Pulling out oil pan question

Wi Stang

Member

Jun 27, 2004

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16

Fountain City, WI

Jun 16, 2005

#1

• Jun 16, 2005

• #1

Well, I'm in the middle of my HCI/SC install. It is all torn down to just the short block. I figure since I am down there, I might as well take the oil pan off so that I can weld a bung in there for the vortech oil line. I have never been this deep into a motor before, so I am wondering if I undo the engine mounts, and the tranny mount will I be able to lift the engine enough to get the pan out? Also will I need to disconnect the driveshaft, or shifter before I attempt this?

 

Wi Stang

Member

Jun 27, 2004

248

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Fountain City, WI

Jun 16, 2005

#2

• Jun 16, 2005

• #2

Oh yeah, the car is an auto if that make any difference.

 

FastFord

Founding Member

Sep 5, 2002

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Washington

Jun 16, 2005

#3

• Jun 16, 2005

• #3

Wi Stang said:

I am wondering if I undo the engine mounts, and the tranny mount will I be able to lift the engine enough to get the pan out? Also will I need to disconnect the driveshaft, or shifter before I attempt this?

Click to expand...

Well, I never had any luck with this method. I never got enough clearance. However, as you have stripped down your motor, you may very well be able too.

 

94-302-vert

Active Member

Aug 16, 2004

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NE CT

Jun 16, 2005

#4

• Jun 16, 2005

• #4

I don't think you will get the clearance you need....

 

Wi Stang

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Jun 27, 2004

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Fountain City, WI

Jun 16, 2005

#5

• Jun 16, 2005

• #5

If I can't get the clearance that way, is it pretty easy to just unbolt the engine from the transmission and lift it up enough to get the pan out?

 

94-302-vert

Active Member

Aug 16, 2004

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NE CT

Jun 16, 2005

#6

• Jun 16, 2005

• #6

Yes.

 

cavscout371

New Member

Mar 30, 2005

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Jun 16, 2005

#7

• Jun 16, 2005

• #7

Do you not have an engine stand?
Just unbolt the engine from the tranny and engine mounts from the crossmember and pull it that way you can at least get the oil pan off and I would suggest at least looking at the wear on the rod and main bearings and replacing them if yah have the money while you got it out.

 

Wi Stang

Member

Jun 27, 2004

248

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16

Fountain City, WI

Jun 16, 2005

#8

• Jun 16, 2005

• #8

My buddy has an engine stand, but there is a 393 on it right now. I'll just pull the shortblock right off and not mess with trying to lift it up and get the pan out with the tranny still attached. I'll check out the rod and main berings too then while I'm at it. Hopefully no surprises.
Thanks

 

B

BOSTANG

New Member

Apr 28, 2005

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Mesa AZ

Jun 16, 2005

#9

• Jun 16, 2005

• #9

If you are putting in a S trim, if you are going that far put in forged pistons and rods too.

 

Wi Stang

Member

Jun 27, 2004

248

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Fountain City, WI

Jun 16, 2005

#10

• Jun 16, 2005

• #10

I'm pretty much tapped out for cash right now. I have enough saved up for some dyno time after I am done, and that is about it. The plan is to save for an upgraded tranny and rearend next, then start saving for a dart block with all forged internals so I can run more boost.

 

mo_dingo

20+ Year Stangneter

Aug 26, 2003

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Tucson, AZ

Jun 16, 2005

#11

• Jun 16, 2005

• #11

Why not weld the bung on with the oil pan installed??? I don't see anything wrong with that.

Just make sure you disconnect all of the ground wires before you weld. It's very easy to fry your comp that way.
Scott