She's Running Much Better After Blown Intake Gasket Fix....but I Still Want To ......

from6to8

There's suction so I used that end O_O
15 Year Member
Sep 2, 2012
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After fixing blown intake gasket and putting on new upper gaskets the car seems to be back to normal though I have just driven it about a total of 40 minutes between 2 drives and the second tonite was after retorquing the lower after the first drive. I went ahead and took it down to 20 ft lbs, 2 more than the instructions of 15-18 but being careful though. I have a list of things I will check/tidy up tommorow including resetting the idle and the tps since I had an issue before with getting the car to idle lower than i believe it was 750-before it would cut off. Now that the intake gasket is fixed I will go over alot of things. I will also do a compression test

2. Remove the SP wires from touching the valve covers to see if that is causing any issues though most things I read on google suggest NOT.

3. KOEO and KOER test and cylinder balance test

Later down on the list is :

To possibly check or get the injectors tested to see if they are flowing properly and/or have any issues.

Lastly My car I pretty much am sure its running rich as I can smell fuel, eyes burn just a tad/little not that bad or as bad as it used to be before, clothes just a tad smell like fuel some though it seems to be better since fixing things past few days. So I have to inquire to the Tuners about getting the A/F checked and see about cost to fix it and what all will have to be done since I still want to wait to get another tune when I need motor work done and build a 306 or 331 so i'd rather not get another tune though mine is archaeic from 05 using the old autologic 2000 software.

thoughts and advice guys.......
 
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Also I have the 86-95 chrome valve covers and once inquired about an extension that someone sells and cant remember if it was this forum or where that someone knew of something that could be bought to solve the problem of the annoying trying to get the oil fill cap off because its resting against the cold air tube.

anyone know ?

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Gas smell with E-cam is normal (110° lobe separation: Kamrf will add fuel. Wideband reads with low/medium loads will be inaccurate ... Idle will always be a problem ...) . Very difficult to tune ... Have to disable closed loop and change some things in the tune ... If I were you I would change the cam .
 
Gas smell with E-cam is normal (110° lobe separation: Kamrf will add fuel. Wideband reads with low/medium loads will be inaccurate ... Idle will always be a problem ...) . Very difficult to tune ... Have to disable closed loop and change some things in the tune ... If I were you I would change the cam .
yeah i am going to do some checks late today and tommorow if i dont finish and see if its the rings and also going to check the rocker adjustments. If its the rings I definitely will more than likely go ahead and rebuild to a 331 and there definitely will be an Ed Curtis custom cam or and AFM cam done for it
 
Gas smell with E-cam is normal (110° lobe separation: Kamrf will add fuel. Wideband reads with low/medium loads will be inaccurate ... Idle will always be a problem ...) . Very difficult to tune ... Have to disable closed loop and change some things in the tune ... If I were you I would change the cam .


where'd you come up with that? The e-cam is actually quite capable...i'm runing an e-cam on my turboe'd 333 with none of those issues
 
where'd you come up with that? The e-cam is actually quite capable...i'm runing an e-cam on my turboe'd 333 with none of those issues
i could save money using my E with either the 306 or 331 but everyone has been telling me to get a custom cam for the longest even with my 302. Going 306 or 331 and getting new pistons more than likely, I will let Ed Curtis build me a custom. Hopefully I will be able to get at least .520 if i go 306