Electrical Removed smog-vacuum line question

859foxbody

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Jun 9, 2021
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New here. I’ve looked at other threads but i am not seeing an answer to my issue

I have 93lx 5.0, installing the tfs top end kit. I went ahead and removed the smog pump and items that go with it.(kept egr and charcoal canister) New heads are plugged in the rear. Now trying to clean up vacuum lines. The lines near passenger shock tower are briddle and broke. What us the best way to replace the broken green wire in the attached picture? It looks like it feeds the line that goes into the egr . The two smog vacuum lines feed off this as well, assume i can just plug these lines?
 

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foxbodybill89

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Jan 19, 2020
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I also removed all the smog, along with that vacuum block. The two solenoids can just be removed and the wiring harnesses tied up somewhere, they will set codes but not the check engine light. Get a Ford Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual for your year car and study the diagram for those vac lines. I removed all the vacuum lines from that side of the engine and started from scratch without the smog stuff, not that hard to figure out but hard to explain here.
 

Mustang5L5

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I need to look back at my car, but the EGR lines are separate from those lines, which are for the TAD and TAB controlling the air pump bypass and diverter solenoids.

Basically, for the EGR, you have a single line that comes off the vaccum tree on the manifold and goes over to the pass tower area to the EGR regulator, and then a return line that connects to the EGR. I need to check to see if there is a check valve. You can use soft vac line here if you want, or dorman sells replacement hard tubing.

The TAD and TAB can just be unplugged and removed and the vac lines capped as far back as you can trace them. There will be two codes stores, but they do not affect how the engine runs or trip the CEL

Just also be mindful there is an HVAC line that runs to the same general area. It comes off the vaccuum tree of the A/C port and runs over to the pass side. It goes through a check valve and a tee and one line goes into the firewall to "power" the dash vents, and the other line goes into the pass side fender to a vacuum canister. The canister is to hold reserve vacuum so your vents stay in the position when you go WOT.
 
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859foxbody

Member
Jun 9, 2021
12
2
13
41
Cincinnati
I need to look back at my car, but the EGR lines are separate from those lines, which are for the TAD and TAB controlling the air pump bypass and diverter solenoids.

Basically, for the EGR, you have a single line that comes off the vaccum tree on the manifold and goes over to the pass tower area to the EGR regulator, and then a return line that connects to the EGR. I need to check to see if there is a check valve. You can use soft vac line here if you want, or dorman sells replacement hard tubing.

The TAD and TAB can just be unplugged and removed and the vac lines capped as far back as you can trace them. There will be two codes stores, but they do not affect how the engine runs or trip the CEL

Just also be mindful there is an HVAC line that runs to the same general area. It comes off the vaccuum tree of the A/C port and runs over to the pass side. It goes through a check valve and a tee and one line goes into the firewall to "power" the dash vents, and the other line goes into the pass side fender to a vacuum canister. The canister is to hold reserve vacuum so your vents stay in the position when you go WOT.
That’s what makes me think this vacuum cluster in that picture is aftermarket. Two lines ran to the smog valves that i just removed. (assuming i could plug those) . It looks like the other line runs to the upper intake, maybe egr vacuum regulator line?