Progress Thread My centrifugal ppl, how’s this deal?

Alrighty done with that install, now just waiting till Saturday to take it over to the shop and get it aligned and dialed in. Only issue I had was the hood struts and hitting on the nut where my old plates had an Allen head type deal. I adjusted it to fit, so the hood closes just worried about once it’s all aligned if there will be any issues. Only had to enlarge the drivers side strut tower holes which was great the passenger had plenty of free movement.
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Have any playdoh?

Basically clay the strut slightly and close the hood. See how much clearance you actually have. If your camber isn't set yet, moving the strut outwards may cause some interference depending on where it's set now.

I had no interference with my camber in, but when I set it to 1* negative, it pushed my hood blanket up far enough to push the hood up. So I just moved one spacer.
 
Have any playdoh?

Basically clay the strut slightly and close the hood. See how much clearance you actually have. If your camber isn't set yet, moving the strut outwards may cause some interference depending on where it's set now.

I had no interference with my camber in, but when I set it to 1* negative, it pushed my hood blanket up far enough to push the hood up. So I just moved one spacer.
I’ll have to double check on the play, it seems pretty tight, good call on the clay might have to try that before I take it into the shop i tightened everything down so it will suck to have to take off strut again etc but I’m starting to think moving the small down might be best, blah!!! I’ll check it after work
 
Have any playdoh?

Basically clay the strut slightly and close the hood. See how much clearance you actually have. If your camber isn't set yet, moving the strut outwards may cause some interference depending on where it's set now.

I had no interference with my camber in, but when I set it to 1* negative, it pushed my hood blanket up far enough to push the hood up. So I just moved one spacer.
Ok so not much play in the hood but don’t feel like there ever was. Pretty solid, and lines have always all lined up very nice. So I used some dental wax I had left over from some old Halloween stuff. First I put it in the area where it would touch if it were to on both sides and nothing. So I thought well maybe I’m missing it or off. Placed the was on both strut tops, the wax is kinda wavy so figured if the hood is hitting it would cause a flat spot. Closed the hood and nothing. Tried one more attempt, taped some spacers from the old plates over the area of the hood that would hit, left the wax on the struts, closed the hood and we are good.
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Well I know it’s not exactly what the sending unit is but it’s surely a lot closer to spec 22E/145F, vs the original 73E/10F the gauge was reading. It’s now set up for 16E/158 F
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I was gonna harp on you to keep your gauges all the same style, but If you look at my dash, you'll find that it's full of brand new gauges from NewVintage..but Im still using a digital innovate AFR gauge..( I ain't replacing a known-working AFR gauge with a different one just because it doesn't match) And just recently, I added back the glow shift boost gauge that I also had laying around in a drawer.
But I already had that stuff.
If you haven't purchased anything yet, I'd be wondering as to why you wouldn't keep your gauge theme intact instead of hodge-podging two or three different brands together...especially considering you just bought al of those auto meter gauges.

I'm assuming that it's electrical, and the pic is if the sender that you have now spliced into your fuel line, but If that fuel pressure gauge is mechanical and it has gas going to it, it has no place inside your car unless you like the smell of burning flesh right before you die.
A visual aid for this morning's lecture:
burning_man_zpsk05aoemx.gif

You don't need to see fuel pressure considering most of the rest of the world get by without ever knowing wtf it is..I can see having it on a race engine where a lack of FP means engine melt down, but on a street car.... :notnice:
if there is a hard line with gas running to the gauge, you gotta keep it outside. I think It looks bad when mounted outside of the car on the cowl and makes the equivalent statement of having wheelie bars on a street driven car with street tires on it....But that's just me.

As for which side to mount the O2 sensor in, it won't matter...burned gasses are burned gasses regardless of which bank they are coming out of. Having a wide band o2 sensor is a tuning aid regardless of the engines N/A status..it'll tell you how much fuel is getting burned, and how much isn't in the combustion process. It will record what it does ( a data log) so that you can make a hard pull and see how rich or lean the engine is, with the objective AFR at wot as lean as possible w/o risking damage to the engine ( a whole different lecture).
Just remembered that one of the main reasons Is I didn’t pay full price for my gauges and cluster set. I paid 500 for two clusters, plus the gauges. Knew I could sell the lmr cluster for 50 which I did right away so I got everything technically for 450. The guy who I bought them from got them in a package deal in a notch he bought to which the previous owner bought them, then sold the car. The guy who bought it didn’t want to mess around with all the wiring so I told him I’d give him 500 and he went for it. Which is why for me it hard to buy two ford racing gauges, stepper boost/vac and fuel pressure and drop 560 bucks on those plus 300ish for a wide band to match!!!
 
Got the gauge back in and buttoned up everything again and it’s back on track. I know it’s still slightly off but I feel it’s no more reliable than what the ohms were previously. Got the car over to the shop and got it all aligned and man it was back and forth trying to get it dialed in. They got the caster/camber set, then trying to get the toe set with my bump steer was very finicky. Got the car off the rack drove it, and it was slightly pulling, back on it was slightly off. Readjusted everything. They think maybe my a arm bushings, which are still what the car came with are just sloppy and why they were having such a hard time keeping the adjustments. Now I’m thinking hmmmmmm k member! New A arms with spring perch’s!!! Idk is all that worth it? I was checking out BMRs tubular A arms and was wondering if anyone has used these, are they good etc? Why do they have standard ball joint and raised ball joints. I am running 94/95 ball joints since I’ve done the conversion. Could I still use those in this kinda A arm set up? Not that I’ll do this tomorrow or anything unless I just buy these a arms then maybe. 393E1CFB-5AC5-43C5-886A-7B72C7B8AD13.png 859BB1AC-293E-403F-B06F-8D1F1C71732D.png
 
I've had a few cars with k member swaps. Currrently I have upr's moly k member, a arms, cc coilovers setup on my 88 hatch daily driver for over four years now zero issues. Also have same k/a arm setup on my 93 coupe and enjoy the ease of access to everything, weight savings and adjustment of the ride height up front that the coilovers offers.
 
I've had a few cars with k member swaps. Currrently I have upr's moly k member, a arms, cc coilovers setup on my 88 hatch daily driver for over four years now zero issues. Also have same k/a arm setup on my 93 coupe and enjoy the ease of access to everything, weight savings and adjustment of the ride height up front that the coilovers offers.
Cool good to know, only complaint I heard from someone on upr moly set up was I heard it would make a strange noise. Idk if I’ll even do this quite yet. I am interested in it though, just not wanting to swap out to coil overs etc right now, but I’m thinking about trying those bmr a arms just not real sure on their products and if it’s good etc.
 
Cool good to know, only complaint I heard from someone on upr moly set up was I heard it would make a strange noise. Idk if I’ll even do this quite yet. I am interested in it though, just not wanting to swap out to coil overs etc right now, but I’m thinking about trying those bmr a arms just not real sure on their products and if it’s good etc.

Don't know how a k member and a arm could make a strange noise.. Only thing like that I've seen people experience is using cheap cc plates to where the bearings are noisy or shot. You already have MM cc plates so your covered there

BMR is a popular among the s550 crowd last time I had one but personally have zero first hand experience with them
 
I don’t think those arms would provide any improvement over the stock units. The weight savings would minimal and it’s hard to get much stronger than stamped steel. I don’t think a k member swap is worth it unless you are planning to take advantage of the coil overs
 
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I don’t think those arms would provide any improvement over the stock units. The weight savings would minimal and it’s hard to get much stronger than stamped steel. I don’t think a k member swap is worth it unless you are planning to take advantage of the coil overs
Not planning that at this point. I would like to eventually swap out to coil overs but it’s not something in the plans currently. Maybe I should just swap out the bushings on the a arms. I also swapped my rack bushings to off sets bushings when I had the 03 cobra rack installed and idk if those were just some cheap bushings or if they over tightened them when installed but those don’t look so great. I’ll have to snap a picture of them and post them and see what you guys think.
 
Why do you want to change A-arms? Just to refresh the bushings?

If you are going coil-overs, and k-member, it's best to buy it all as one kit (like from MM) but if you are just looking to change out old worn bushings, i'd just go with these. These are actually what I run currently.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fms-m-3075-a
I’m not sure if I will, the guy who I’ve gone to many times for things was trying to dial in the suspension and kept saying how just the smallest adjustments on one side would shift the other. So he said that it could be bad bushings in the A arms or could be the fact that I didn’t use shims with the struts. I didnt put any in bc I didn’t think I needed them. Idk they just didn’t seem like they would fit like they did on the stock stuff. With the new spindles and these tokico blues they fit in pretty nice. Guess I could always double check and see. He just thought with my suspension upgrades, new MM plates and the bump steer kit it would have dialed in easy but everything would dial in on one side, he would start dialing in on the other and it would start throwing off the other. So he thinks there is some slop somewhere whether it’s the bushings, or something.
 
Finally got the rear seats out of their red designer dressings and into that little black dress. So I almost bought the corbeau rear seat upholstery but I just knew I wouldn’t like, it’s an old pattern and I really really wanted to try and make my seats all look the same, as though this is what the car came with. I decided to go visit one more shop in a little area that was kinda off the beaten path ok not so great part of Austin. I told them what I wanted, showed them my upholstery and they looked at it, and were like mmmmmm nah I don’t think so, I said well what about if we just take the inserts and find some material that matches and just wrap my seats with it all together. Little abuelo came out, his son told him what I was thinking and he said yes we can do that. We looked at their 2017 ford material book, found what we all though was the same material, since the seats are out of a 2017. This was exactly what another shop was gonna do but for 850 bucks and these guys hooked it up, with material and labor for 325. I think it looks great!! Seats match up, I won’t ever actually sit in the back, but I just wanted something that all matched up. I’m super happy with it. Not bad, and I’m glad I held off and went to this one last shop and was able to get this done at a reasonable price. Now I just need to figure how to get this rear hatch area from drooping, I took out the spare wheel and jack, anyone fixed this issue?
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