Replacing spark plugs

Logix · May 10, 2008

I'm having a hard time locating the spark plugs in my 2001 Mustang GT. I know that probably sounds crazy. I was going to replace them. Anyone have a diagram or can point me in the right direction? Thanks

Lasik12 · May 10, 2008

Under the fuel rails are the COPs, little black cylinders held on by a screw. Unplug the wires and pull each one off. The plugs are deep in there and at an angle so you'll need some extension. on the passengers side its also easier if you remove the intake tubing, but its not necessary. There should be a link on here somewhere to a good How To site if you search for it.

BEASTang96 · May 10, 2008

i havent tried takin mine out yet, sounds like it could be a little more difficult then i thought. leave it to high technology to make what used to be so basic and turn it into something that takes a college degree to accomplish

Mustang5L5 · May 10, 2008

It's actually pretty easy on the Mustang.

Try doing plugs in a Mercedes or Infinity...talk about a PITA

nyuk98gt · May 10, 2008

Logix:

Pick up a Haynes manual for the car, $20 on-line or at your favorite bookseller. Haynes makes a manual for almost every domestic and popular Japanese car. Lots of pictures, well written procedures, and electrical schematics in the back. The book is a must-have, imo.

Change plugs when the heads are cold, use a tiny dab of anti-seize compound on the threads (don't get it on the electrodes), use a torque wrench(!!!), and put a small dab of dielectric compound in the rubber boot (smear it around with a Q-Tip). Last thing, don't strip the coil-on-plug (COP) hold-down screw!

Run a search here and you'll find tons of threads about plug changing do's and dont's and helpful tips.

GL,

Chris

Logix · May 10, 2008

Thanks for the help. That pointed me in the right direction. I don't need to pull the fuel rails off to get them out do I?

hotstang_46 · May 10, 2008

no you don't need to do anything with the fuel rails....

and fyi......Passenger side, 3rd plug from front.... be very carefull when putting it back in and make sure it's not crossthreaded. I can't tell you how many people I've seen that hap hazardly start screwing and mess up the head. Also make sure to torque down the spark plugs....do a search on here to find out what pressure to do it to. I myself have been victomized by a spark plug blowing out of the head....make sure you do this....it's IMPORTANT do some research you'll see why.

nyuk98gt · May 10, 2008

Logix:

I start threading each plug by hand to prevent cross-threading. Turn the plug LEFT (loosening it) until you feel it "click" a little then turn it right to start tightening it. You should be able to turn the plug by hand until it seats. I do not have access to my trusty Haynes manual for the final torque specification but set your inch-pound torque wrench (SK makes a nice one and it is made in the USA) to about the midway in the range of the spec and torque the plugs. If you don't use a torque wrench, then it is easy for the steel plug threads will simply pull the threads out of the heads.

Chris

the98stang · May 11, 2008

Swap the plugs on a dead cold engine or you'll risk stripping the heads. Use very little anti-seize on the threads and torque them to 13 ft lbs. Check the plugs every 2-3 months and make sure they are still at 13lbs and not backing out of the head.

lvmustanggt · May 11, 2008

Here this will help

http://bullittarchive.com/1017.htm

darkside03gt · May 11, 2008

nyuk98gt said:
Logix:

Pick up a Haynes manual for the car, $20 on-line or at your favorite bookseller. Haynes makes a manual for almost every domestic and popular Japanese car. Lots of pictures, well written procedures, and electrical schematics in the back. The book is a must-have, imo.

Change plugs when the heads are cold, use a tiny dab of anti-seize compound on the threads (don't get it on the electrodes), use a torque wrench(!!!), and put a small dab of dielectric compound in the rubber boot (smear it around with a Q-Tip). Last thing, don't strip the coil-on-plug (COP) hold-down screw!

Run a search here and you'll find tons of threads about plug changing do's and dont's and helpful tips.

GL,

Chris

Iam shocked that you think a haynes manual is a good well written manual. IMOP those things are just guidelines. they do help you figure out alot of things but they leave out alot of the changes that accured from 96-04. in fact the wireing diagram is incorrect if you are comparing it to anything after 01.

Mustang5L5 · May 11, 2008

darkside03gt said:
Iam shocked that you think a haynes manual is a good well written manual. IMOP those things are just guidelines. they do help you figure out alot of things but they leave out alot of the changes that accured from 96-04. in fact the wireing diagram is incorrect if you are comparing it to anything after 01.

I agree. I find a lot of incorrect info in some Haynes or Chilton's manuals.

the98stang · May 11, 2008

Mustang5L5 said:
I agree. I find a lot of incorrect info in some Haynes or Chilton's manuals.

Agreed. Although they are good for torque specs....

urban96 · May 11, 2008

just did mine friday, i pulled the TB/intake tube for easy access

also swapped in accel coils

nyuk98gt · May 12, 2008

Gents:

LOL! OK, I should have been more specific and said, For the '96-'98 model years, , it has lots of pictures, well written procedures, and electrical schematics in the back. The book is a must-have, imo, for the '96-'98 model year Mustangs. I agree that the Haynes manual is designed as a guide, mainly for the weekend wrencher even if it does provide a section or two on engine rebuilding. For the record, I do have the Helm, Inc. shop manual and it is super-duper good.
:grouphug:
Chris

urban96 · May 12, 2008

i had the drivers side done in 10-15 mins its not too hard

Replacing spark plugs

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Replacing spark plugs

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