This hose has three connections)

5. Removed the four 13mm bolts from the oil filter housing.

6. Removed the oil pressure sensor from the oil filter housing. ( I assume that is what it is called. In my case it was so oily that I could not get the clip off so I had to unscrew the entire sensor.

7. Next I took some fine sandpaper and cleaned the oil filter housing and where it mounts to the block to remove what was remaining of the old seal after removing it.

8. At this point I was able to un clip the sensor.

9. I cleaned the sensor threads and sensor clip and then tightened it back down onto the oil filter housing.

10. I carefully placed the gasket back onto the housing. I was not as lucky as my bolts kept falling out while trying to align it back to the block.

11. Counter Clockwise I hand tightened each bolt. I then applied some more pressure to all four bolts. Finally I made one more round completely tightening down all four bolts.

12. I hooked the radiator hose back up to all three connections.

13. Screwed on the new oil filter.

14. Inserted 5 qts of oil.

15. Inserted the coolant and topped it off with water.

16. Finally, the moment I was waiting for, I started the car and crossed my fingers lol.

I let it run for a good 15 minutes while watching the radiator coolant and the dashboard gauges. Finally I peeked underneath the car and the oil filter housing was completely free of new oil

I hope this helps someone else!! I'll check again in the morning to make sure there are no leaks.

P.S. While underneath the car I used a 10mm ratchet and snugged down the oil pan bolts in hopes that if there was a leak there as well it may stop it.

TmanGT · Mar 1, 2015

tech0925 said:
First I wanted to say thanks to 1lugloose for his post. I had the same problem with my 2000 Mustang GT today.

I could clearly see oil and even coolant dripping from the oil filter housing. Also my oil pan was obviously covered in oil as well. I am hoping the oil pan seal is fine and it was just blow back from the leaking oil filter housing seal.

Total parts costs: $65.00 (That's including the Oil Filter Adapter Gasket, Engine Oil and Oil Filter, shop towels, and the coolant for the radiator.

Approx time: 5 hours (That was taking it nice and slow to ensure everything went well and cleaning as much of the old oil off of the bottom of the car.)

Here were my steps:

1. Removed the radiator and oil filter caps.

2. Drained the oil and removed the oil filter. I went ahead and placed the oil pan drain bolt back in so I wouldn't forget.

3. Drained the radiator coolant via the plastic plug on the bottom passenger side of the radiator.

4. Removed the radiator hose from the bottom driver side of the radiator that runs directly to the oil filter housing. (This hose has three connections)

5. Removed the four 13mm bolts from the oil filter housing.

6. Removed the oil pressure sensor from the oil filter housing. ( I assume that is what it is called. In my case it was so oily that I could not get the clip off so I had to unscrew the entire sensor.

7. Next I took some fine sandpaper and cleaned the oil filter housing and where it mounts to the block to remove what was remaining of the old seal after removing it.

8. At this point I was able to un clip the sensor.

9. I cleaned the sensor threads and sensor clip and then tightened it back down onto the oil filter housing.

10. I carefully placed the gasket back onto the housing. I was not as lucky as my bolts kept falling out while trying to align it back to the block.

11. Counter Clockwise I hand tightened each bolt. I then applied some more pressure to all four bolts. Finally I made one more round completely tightening down all four bolts.

12. I hooked the radiator hose back up to all three connections.

13. Screwed on the new oil filter.

14. Inserted 5 qts of oil.

15. Inserted the coolant and topped it off with water.

16. Finally, the moment I was waiting for, I started the car and crossed my fingers lol.

I let it run for a good 15 minutes while watching the radiator coolant and the dashboard gauges. Finally I peeked underneath the car and the oil filter housing was completely free of new oil

I hope this helps someone else!! I'll check again in the morning to make sure there are no leaks.

P.S. While underneath the car I used a 10mm ratchet and snugged down the oil pan bolts in hopes that if there was a leak there as well it may stop it.

Everything word for word went smoothly. I came across this thread after I replaced my gasket. Took me 5 hours had trouble putting that hose clamp back on the oil filter adapter side little room to work took a 45min to a hour just trying to slide the clamp back into position.

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