replacing floor in a '67

TOM B said:

If you have a coupe or fastback and your rockers are good then you will have no problem. If you need to put rockers in then yes you should brace it and yes if you have a convert.

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I agree and only doing one side at a time will help as well.

I'd still place several strategic jack stands under it before cutting.

Sorry I missed that in your first post. Then I would place as much support under the car as I could. These are unit body car and the floor pan trans tunnel is an important part of the structure. You will also have at least one window (windshield or back window) out and while they do not add a great deal of support they do add support.

joners said:

I have the FULL floor pan. Tranny tunnel included.

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Then you need to be very careful the tranny tunnel has a lot of 'beef' in it for structural integrity like the rockers do. I had the floors in my vert done by a shop because I was so paranoid about tweaking the chassis, they have the tools to measure/adjust the 'frame' to factory specs and I let them handle the whole job.

Just a thought, I don't know if you have the skills and equipment to do this or not...I did not, and was willing to pay for the peace-of-mind.

I doubt you'll be able to get it in from underneath considering the stands and bracing you'll have, all that stuff will be in the way. Not saying it is impossible but it is usually done through the windsheild.

Also worth mentioning...close and lock the doors, don't open them until you are done. That will help keep it aligned.

I just finished this jobon a 68. The one piece pan is sweet. We put the car on the rotissori (sp). Solid rockers. The one oiece has to go in through the windshield opening. I did the toe boards first (painful) since they sit under the floor pan. Do you have to do the whole firewall? Cripes.
THe plazma cutter is nice. We had the old pan out in an hour. And we mocked up the pan and I outlined underneath with a sharpie and we took the pan back out to drill 3/8 holes every 2 inches. Then put it back in again and plug welded. I used a porta-power to press each section down flush. (sounds easy doesn't it?)

Turned out beautiful. I'm sold on the one piece pan. It fits great compared to other so called direct replacement panels.

joners said:

We ordered the full firewall, the one thats in there is covered in paint, undercoating, grease, crap and rust!

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Rust requires replacement if it is bad, but all those others just require some elbow grease and a wire-wheel.

The replacement toe panels reach up pretty high. You should see if they cover enough of the firewall to get to good metal.

BarnStang said:

The replacement toe panels reach up pretty high. You should see if they cover enough of the firewall to get to good metal.

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Yes, in fact they make extended versions of the floors for just this reason. If I'm not mistaken you can also buy "toe board" sections for repairing the angled portion of the lower firewall. If you can do that and leave the top half of the factory FW in place you will not have much to fear from twisting the chassis and the install wont be as hard. You'll have some welds to grind off but that's the only cosmetic issue and it just might look better than a full replacement when you finish the paint.

Regarding the SFCs and engine removal...as long as your subframes are perfectly square and aligned when you weld on the connectors it should not matter if the shell is on a rotiserrie or the car is running on it's wheels. Straight and sqare is all that counts AFIAC.