Rebulding for the first time

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Rushman04

New Member

Aug 11, 2003

42

0

0

Jul 9, 2006

#1

• Jul 9, 2006

• #1

Hey everyone. I have slowly been working on a 5.0 motor on putting it together. IT is a 86 5.0 block and crank. the rods a pistons are 87, and the heads also. I put in all new bearing and i was puting the bottom end together and notice its pretty tough the turn the motor with the wrench at the end. I tighten all the components right. The crankshaft turn beautiful with out the pistons on. I was wondering if this was the way rebuilt motors are since nothing it brken in yet.

 

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wazazzle

New Member

Mar 30, 2005

618

1

0

In the dumpster behind McDonalds. WA

Jul 9, 2006

#2

• Jul 9, 2006

• #2

i'm no prof builder, but i thought you do not under any circumstance turn the crank until the entire motor has been oil prep'd mechanically via the oil pump. And that's after the motor has been put all together. you didn't forget to assembly lube it did you? the bearings also have only one way to install, it wasn't put in the wrong way was it? but then again what do i know i've only watched people build. if i was you i'd watch the ebay sbf build dvd, cost like $20 shipped.

 

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mercurycapri

Member

May 30, 2006

211

2

18

washington

Jul 9, 2006

#3

• Jul 9, 2006

• #3

Did you get the rods resized. Good thing to do and put new rod bolts in also.

 

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Rushman04

New Member

Aug 11, 2003

42

0

0

Jul 9, 2006

#4

• Jul 9, 2006

• #4

hey i got thinking about it and the only thing iam concerned about is the way the pistons are in. All the rods and a caps are marked with the number which clyinder they are in. i put them in that order but the big question is the notches in the bearing are they going to face up or face down? i put the bearings in the proper way. PLEASE help

 

GearHd6

Member

Jul 19, 2005

459

0

18

Ashford, CT

Jul 9, 2006

#5

• Jul 9, 2006

• #5

There should be a matching notch in the rod itself that accepts the notch in the bearing. That notch is there to keep the bearing from spinning in the rod and ruining it.

 

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R2D2

Jul 9, 2006

#6

• Jul 9, 2006

• #6

8lbs of pressure to move a single piston in the bore with rings installed, 8x8=64 lbs, use a torque wrench set to 60 and let me know if it clicks or you can turn the rotating assembly without the torque wrench clicking.

 

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R2D2

Jul 9, 2006

#7

• Jul 9, 2006

• #7

also have a peek here which talks about the chamfer on the rods and the crank fillet, you have to register I think though cause the pics are attachements. http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,237.0.html

 

GearHd6

Member

Jul 19, 2005

459

0

18

Ashford, CT

Jul 9, 2006

#8

• Jul 9, 2006

• #8

And did you at least Plastigage all the rod and main bearing journals to verify your bearing clearances? Thats a bare minimum, I use a dial bore gauge on real critical stuff and Plastigage on basic rebuilds.

 

mustangillusion

Founding Member

Jun 24, 2001

74

0

0

Oklahoma

Jul 9, 2006

#9

• Jul 9, 2006

• #9

If it is possible that you mixed up the rods after they came out of an 87 you may be having a clearance issue between the rods. Check a haynes or chiltons manual for rod to rod clearance. Keep swapping the rods around until the all have the proper amount of clearance. Another tip: there is a notch on top of the piston of towards the edge, this notch needs to be pointing toward the front of the engine to get your flycuts for the valves in the right position. Seems like you also need to put the notch on the rods pointing to the side of the block that the piston is on. I got these tips from a professional engine builder.