89ripper
Founding Member
Fox Planning on building my foxbody and was wondering if I can get any tips or anything to watch out for!
- Thread starter Angelq1028
- Start date
-
Sponsors (?)
Tmoss Porting
tmoss.efidynotuning.com
At the very bottom contact info
Pretty sure all those old links to porting are D-E-D dead.
Just so that you know... Our OT sections are bot free (in case that knowledge comes in handy one day).
Sounds good. If your sticking to the 302, rule of thumb is 3.55 rear end gears for a standard and 3.73's for AOD's.
I've heard of guys going fast with a 5spd and 4.10's. But they were the daring few to do 5 grand hole shots. One guy was from here years ago, fromI always heard 3:73’s for a t5 and 4:10’s for an aod
Canada.
Not sure if he's on here any more.Tmoss was an older gentleman with a 5.0 in a Volvo SW. I bought the intake off him. There was also a guy on here that sold worked stock 5.0 heads. He took a lot of metal off of them. Gave them a triple angle vavle job and put HD springs in them. Name was Thumper. He sold a lot of them on this site. Thumper heads.Tmoss Porting
At the very bottom contact info
Yeah Tom’s son is doing all the porting now. Same quality and his dad passed the knowledge down.
Tom ported a Cobra upper and lower for me 20 years ago and it made a huge difference.
Tom ported a Cobra upper and lower for me 20 years ago and it made a huge difference.
Hey guys been on hold with the project but got some good news! N41 is coming in tomorrow with some trick flow lifters as well as a accel distributor (mainly for the steel gear but thought might as well upgrade it) I have a 6al2 msd system and I think it should be compatible if not please let me know! I currently have taken apart the top end and got all the rockers off just need to driver side bracket then the heads should be able to come off! I want to pull the engine but aren’t to sure how I’m gonna do it since I don’t think I’d have enough space to pull the tranny as well is it possible to pull it and leave the tranny in? I also have a diff that I got off market place a couple months back is this still good to run? It kind of looks like the pinion was a bit to close to the carrier I don’t think much of it but want to be 100%.
Also any tips on the whole install process for the whole top end and cam it’d for sure be a lot easier if I pull the motor, I have a cherry picker but I’m clueless on how to use this thing. Any sort of reply is appreciated thank yall very much!
Also any tips on the whole install process for the whole top end and cam it’d for sure be a lot easier if I pull the motor, I have a cherry picker but I’m clueless on how to use this thing. Any sort of reply is appreciated thank yall very much!
Attachments
You can totally do it all with the engine in the car...that's typically the prefered way unless you want to do a complete reseal or mess with the bottom end too.
You also don't have to yank the trans with the engine either.
You also don't have to yank the trans with the engine either.
I did the whole top end of my engine with it still in the car, including the camshaft. If you still have AC and it's in good working order that might make it a bit tougher with the condenser still in the car, but for mine without AC at the time once the radiator was out it was easy and I had plenty of room to swap the cam.
Yeah I decided to just leave it in and fish the oil pan gasket around the pick up tube!
Im currently doing it this way the AC was discharged and the clutch was taken off so I just unhooked everything and took the condenser out! I also ordered a smaller belt to delete the smog pump I’m currently working but man I’m excited to get home and drop the pan a bit to take the timing cover off! Would I be good to just match the 2 sprockets dot to dot? Also I noticed my harmonic balancer doesn’t have a white mark for the timing but it does have a groove cut out in a line would that be for weight or could that possibly be the mark?
A stock balancer will have hash marks and tiny numbers with 0* marked and again 10+* with little hash marks in between. There is also 10* ATDC but goes no higher IIRC, that, of course is the wrong way, most times the stock balancer is covered in crud and may be difficult to find, I always line up 0* on the pointer, make sure #1 piston is at TDC (or damn close) with pointer then disassemble, oh, and you'll have a ton of fun snaking an oil pan gasket on without pulling the engine, it can be done but I'd pull the engine, leave the trans in, I just did it on the Junk Pyle, pretty much by myself.
Try a rag with some WD40 on it and wipe the outer face of the balancer. If you still cannot see the marks then get a wire brush and clean up the outer face (may have to wipe it down with the WD40 soaked rag as you go) you should see the marks. When you see the marks then clean up the outer face with some brake cleaner on a clean rag. Let that dry and then use some white paint (paint pen works best) and mark "0" and "10" BTC.
Factyory timing with the spout connector out is 10 BTC. Most set it at 14 BTC but that is a preference thing.
Factyory timing with the spout connector out is 10 BTC. Most set it at 14 BTC but that is a preference thing.
Similar threads
