Project Resto - Supercharged 1992 GT 'Vert

Just wanted to share my experience with swapping heater cores. I wish I recorded this.

So pulling the dash out, if your experienced with wrenching and a contortionist, you can free the dash in 1hr max, and that I includes organizing all the screws and nuts and panels.

It took is 3.5 hours to get the new heater core IN. We had to Dremel an edge off the back right of the box. It's liked this curved section where the heater core too has to slide over. We also trimmed some areas of the plastic that werre clearly hitting the top of the inner firewall.

You must put the heater core and panel back in at once together. We did not bother getting the back screws in. No way in hell could my hands take anymore torture.

And check out pictures below. First picture is the heater core from LMR. IT CLEARLY DOESNT FIT RIGHT. AND IT IS THE RIGHT ONE

Next is OEM. And the one below that is heater core we got from radiator express. It actually had the solder joint boxed looking joints too. It fit like OEM as shown.

And we did this with the AC still connected!
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I couldn't do that to a heater box. A leak in that box will cause a real pressure drop. I've cheated a bunch of heater cores but it was always easy to seal them back up. It's so easy for my to pull the dash and heater box in a mustang I just couldn't bring myself to do it.
 
I figured out what the stuttering issue around 2k rpm. Its lugging the transmission. What is funny is how lightly you can apply the throttle and it will buck.

I tried lightly accelerating at 1.5k rpm in 3rd and sure enough it did the same thing up until around 2100-2200 rpm.

I slid my shift points now to be at 3k rpm. Other than that she is running good as new. Just need to do the altenator to get all back to square.
 
Well I put the new alternator on the stang. 130 amp PA with 4 gauge wiring inside flame retardant corrugated plastic tubing hook up to a 125 amp blue sea fuse block. I cut the two black wires and taped them off will still retaining the fuseable link.

and ran everything else as it should. Its almost like it doesnt know how much voltage it actually needs....

It idled alot better when cranking it up and you can hear the fuel pump humming along....but what is funny is the voltage is fine for one minute then after it kicks down from like 900 ish rpm to its idle around 675 the voltage goes from midway on the gauge down to like 11 ish where it was before.

checked all grounds and connections all is good and secure.

And when i crank everything on, blower, lights radio at full blast, idling, its probably around 11.5 ish. same spot it was at before the upgrade but still better.

And when its idiling around 13.7 volts you can see the "mild cam" causing the lights to go dim bright dim bright etc....

Sounds like a bad connection somewhere, but i checked everything out. hmmm......
 
Well I put the new alternator on the stang. 130 amp PA with 4 gauge wiring inside flame retardant corrugated plastic tubing hook up to a 125 amp blue sea fuse block. I cut the two black wires and taped them off will still retaining the fuseable link.

and ran everything else as it should. Its almost like it doesnt know how much voltage it actually needs....

It idled alot better when cranking it up and you can hear the fuel pump humming along....but what is funny is the voltage is fine for one minute then after it kicks down from like 900 ish rpm to its idle around 675 the voltage goes from midway on the gauge down to like 11 ish where it was before.

checked all grounds and connections all is good and secure.

And when i crank everything on, blower, lights radio at full blast, idling, its probably around 11.5 ish. same spot it was at before the upgrade but still better.

And when its idiling around 13.7 volts you can see the "mild cam" causing the lights to go dim bright dim bright etc....

Sounds like a bad connection somewhere, but i checked everything out. hmmm......


Sounds to me like you didn't swap your factory pulley over to the 3g... which would result in you not getting enough charging volts at idle because the 3g pulley is larger in diameter.
 
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You know.....you are right. I told myself while I was doing this job I needed to check and verify the pulleys were the same size and I forgot to do that. I did this over 2ish weeks, I bought another project car so my time was split.

So let me ask this, even though I did get a PA 130 amp alternator for the mustang for my year, they wouldn't have already swapped the pulleys to begin with? Why else would they say that this is a replacement alternator for my fox body if the pulley is a different diameter?

Is that the same reason every company sells the PA wiring harness for the 130amp alternator which is a 200 amp inline fuse with 4 gauge wire?and also telling you to tap into the factory power wires?

Hopefully I can at least swap the pulleys with the alternator on the vehicle.

I aint touching that damn vortech bracket again lol