Problems Starting.....Update

Steve2kGT · Feb 19, 2004

Still can't get my cobra to start. Here is what it is doing. It is turning the engine (you can see the pulleys moving when you try to start). I just hooked up a timing light to one of the plug wires and can see the light flashing so I know it's getting spark. I also tried one of the wires off of the other coil pack. Now I didn't check ALL wires, but I'm assuming we're ok. So I've got engine turning, got spark, I guess I don't have fuel??

How do I test whether the fuel pump is working, or if the fuel filter is clogged or something...or any other ideas guys?

By the way, I also bought a code scanner, and when I tried to pull codes, it came back with ALL OK. Didn't return any error codes.

Thanks for the help!

Tat98Cobra · Feb 19, 2004

Steve2kGT said:
Still can't get my cobra to start. Here is what it is doing. It is turning the engine (you can see the pulleys moving when you try to start). I just hooked up a timing light to one of the plug wires and can see the light flashing so I know it's getting spark. I also tried one of the wires off of the other coil pack. Now I didn't check ALL wires, but I'm assuming we're ok. So I've got engine turning, got spark, I guess I don't have fuel??

How do I test whether the fuel pump is working, or if the fuel filter is clogged or something...or any other ideas guys?

By the way, I also bought a code scanner, and when I tried to pull codes, it came back with ALL OK. Didn't return any error codes.

Thanks for the help!

You should hear a whine sound coming from the fuel tank when you turn the key in the on position. If you dont, I believe there is a reset button in the trunk - or your fuel pump could be toast, but thats pretty rare. You could also put a regulator guage on and test for key on pressure. Are there any other mods done to this car? when did it start to - not start?

peace

peace

DirtySanchez · Feb 19, 2004

Tat98Cobra said:
I believe there is a reset button in the trunk

There's an intertia switch on the rear driver's side of the trunk. It's designed to cut off fuel in the event of an impact. If it's been set off, the red button will be popped out. Push it back in to restart the pump.

Lsredy2kstang · Feb 19, 2004

Sanchez is correct about the fuel switch. But like he has stated, if there was no spinning, or impact I would doubt that would be the key.

If you cannot hear the fuel pump activating, go the old route, just keep cranking with the gas pedal down and intentionally flood the thing. Smell gas, well the pump is working, don't and there is your problem.

I drove a car to the brake shop to get new brakes one day, they tried to start her to get her off the ramp guess what, pump died. So they can and will die at the most important time. Good luck.

Tat98Cobra · Feb 20, 2004

LsRedy2Kstang said:
Sanchez is correct about the fuel switch. But like he has stated, if there was no spinning, or impact I would doubt that would be the key.

If you cannot hear the fuel pump activating, go the old route, just keep cranking with the gas pedal down and intentionally flood the thing. Smell gas, well the pump is working, don't and there is your problem.

I drove a car to the brake shop to get new brakes one day, they tried to start her to get her off the ramp guess what, pump died. So they can and will die at the most important time. Good luck.

Starting our cars with the pedal down shuts off the injectors - so the old school way of flooding will not work...

peace

Lsredy2kstang · Feb 20, 2004

Well, see I did not know that. You should be able to see if there is any voltage coming off the pump at the plug by the tank then. If it is not sending any voltage the pump may be gone.

See, they say you should learn something daily and I did!

Steve2kGT · Feb 20, 2004

I will check the fuel shutoff button in the trunk. There are no mods except for the exhaust.

Everything was working just fine until that morning. Now, when I first turn the key to the on position I can hear a little high pitched whine (I'm assuming in the fuel pump.) I will check the voltage like you said, and see, as well as checking the fuel pressure to see.

Now, even though I hear the fuel pump, could it still be bad?

Steve2kGT · Feb 20, 2004

I just replied..but it didn't take. I will try again.

I checked the fuel shutoff switch in the trunk. It was fine. I then cranked it over several times, then checked the pressure at the shrader valve. No pressure. So now what? The weird thing is I do hear the whine what I assume is the fuel pump when I switch to on.. any ideas to try now?

Steve2kGT · Feb 20, 2004

I will work on it again tomorrow. I'm going to first see if I'm getting fuel BEFORE the fuel pressure regulator. If no fuel, then I'll check to see if I have a clogged fuel filter (doubt it). Then obviously the culprit would be the fuel pump...right?

I'll post my findings tomorrow (Hopefully it is just the pressure regulator)

sirhisss · Feb 20, 2004

If you hear the pump whine then it can be assumed it is getting voltage.

When you checked the pressure you only need to turn the key on. You should get 30 to 35 lbs at the Shrader valve. Do NOT turn the motor over. The fuel pump is only on momentarily. When you crank the motor the pump actually is shut off untill the key is back in the run position. When you start a fuel injected motor there should be no need to depress the throttle during initial start.

If your pressure is low or nill, I would replace fuel filter first. If you haven't replaced fuel filter recently then I'd replace it just because. It most likely needs to be changed.

Steve2kGT · Feb 21, 2004

OK. Here's the latest. I pulled off the fuel pressure regulator and attached a hose to the inlet, I was getting plenty of pressure...

After the regulator of course no pressure as I previously posted. So I was excited. The regulator had gone bad. So I bought a new one, installed it. Turned the key to the on position, then checked shrader valve..definite pressure now. Problem fixed?? Nope. Still won't start. By this time the battery was getting pretty wasted...it was an old battery too, so I opted for a new battery. Still doesn't work.

So basically I have fuel pressure, have spark, have good battery. Still don't know if computer is good. I bought one of those innova engien code scanners, and the strange thing is I got a "0" on it showing nothing wrong. So I decided to pull stuff. I pulled the plug on the MAF and throttle position sensor, tried to start...of course it wouldn't. Went to pull codes...no codes to pull???

Then just to make sure my reader was working, I went and pulled the same stuff on my yukon, plugged the reader in, and it showed the proper codes.

Also, there are a bunch of sensors that it gets readings from on that code reader, and with the yukon, after running a read, it will show the sensors not blinking as well as the word "done". Now on the cobra, I get the blinking sensors, but no "done."

SO I'm thinking because I get no codes tripped even when I should, the computer must be bad...because nothing else makes sense.

I also tried the same test on a 98 gt, and the flashing sensors stopped after the read with the word "done".

I called a dealer...they want $349 for the computer with core. Any other sources to get it cheaper??

Steve2kGT · Feb 24, 2004

Problem has been resolved. Had to take it to the dealer but at least it's fixed now. For sure I had a bad fuel pressure regulator. When I had tested it, I had full pressure before the regulator, and no pressure after it at the shrader valve. It turns out that, according to the mechanic, it was flooded, and he had to push the pedal to the floor (to close off the injectors according to him) and then start the car. I was there when he did it, and as it was turning over, you could hear it slowly start to pick up in volume and start...puff of smoke out the back..

Then, unfortunately, I tripped an O2 sensor code. I then drove it out of there, and noticed I had an exhaust leak (from when I was replacing the starter and took the h-pipe off)

So I went to an exhaust shop..They were going to tighten it up for free, but then noticed I cross-threaded one of the manifold bolts!!!

So there went another $80 to fix that..

oh and the dealer charged me $119 for that "service".

At least I have my car back now...

Problems Starting.....Update

Steve2kGT

Tat98Cobra

DirtySanchez

Lsredy2kstang

Look, I'm special, dammit

Tat98Cobra

Lsredy2kstang

Look, I'm special, dammit

Steve2kGT

Steve2kGT

Steve2kGT

sirhisss

Steve2kGT

Steve2kGT

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