I'm having a hard time locating the spark plugs in my 2001 Mustang GT. I know that probably sounds crazy. I was going to replace them. Anyone have a diagram or can point me in the right direction? Thanks
Replacing spark plugs
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Lasik12
New Member
Under the fuel rails are the COPs, little black cylinders held on by a screw. Unplug the wires and pull each one off. The plugs are deep in there and at an angle so you'll need some extension. on the passengers side its also easier if you remove the intake tubing, but its not necessary. There should be a link on here somewhere to a good How To site if you search for it.
BEASTang96
New Member
i havent tried takin mine out yet, sounds like it could be a little more difficult then i thought. leave it to high technology to make what used to be so basic and turn it into something that takes a college degree to accomplish
It's actually pretty easy on the Mustang.
Try doing plugs in a Mercedes or Infinity...talk about a PITA
Try doing plugs in a Mercedes or Infinity...talk about a PITA
nyuk98gt
15 Year Member
Logix:
Pick up a Haynes manual for the car, $20 on-line or at your favorite bookseller. Haynes makes a manual for almost every domestic and popular Japanese car. Lots of pictures, well written procedures, and electrical schematics in the back. The book is a must-have, imo.
Change plugs when the heads are cold, use a tiny dab of anti-seize compound on the threads (don't get it on the electrodes), use a torque wrench(!!!), and put a small dab of dielectric compound in the rubber boot (smear it around with a Q-Tip). Last thing, don't strip the coil-on-plug (COP) hold-down screw!
Run a search here and you'll find tons of threads about plug changing do's and dont's and helpful tips.
GL,
Chris
Pick up a Haynes manual for the car, $20 on-line or at your favorite bookseller. Haynes makes a manual for almost every domestic and popular Japanese car. Lots of pictures, well written procedures, and electrical schematics in the back. The book is a must-have, imo.
Change plugs when the heads are cold, use a tiny dab of anti-seize compound on the threads (don't get it on the electrodes), use a torque wrench(!!!), and put a small dab of dielectric compound in the rubber boot (smear it around with a Q-Tip). Last thing, don't strip the coil-on-plug (COP) hold-down screw!
Run a search here and you'll find tons of threads about plug changing do's and dont's and helpful tips.
GL,
Chris
Thanks for the help. That pointed me in the right direction. I don't need to pull the fuel rails off to get them out do I?
hotstang_46
Member
no you don't need to do anything with the fuel rails....
and fyi......Passenger side, 3rd plug from front.... be very carefull when putting it back in and make sure it's not crossthreaded. I can't tell you how many people I've seen that hap hazardly start screwing and mess up the head. Also make sure to torque down the spark plugs....do a search on here to find out what pressure to do it to. I myself have been victomized by a spark plug blowing out of the head....make sure you do this....it's IMPORTANT
do some research you'll see why.
and fyi......Passenger side, 3rd plug from front.... be very carefull when putting it back in and make sure it's not crossthreaded. I can't tell you how many people I've seen that hap hazardly start screwing and mess up the head. Also make sure to torque down the spark plugs....do a search on here to find out what pressure to do it to. I myself have been victomized by a spark plug blowing out of the head....make sure you do this....it's IMPORTANT
do some research you'll see why.
nyuk98gt
15 Year Member
Logix:
I start threading each plug by hand to prevent cross-threading. Turn the plug LEFT (loosening it) until you feel it "click" a little then turn it right to start tightening it. You should be able to turn the plug by hand until it seats. I do not have access to my trusty Haynes manual for the final torque specification but set your inch-pound torque wrench (SK makes a nice one and it is made in the USA) to about the midway in the range of the spec and torque the plugs. If you don't use a torque wrench, then it is easy for the steel plug threads will simply pull the threads out of the heads.
Chris
I start threading each plug by hand to prevent cross-threading. Turn the plug LEFT (loosening it) until you feel it "click" a little then turn it right to start tightening it. You should be able to turn the plug by hand until it seats. I do not have access to my trusty Haynes manual for the final torque specification but set your inch-pound torque wrench (SK makes a nice one and it is made in the USA) to about the midway in the range of the spec and torque the plugs. If you don't use a torque wrench, then it is easy for the steel plug threads will simply pull the threads out of the heads.
Chris
the98stang
Active Member
Swap the plugs on a dead cold engine or you'll risk stripping the heads. Use very little anti-seize on the threads and torque them to 13 ft lbs. Check the plugs every 2-3 months and make sure they are still at 13lbs and not backing out of the head.
lvmustanggt
New Member
Iam shocked that you think a haynes manual is a good well written manual. IMOP those things are just guidelines. they do help you figure out alot of things but they leave out alot of the changes that accured from 96-04. in fact the wireing diagram is incorrect if you are comparing it to anything after 01.
the98stang
Active Member
nyuk98gt
15 Year Member
Gents:
LOL! OK, I should have been more specific and said, For the '96-'98 model years, , it has lots of pictures, well written procedures, and electrical schematics in the back. The book is a must-have, imo, for the '96-'98 model year Mustangs. I agree that the Haynes manual is designed as a guide, mainly for the weekend wrencher even if it does provide a section or two on engine rebuilding. For the record, I do have the Helm, Inc. shop manual and it is super-duper good.
:grouphug:
Chris
LOL! OK, I should have been more specific and said, For the '96-'98 model years, , it has lots of pictures, well written procedures, and electrical schematics in the back. The book is a must-have, imo, for the '96-'98 model year Mustangs. I agree that the Haynes manual is designed as a guide, mainly for the weekend wrencher even if it does provide a section or two on engine rebuilding. For the record, I do have the Helm, Inc. shop manual and it is super-duper good.
:grouphug:
Chris
its not too hardSimilar threads
