Recommended Oil and Spark plugs?

agreeing - Motorcraft or Autolite coppers and synthetic is fine, IMHO. 5.0 quarts should be the capacity.

If your car is stock, you can run most stock parts... I like to keep things looking original. Motorcraft plugs work great.

For your oil question: 5 Quarts (5 bottles) is equal to 4.75 Liters

Synthetic is great, but little leaks will be a lot worse.

I use Mobil 1 synthetic oil and Autolite plugs. Works great for me.

Yes the synthetic is great but you may have a leak with it. I would only use convential oil if I were you. Once you get a leak it just wont stop until you get the seals replaced. You dont need the synthetic anyway. The car didnt come from the factory with synthetic so you dont have to use it. Using a good oil filter is more important the using synthetic oil or not.

My parents gave me their 95 Buick Centry with 135k miles on it. My father said that it had a small oil leak (I forgot where) but I started using Mobil 1 10w-30 and still don't even notice the leak.

whether one will see leaks is much too motor-dependant to put generalities out there. we always warn people that the detergent in the synthetic might reveal leaks that had been plugged with crud from dino oil, but a lot of folks have no issues.

the condition of the motor, the frequency and type of oil used in the past, and maintenance done is more of an indicator as to whether problems will arise, IMHO.

Motorcraft spark plugs and Mobil One Synthetic!

Jekyl said:

How many liters of oil do I need to buy? I dont know how much a 5.0L takes

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5 quarts, I would buy 6 since you are always burning it.

5 quarts, I would buy 6 since you are always burning it.

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I know you mean keep an extra on hand, but I think this warrants being explicitly stated:

Over filling your crankcase with oil is a great way to get your rear main seal to start leaking. You do not want this. Do not put more than 5 quarts of oil into your stock oil pan 5.0L.

I did not mean like a few days down the road put more oil in, but having some extra on hand like you said is a good idea, that is what I meant from the post

With that many miles.....you'll burn a quart of synthetic every 100 miles in all probability and the valvetrain will sound loud as heck tappity tap tap. You have enough piston-bore gap in there with that many miles and enough wear on the valve seals to seriously burn some oil. Try it but it'll leak like a siv and you'll be combusting $5 a quart oil.

I say.....

motorcraft plugs and dino oil. Change the 10w-30 every 1000-1500 miles depending on color. If it looks even dark brown, change it. This will be as good on the engine as synthetic every 3k miles and will cost 1/2 to 1/3 as much.

Dont worry about the 3000 mile thing. Thats for consumers who need an arbitrary figure and dont want to check their oil all the time. If you want to know when you should change the oil definitively, it's all about the color.

My GF's t-bird (302ho) is a viscious leaker. I've seriously overfilled that motor more times than I can count (intentionally despite knowing better) and it runs like a top. Oil never looked foamy, starts right up and the idle never stumbled EXCEPT.....when I didnt overfill it...we forogt to check the level...it got low....real low....and stalled. The case was practicaly dry. So whats better? Oil foam or nothing at all? I say overfill and take the lesser of 2 evils.

Pete, i respectfully disagree. the color of the oil means nothing. black oil means that the oil is doing what it should (suspending contaminates). a UOA is the only way to know how long a given oil can go. most dino oils these days can safely go 5K miles (a UOA being the only way to know for sure).

also, it really depends upon the motor as to whether it will burn or sound noisy. no two are the same by the time they have 100-150K miles.