R12 to R134 conversion results

DTT92LX · Aug 10, 2004

No kidding! I'd love to get my a/c back but no way I'm payin' $800. I'll figger it out myself!!!

Where's the drier?

_jb_ · Aug 10, 2004

Man, I'm glad someone converted my car over. On my truck we had that baby blowing out 36*F air out of the vents, that was damn cold lol! Then that winter something or someone hit my condenser and just ruined it. Now all my lines are probily all rusted...

LASTFOX · Aug 10, 2004

Your drier should changed also, which is attached to the LOW side line that runs along the firewall to the drivers side of compressor...I chose not to do this right now for a couple of reasons:

1) I was right there in the shop when the system was being converted and it blew cold enough for me. The season is almost over anyway and if it didn't work...only loss would be about the $30 I had into it anyway.

2) Since the KB1500 install, my A/C lines have Worm-type screw clamps on them, it was necessary to cut the A/C lines to fit the S/C. So early next season I'll purchase a Drier/Low side line and have a Professional Hydrualic Crimp setup done!

cardudeusa · Aug 10, 2004

Js5ohLX said:
If you do the conversion yourself, you will never get the results you want if you don't have a vacuum machine and didn't change the drier.

Never say never. I have done the conversion to my 90 GT and my girlfriends 87 GT and both work as good as just about any new car. On the 87 all the R12 was lost when the motor was swapped, so it didn't work at all. On my 90 the R12 was just low and didn't blow as cold as I wanted. I spent $15-20 tops on each car, and couldn't be happier with the a/c performance. I'm not saying it will last as long as the factory R12 stayed in there, but if I have to put a can of R134A in every summer, its worth it to me.

Js5ohLX · Aug 10, 2004

If you don't pull a vacuum, it WILL NOT be as efficient or last as long. By pulling a vacuum, you remove moisture. That's all. It's that simple. Moisture is a contaminate that will ruin your performance. I know it will work without it, but not like it was intended,or capable of and when you blow up a compressor and send the chunks flying through your evap and condesor and all the lines, that $800.00 is going to sound cheap.

_jb_ · Aug 10, 2004

I've heard the A/C compressor lock up before with a serpentine belt. Sounded like a car slamed on the brakes.

cardudeusa · Aug 10, 2004

Js5ohLX said:
If you don't pull a vacuum, it WILL NOT be as efficient or last as long. By pulling a vacuum, you remove moisture. That's all. It's that simple. Moisture is a contaminate that will ruin your performance. I know it will work without it, but not like it was intended,or capable of and when you blow up a compressor and send the chunks flying through your evap and condesor and all the lines, that $800.00 is going to sound cheap.

Of all the people I know that have done the R134 conversion in the last 2-3 years I have never heard of that happening. I know probubly 35-40 people that have done that, some of them family some of them everyday custumers. I know the "right" way of doing, and I know the "I wan't cold a/c cheap and now" way of doing it. Not saying your not right, but just stating what I've seen.

cardudeusa · Aug 10, 2004

BTW I'm going to get a temp gauge, and see what my a/c temps are coming out. Just for something to compare to.

Idwitheld-1` · Aug 10, 2004

For the currious the conversion consists of parts AND labor.
Parts $407, labor $344

What does it include?

AC diagnostic charge, 70 bucks
AC evacuation and charge, 98 bucks
new accumulator and orafice 176 bucks
oil 22 bucks
dye 12 bucks
48 units R134 refridgerant 34 bucks
accumulator hose 206 bucks
Pipe cooler no 2, 71 bucks
misc shop supplies (donuts) $$

Cold air and a warranty, PRICELESS!
This is the first time I have ever taken my GT to a shop for work. I just felt that making the conversion (now) makes future service that much easier. Plus, its now conditioned (with shinney new parts) to last into the future.

Hissin....I think your right my temp gauge is nuts. The AC never shut off...so it must of not been hotter than 242...like you said.

cardudeusa · Aug 10, 2004

Idwitheld-1` said:
For the currious the conversion consists of parts AND labor.
Parts $407, labor $344

What does it include?

AC diagnostic charge, 70 bucks
AC evacuation and charge, 98 bucks
new accumulator and orafice 176 bucks
oil 22 bucks
dye 12 bucks
48 units R134 refridgerant 34 bucks
accumulator hose 206 bucks
Pipe cooler no 2, 71 bucks
misc shop supplies (donuts) $$

Cold air and a warranty, PRICELESS!
This is the first time I have ever taken my GT to a shop for work. I just felt that making the conversion (now) makes future service that much easier. Plus, its now conditioned (with shinney new parts) to last into the future.

Hissin....I think your right my temp gauge is nuts. The AC never shut off...so it must of not been hotter than 242...like you said.

Guess its time for an aftermarket temp gauge. Lets see some pics of youre engine compartment with all the new hoses and stuff.

87'GTstang · Aug 10, 2004

Too many posts to read but in case it hasn't been said: about the a/c idea - it's already been done. Ford experimented with it for the 06' lightning a few years back. They designed a "turbo boost" system where it charged up for approx. 2 minutes and when the green light on the dash lit up you pressed the button and it produced up to an extra 50 hp for a few seconds. Cool idea and it seriously worked. Unless they changed it or scrapped it as just a prototype system, it should still be comeing out when the lightning returns - unless someone else has heard otherwise.

R12 to R134 conversion results

DTT92LX

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_jb_

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_jb_

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Idwitheld-1`

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