I figured lol, how high do u have to take the 302 to get it off? what all has to be unbolted off these engines to jack them up, im guessing motormounts, headers, maybe trans depending on how high it needs to go, and maybe a few wires
what am i missing? its kind of hard for me to think about this without looking at the car
Best thing to do is unhook the 2 motor mounts and the trans mount and jack the engine up until you hit firewall (do be careful not to squish things ) be sure you have the car as high as you can safely manage on jackstands cause you will need the room. You won't be able to get the pan completely out even with the motor jacked all the way up but it will drop down plenty far that you can kinda work inside it w/out any real problems. Definitely a much easier job with the motor out but no sense in pulling one just for an oil pan gasket. Heh its no fun but not the worst, I've done a few driveway oil pump swaps and it never took more than 3 or 4 hours max.
**Honestly other than the motor/trans mounts I don't remember disconnecting anything else aside from maybe the cold air intake, just keep an eye all around the pinch points when your jacking it up. This is definitely a job where some extra eyes would help you out alot.
I helped out a buddy of mine do his on his 87 notch... he ended up being able to pull the pan out by just unbolting the exhaust at the headers, engnie mounts, and he also removed the radiator hoses. you may have to unbolt the trans mount as well as the drive shaft. He jacked the motor up until the crank pulley was up to the radiator, and the intake manifold was agianst the firewall. we had to pull the pan becuase that was what was leaking (rusted straight through, no lies). When we got her all put back together, the car ran like crap and wouldnt revv up. turns out the intake manifold pushed up agianst the MAP sensor and broke off the nipple for the vaccumm line. after a new map sensor, she ran like the raped ape she really was. Just keep a look out at the pinch points and make sure that you arent stretching anything.
~darren
Been there, done that - You can do it in the car, but it is hard to do. The best way is to pull the engine.
Disconnect the battery at the battery ground terminal, remove the fan and fan shroud. Both motor mounts will need to have the large nuts that secure them to the frame removed. The trans mount will also have to be loosened, and it is a good idea to remove the drive shaft.
I also had to disconnect the cat pipes at the headers to get the engine high enough to remove the oil pan. Be prepared to have to drop the steering rack and disconnect the steering shaft. Jack up the engine with a wood block under the oil pan and watch for things that bind or hoses/electrical wiring that may need to be disconnected. I put a couple of wood blocks between the headers and the frame to support the engine. You will likely need to jack up the rear of the transmission as well to get the required clearance.
Scrape the pan mating surfaces clean as possible - old gasket stuck to the surfaces are a source of leaks.
There is a one piece oil pan gasket which will help re-assembly if you can find it. If you can't get this gasket, use weather strip adhesive to secure the cork gasket to the pan rails and the rubber strips to the bearing caps. Use lots of Acetone or MEK to clean the gasket surfaces so the weather strip adhesive will stick good. Read the instructions on the adhesive carefully to make sure the gaskets are permanently stuck in place and won't move when you slide the pan in place. Use lots of blue silicone sealer on top of the front and rear rubber seals where they mate with the pan.
Fill with oil, replace the filter. Reconnect the battery, switch the ignition on to enable the gages, but DON'T crank the car. Remove the distributor and use a 1/4" hex socket to turn the pump counter clock wise (same direction as distributor rotation) until you see oil pressure (an external gage is a great help long about now). And keep turning for about 30 sec after you see the pressure come up. A reversible drill is the best tool to use to turn the 1/4" socket. The pressure should come up to about 50-80psi with cold oil. Once you see good pressure, check for obvious leaks, and then and only then, lower everything back into place and bolt down the mounts and anything else you had to take loose.
Re-install the distributor and set the timing with the engine running using timing light (don't forget to disconnect the SPOUT plug and reconnect it when finished) 12-14 degrees BDC is good. Start up and check for leaks, let it warm up and look again for leaks. It took me 2 days plus, but I am old and slow, maybe your granny is faster.