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  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech

Pulling an engine

  • Thread starter Thread starter bboylobo
  • Start date Start date Oct 29, 2009
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twogts4us

15 Year Member
Apr 1, 2004
4,188
12
79
Dunedin, FL
Oct 29, 2009
#21
  • Oct 29, 2009
  • #21
02nightmaregt said:
Ha those Haynes manuals are crap, They say they cover years up to '04, but there is nothing in it about PI's. I have one and it does not help with crap. Also how else do you learn about an engine, other than by working on it? If you want to pull it to make things easier to work on than do it. Its ignorant to tell you not to do it. I am in the middle of tearing mine apart right now to clean up some wiring, and replace a bunch of parts. I am also a visual/hands on learner so I understand why you are doing it. Post pics along the way
Click to expand...

First, your sig is nearly impossible to read due to the color of the lettering.

Secondly, It's certainly not ignorant to advise this guy NOT to pull his engine to tinker around with it. Actually it would be ignorant to tell him it's the right thing to do. Other than repairing an exhaust leak, and general clean up, he has no real plans, so I'd call that tinkering. As the old saying goes, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."
You are in the middle of tearing yours apart right now to clean up some wiring, and replace a bunch of parts? Ummm, the wiring is on the outside. What parts are you replacing that warrants engine removal?
I can appreciate being a 'visual/hands on learner', and I cut my teeth in high school shop class with a lawnmower engine by taking it apart and reassembling it, but this is a whole different animal. I guess it comes down to funding - does he have the money to have someone fix it when he is done tinkering?
 

ChillPhatCat

20+ Year Stangneter
Apr 22, 2002
409
65
48
Syracuse, NY
Oct 29, 2009
#22
  • Oct 29, 2009
  • #22
oxfordgt said:
I build some of the fastest mustangs in my town and have pulled dozens of 4.6L engines in 2 hours without being ghetto and cutting crap. I can pull my entire car apart right down to just the body in 6 hours. Just because you can't do it doesn't mean others can't.
Click to expand...

You don't sound like the average joe schmoe in his garage or driveway with a basic set of hand tools and a jack stand or two... do you have a fully prepped shop or what? 2 hours is a Very fast swap out except for professionals. If you read the next half of what I said... I put in the condition that pros could very well do it.

And what makes it ghetto cutting stuff instead of disconnecting it? Old rotten vacuum and coolant lines and corroded electrical connections are far easier to cut than pull off or unscrew when you're junking the car.
 
8

88fan

New Member
Sep 23, 2004
13
0
1
central PA
Oct 29, 2009
#23
  • Oct 29, 2009
  • #23
Bboylogo,
I commend you for wanting to do this yourself. I too am going to be removing my engine in the spring. Not just to "change the oil" but to rebuild and freshen her up. She has 156,000 miles. This will be a learning process for me too. And when I'm done I will know alot more of the ins and outs of my car.
To you guys with your help, I thank you too.
To you that offer nothing but complaining in somebody elses thread, and this appears to only be one, mind your own business. If you have nothing positive to contribute to a thread, keep quiet. This is how some other Mustang forums got a bad rep.
 

twogts4us

15 Year Member
Apr 1, 2004
4,188
12
79
Dunedin, FL
Oct 29, 2009
#24
  • Oct 29, 2009
  • #24
I took my Eureka vacuum apart today...now it doesn't work. I just wanted to see how it worked and freshen it up. Tomorrow I'll toss that aside and take apart my refrigerator...I'm dying to see what makes that thing tick. Should be fun.
 

oxfordgt

Member
Apr 30, 2006
288
2
18
Clarksville, TN
Oct 29, 2009
#25
  • Oct 29, 2009
  • #25
ChillPhatCat said:
You don't sound like the average joe schmoe in his garage or driveway with a basic set of hand tools and a jack stand or two... do you have a fully prepped shop or what? 2 hours is a Very fast swap out except for professionals. If you read the next half of what I said... I put in the condition that pros could very well do it.

And what makes it ghetto cutting stuff instead of disconnecting it? Old rotten vacuum and coolant lines and corroded electrical connections are far easier to cut than pull off or unscrew when you're junking the car.
Click to expand...
The 1 car garage in the pic above is where I do all my work. I am no pro. The army is my real job. I have been offered jobs at mustang shops because of the cars I build and bring to them to tune. I have basic hand tools bought from walmart and autozone over the years. It's not hard to pull these engines. They are easier to pull then 351w motors.
 

Pearl02

Member
Nov 27, 2004
496
0
16
Kansas City
Oct 30, 2009
#26
  • Oct 30, 2009
  • #26
I haven't pulled a engine in a long time. I'm not sure how hard it would be to pull one out of our cars. I believe you can do it. Mark your wire harnesses and disconnect everything. Remove your hood and find a place to connect your engine hoist. Just left the engine out slowly. Get a buddy to help guide to engine out. If I lived in Lancaster I'd give you a hand. The important thing is to take your time since you don't need the car back soon. Do get some type of repair manual. Good luck to you. Pearl02.
 
B

bboylobo

New Member
May 4, 2005
130
0
0
Lancaster PA
Oct 30, 2009
#27
  • Oct 30, 2009
  • #27
twogts4us said:
I took my Eureka vacuum apart today...now it doesn't work. I just wanted to see how it worked and freshen it up. Tomorrow I'll toss that aside and take apart my refrigerator...I'm dying to see what makes that thing tick. Should be fun.
Click to expand...



That was funny, i love sarcasm!

i understand your logic behind the whole thing. i mean if i felt like i coudnt handle such an operation i wouldnt try. i dont know you but from what i gather you dont seem to be a big risk taker. I do have money put away just in case my stupid comes out. lol

I do feel like i can pull the engine out. i have a pretty good collection of sockets and tools, im actually going to have a compressor and air power impact tools before i do this.

Im not goanna pull the engine till after the 14 of novemeber and if i do something wrong i have alot of resources AKA forums, internet, manual, friends who are auto mechanics i can reference for help. Plus i have as much time as i need with the car since its not my DD. It can sit till next march if it has to but i doubt it will. All you guys who are supportive, thanks for info and stories. Ill post pics and the progress once i start it.

So i now know that im going to drop the oil pan, clean and reseal it, clean up the block from all the grease, most likely get LT headers on while its out, if not ill just put on new gaskets and torque the headers down correctly. I didnt get a chance to do it right the first time since it was so hard to access the top bolts on the shorties. I am also going to replace the upper intake plenum. I keep forgetting i have the crappy intake that breaks easily. Its allready cause me problems by stripping one of the Cops bolt inside leading me to snap the cop at the plastic.

Anyway thats my plan so far. anyone have any more ideas?
 

oxfordgt

Member
Apr 30, 2006
288
2
18
Clarksville, TN
Oct 30, 2009
#28
  • Oct 30, 2009
  • #28
When the engine is out would be a good time to put a tubed K member in.
 
B

bboylobo

New Member
May 4, 2005
130
0
0
Lancaster PA
Oct 30, 2009
#29
  • Oct 30, 2009
  • #29
i been looking around for one just to see what the prices are. i seen the granatelli and thae Q1A k member but i dont think those are great quality ones since they are rather cheap. Whats a good K-member for the price? 500+ might be outa my range though.
 

wmburns

SN Certified Technician
Aug 14, 2009
5,892
514
204
Houston Texas
Oct 30, 2009
#30
  • Oct 30, 2009
  • #30
Do you have a torque wrench? Need two if possible. A smaller one 3/8" drive that can go down to 5-10 foot-pounds. A larger 1/2" drive that can go up to 150 foot-pounds.

The intake manifold and oil pan bolts should be torqued to specification. This will help ensure leak free and break free results.

If you do not own and do not want to buy, consider rent or borrowing from a buddy. If you are only going to buy one, make it the smaller. The intake manifold and spark plugs will thank-you.

That is unless your arm has been calibrated for proper torque . Now that I have mentioned "torque wrench", watch out.:fairyfight:

Consider replacing the two small hoses going from the EGR tube to the DPFE sensor. They are difficult to replace with the engine in the car. Simple on the stand.

I'm with other posters on pulling the engine just for header repair. Consider combining other work (freshen bottom end, rebuild, port/polish, K-member) at the same time. If high-mileage, consider a new timing set. At min, inspect to see how much plastic is left on the tensioners.
 
K

Kilgore Trout

Fried or Broiled ?
10 Year Member
Mar 30, 2005
4,749
95
134
Oct 30, 2009
#31
  • Oct 30, 2009
  • #31
twogts4us said:
I took my Eureka vacuum apart today...now it doesn't work. I just wanted to see how it worked and freshen it up. Tomorrow I'll toss that aside and take apart my refrigerator...I'm dying to see what makes that thing tick. Should be fun.
Click to expand...
Quit being such a whiny bitch in tech... That is MY job!
 

02nightmaregt

To hell with your Mustang, I want to see your HOG!
Jul 1, 2007
513
4
19
Southern Indiana
Oct 30, 2009
#32
  • Oct 30, 2009
  • #32
twogts4us said:
First, your sig is nearly impossible to read due to the color of the lettering.

Secondly, It's certainly not ignorant to advise this guy NOT to pull his engine to tinker around with it. Actually it would be ignorant to tell him it's the right thing to do. Other than repairing an exhaust leak, and general clean up, he has no real plans, so I'd call that tinkering. As the old saying goes, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."
You are in the middle of tearing yours apart right now to clean up some wiring, and replace a bunch of parts? Ummm, the wiring is on the outside. What parts are you replacing that warrants engine removal?
I can appreciate being a 'visual/hands on learner', and I cut my teeth in high school shop class with a lawnmower engine by taking it apart and reassembling it, but this is a whole different animal. I guess it comes down to funding - does he have the money to have someone fix it when he is done tinkering?
Click to expand...

Well first it's not hard to see when you use the Dark Sweet Blue color scheme option at the bottom of the page

He also said he wanted to "clean some things up". Not take it all apart and try to put it back together. The wiring I am talking about is not on the inside. Its wiring for my nitrous kit, and for some gauges. I also NEVER said I was removing my engine. I am pulling parts to replace my headers, starter, motor mounts, and clutch. I wasn't rying to come off as a **** but instead of telling him not to do it give hime some advise. Afterall he DID say that he would not need to drive the car for a while so he has time to work on it.
 

twogts4us

15 Year Member
Apr 1, 2004
4,188
12
79
Dunedin, FL
Oct 30, 2009
#33
  • Oct 30, 2009
  • #33
Kilgore Trout said:
Quit being such a whiny bitch in tech... That is MY job!
Click to expand...



I've learned from the best!
 

twogts4us

15 Year Member
Apr 1, 2004
4,188
12
79
Dunedin, FL
Oct 30, 2009
#34
  • Oct 30, 2009
  • #34
bboylobo said:
That was funny, i love sarcasm!
Click to expand...

Is your old man a TV repairman, with an ultimate set of tools?










(for those too young, that was Sean Penn's (as Jeff Spicoli, the epitome of a surfer dude ) line after completely wrecking Jefferson's car in the 1982 movie Fast Times at Ridgemont High. - "Relax, alright? My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it." - classic stuff )
 
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