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  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech

Procharger install help. NEED PICS!!!!

  • Thread starter Thread starter JBushman73
  • Start date Start date May 27, 2006

JBushman73

Founding Member
Aug 29, 2001
172
0
0
Roanoke, VA
May 27, 2006
#1
  • May 27, 2006
  • #1
HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Got the S/C last night. Got up early to install and I had a he$l of a time. I ended up putting the car back together without the S/C. I have a P1SC-1.
04 GT.

Bolted the bracket to the S/C. Then the fun part came. Two problems:

1) The S/C appeared to be WAY too close to the alternator and pulley.
Maybe the S/C bracket's holes were not drilled in the correct place.

2) I got the lower bracket bolted in place. The upper hole that bolts to the alternator I had issues with. The spacer is darn near impossible to get with my skinny fingers in to get lined up. The spacer can be adjusted to line up with the bracket hole. Problem is, I can't really line it up until I have the S/C in place. Then I'm SOL when it comes to getting the spacer torqued down due to not having any room.

Can one of you guys with a procharger take some pics of your set up?

If ther is a way to take pics of the 3 places in the bracket that it bolts to the motor would GREATLY be appreciated.

I'll try to upload pics of what I need if possible.

Thanks.
 

cracula69

Founding Member
Aug 11, 2002
425
0
0
Stamford, CT
Jun 2, 2006
#2
  • Jun 2, 2006
  • #2
I've got the same setup & will take some pics for ya once I find my camera. In the mean time plan on dremmeling off that section of your alternator which is contacting (or very close to) the supercharger pulley. Before you even bolt this on make sure you have the newer style tensioner (old style has aluminum arm new has steel arm). Order it if you dont have it.
 
E

El Diablo

Member
Aug 1, 2004
53
0
6
Jun 3, 2006
#3
  • Jun 3, 2006
  • #3
here's a pic of my 2001 gt, hope it helps!

 

JBushman73

Founding Member
Aug 29, 2001
172
0
0
Roanoke, VA
Jun 3, 2006
#4
  • Jun 3, 2006
  • #4
El Diablo said:
here's a pic of my 2001 gt, hope it helps!

Click to expand...


Thanks Diablo,

I took a dremel to it last weekend and it will move fine now. I beleive I have enough clearance to the alternator. I'm installing everything next weekend. I went ahead and installed the intercooler. I fabricated the steering fluid cooling hose to get the steering cooler lines out of the way.

I have the intercooler bolted up. My only problem now is that there is NO WAY the L bracket will bolt up to the intercooler. There is way too much space between them.

Did you have to fab the L bracket to get it to hook up?

Thanks for any help you can provide.

Perhaps there are some things you ran into that you didn't anticipate. What might be some things I need to know?

Thank you!!!!
 

cracula69

Founding Member
Aug 11, 2002
425
0
0
Stamford, CT
Jun 3, 2006
#5
  • Jun 3, 2006
  • #5
I had similar issues ad the best thing to do is double check the fitmet of every single pipe you've installed. Make sure everything is positioned (rotated) correctly as well. I found plenty of additional length solving this simple problem.

Also do you know if your tensioner is the new or old style? New style replaces the old weak aluminum arm which flexes, cracks, and ultimately breaks. This is also a big reason why your belt may slip if it does. I found mine was cracked at the spring retainer.

One last thing- Anderson and Western Motor SPorts (WMS) makes inlet pipes to the head unit which increase the effiency (and power) so I suggest you take a look into that. I've got a WMS & it works well.

Dave
 

JBushman73

Founding Member
Aug 29, 2001
172
0
0
Roanoke, VA
Jun 3, 2006
#6
  • Jun 3, 2006
  • #6
cracula69 said:
I had similar issues ad the best thing to do is double check the fitmet of every single pipe you've installed. Make sure everything is positioned (rotated) correctly as well. I found plenty of additional length solving this simple problem.

Also do you know if your tensioner is the new or old style? New style replaces the old weak aluminum arm which flexes, cracks, and ultimately breaks. This is also a big reason why your belt may slip if it does. I found mine was cracked at the spring retainer.

One last thing- Anderson and Western Motor SPorts (WMS) makes inlet pipes to the head unit which increase the effiency (and power) so I suggest you take a look into that. I've got a WMS & it works well.

Dave
Click to expand...

I beleive I have the old style which I will eventually repalce with a STEEL one.

Thanks for the inlet pipe suggestion too.
 

SaleenGT2001

Well-Known Member
Jul 18, 2005
2,811
4
58
Four Oaks NC
Jun 4, 2006
#7
  • Jun 4, 2006
  • #7
is the aluminum tensioner a problem with all s/c cars? i dont wanna shred a belt and be stuck beside the road trying to pull off that novi to replace something!
 
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