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Should i go with 4:10's????

  • Thread starter Thread starter 93stangTN
  • Start date Start date May 19, 2005
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93stangTN

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May 12, 2005
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May 19, 2005
#1
  • May 19, 2005
  • #1
my 93' 5.0 is an automatic, should i go with 4:10 gears??? thats what everyone around here has told me to put in it... what u all think???
 
P

Project89

New Member
Apr 24, 2005
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Panama City, Florida
May 19, 2005
#2
  • May 19, 2005
  • #2
Search the threads, pages of answers for you. BTW just ordered 4.10's for my AOD.
 
1

1Slow5oh

New Member
Mar 24, 2004
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Bartonville, IL
May 19, 2005
#3
  • May 19, 2005
  • #3
Yes, be prepared to experience something youve never had with that AOD: tire spin....hehe
 

diponyou50

Member
Apr 21, 2005
138
11
19
May 19, 2005
#4
  • May 19, 2005
  • #4
mines a 5 speed but i jus got 410s and im loving em
 
S

slow93

New Member
May 3, 2005
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May 19, 2005
#5
  • May 19, 2005
  • #5
i got 4.10s and love em.huge difference from stock
 

5spd GT

"the 5.0 owns all"
Founding Member
Aug 7, 2002
9,516
6
99
Arkansas
May 19, 2005
#6
  • May 19, 2005
  • #6
If this is your daily driver I would get 373's...it will be a major difference from your stock gears. By the way mine used to be a 93 auto to

Go with 373's or 3:55’s on a daily driver (that is my suggestion)...I'll put some info for your gear selection decision. If your worried about "hurting" anything the 373's will technically be better for you over the 410's...

373’s will be more daily driver friendly and if you get boost/nitrous later you won't run out of gear at the track and you will have less traction problems. Some that have actually had both gears were slower at the track with 410's over 373's and some also claimed no seat of the pants difference.

I run 2400 rpm at 70mph (I have 373's)…the 410’s will run higher closer to the 2600-2700rpm range with the 245/50/16’s I have on my car.

Here is how I look at when picking gears for a daily driver...To me the gearing of 410's or steeper on a daily driver is not worth it to me...you get worse gas mileage/more engine wear/and use your shifting components more (clutch/trans/etc)...around town...and I also look at it like this...when your cruising on the highway at 80mph (interstate) your cruising at roughly 3000rpm with 410's...that is HALF your 302's revving capabilities and that is in the overdrived 5th gear at CRUISE...not at WOT...I personally don't like the idea of having half the engines revving capabilities at just cruise. Also...what if an emergency comes up and you got to "get it"...you have to be there for someone or are running to the hospital...and running higher than 80mph...maybe running 4500rpm steadily (faster than 80mph of course)...during that emergency I don't think that would be a good time for your engine to let go on you...what do you think?

Then you have to factor in 410's or steeper cause my engine braking at higher rpms on the highway...go pull out somewhere and hold your car to 2500rpm or so (worse with gears) and feel the engine try to slow you down when you let off the gas...same similar occurance happens on the highway/interstate plus the wind resistance.

I know when I had the slipping clutch problem I could smell the clutch burn at a higher rpm cruise which in my case was comparing 2000rpm to 2500rpm. At the lower rpm I didn’t smell it but the higher rpm I could smell it. Just some things to think about when you think you want every little tenth out of your car (4:10’s)…I prefer a better overall performance personally…

Go 373's...I would rather want more (373's to 410's) than get to much (410's) and want less (373's)...get what I'm saying?

There will also be less drivetrain shock under traction with 373's over 410's...

The problem with 410's in an AOD is you only have 3 gears to work with at the track (effective gears anyways) and the gears will get you out of those gears quicker and you could lose your gearing powerband at the track.

Also if they were to convert to a t5 (pretty popular actually) then they are "stuck" with the higher revving 410's...I hate the "winding out" sound on the highway with a gear like that...

On the listing of "pros/cons" of a mod like gears. I have stressed that in a couple choice threads, for example on shorty vs. longtube headers. Longtubes will get a better midranging power over the shortys (so the pro is more power) but some forget to mention the cons of it which are buying a matching mid-pipe (more money and aren't able to use the stock mid-pipe) along with ground clearance issues (especially on a lower car) and also the difficulty of install is "stepped up" quite a bit when trying to get longtubes in. It also can cause heat-soak issues and steering column clearance/rubbing issues. The potential purchaser has to ask themself is the extra midrange worth it? Then you get your answer...

So I ask...are the 410's (a tenth or two quicker at track to a matched combo over 373's) worth it? (more engine/drivetrain wear/worse gas mileage/and a couple other "cons" listed above in my post)...again the potential driver/purchaser has got to ask themselves what they want

willys1 (member on this site) actually was slower at the track in his bolt-on car with 410's than he was with 373's...

To often people go "drive" a friend's car with gears and go have fun in the car and don't drive it normally or thing of longterm effects with normal driving. They often just use their SOTP meter to determine what gear they want but when a final gear ratio effects all different parts of you and your car...I think it is best to not try a gear ratio "drag strip style" but "daily driver style"...

I have rode and drove in every car except one with 4:56’s and I see easily how the 4:10’s and especially 4:30’s are overkill for a daily driver. One trip on the interstate will let you know…

Also on the 200rpm difference (I actually think it is a bit more) but to put that into perspective since I ride at 2400rpm at 70mph I run 2600rpm at 80mph but that is a "big" difference in the feel of the car. Just as well you will be even more limited with the 410's pushing nearly 3000rpm just at cruise Every time I drive on the interstate with the 373's I just can't imagine having 4:10's…

Again good luck with your choice
 

Grn92LX

Fidanza Man!
Founding Member
Jan 14, 2001
6,819
64
129
New York
May 19, 2005
#7
  • May 19, 2005
  • #7
Definatly 4.10's for that aod car. My friend has 4.10's in his daily driver 87GT and loves them. He's around 2500 rpm on the highway at 70.
 

cjman15

Banned
Apr 15, 2004
1,009
0
0
Fairfield, PA
May 19, 2005
#8
  • May 19, 2005
  • #8
5spd GT said:
If this is your daily driver I would get 373's...it will be a major difference from your stock gears. By the way mine used to be a 93 auto to

Go with 373's or 3:55’s on a daily driver (that is my suggestion)...I'll put some info for your gear selection decision. If your worried about "hurting" anything the 373's will technically be better for you over the 410's...

373’s will be more daily driver friendly and if you get boost/nitrous later you won't run out of gear at the track and you will have less traction problems. Some that have actually had both gears were slower at the track with 410's over 373's and some also claimed no seat of the pants difference.

I run 2400 rpm at 70mph (I have 373's)…the 410’s will run higher closer to the 2600-2700rpm range with the 245/50/16’s I have on my car.

Here is how I look at when picking gears for a daily driver...To me the gearing of 410's or steeper on a daily driver is not worth it to me...you get worse gas mileage/more engine wear/and use your shifting components more (clutch/trans/etc)...around town...and I also look at it like this...when your cruising on the highway at 80mph (interstate) your cruising at roughly 3000rpm with 410's...that is HALF your 302's revving capabilities and that is in the overdrived 5th gear at CRUISE...not at WOT...I personally don't like the idea of having half the engines revving capabilities at just cruise. Also...what if an emergency comes up and you got to "get it"...you have to be there for someone or are running to the hospital...and running higher than 80mph...maybe running 4500rpm steadily (faster than 80mph of course)...during that emergency I don't think that would be a good time for your engine to let go on you...what do you think?

Then you have to factor in 410's or steeper cause my engine braking at higher rpms on the highway...go pull out somewhere and hold your car to 2500rpm or so (worse with gears) and feel the engine try to slow you down when you let off the gas...same similar occurance happens on the highway/interstate plus the wind resistance.

I know when I had the slipping clutch problem I could smell the clutch burn at a higher rpm cruise which in my case was comparing 2000rpm to 2500rpm. At the lower rpm I didn’t smell it but the higher rpm I could smell it. Just some things to think about when you think you want every little tenth out of your car (4:10’s)…I prefer a better overall performance personally…

Go 373's...I would rather want more (373's to 410's) than get to much (410's) and want less (373's)...get what I'm saying?

There will also be less drivetrain shock under traction with 373's over 410's...

The problem with 410's in an AOD is you only have 3 gears to work with at the track (effective gears anyways) and the gears will get you out of those gears quicker and you could lose your gearing powerband at the track.

Also if they were to convert to a t5 (pretty popular actually) then they are "stuck" with the higher revving 410's...I hate the "winding out" sound on the highway with a gear like that...

On the listing of "pros/cons" of a mod like gears. I have stressed that in a couple choice threads, for example on shorty vs. longtube headers. Longtubes will get a better midranging power over the shortys (so the pro is more power) but some forget to mention the cons of it which are buying a matching mid-pipe (more money and aren't able to use the stock mid-pipe) along with ground clearance issues (especially on a lower car) and also the difficulty of install is "stepped up" quite a bit when trying to get longtubes in. It also can cause heat-soak issues and steering column clearance/rubbing issues. The potential purchaser has to ask themself is the extra midrange worth it? Then you get your answer...

So I ask...are the 410's (a tenth or two quicker at track to a matched combo over 373's) worth it? (more engine/drivetrain wear/worse gas mileage/and a couple other "cons" listed above in my post)...again the potential driver/purchaser has got to ask themselves what they want

willys1 (member on this site) actually was slower at the track in his bolt-on car with 410's than he was with 373's...

To often people go "drive" a friend's car with gears and go have fun in the car and don't drive it normally or thing of longterm effects with normal driving. They often just use their SOTP meter to determine what gear they want but when a final gear ratio effects all different parts of you and your car...I think it is best to not try a gear ratio "drag strip style" but "daily driver style"...

I have rode and drove in every car except one with 4:56’s and I see easily how the 4:10’s and especially 4:30’s are overkill for a daily driver. One trip on the interstate will let you know…

Also on the 200rpm difference (I actually think it is a bit more) but to put that into perspective since I ride at 2400rpm at 70mph I run 2600rpm at 80mph but that is a "big" difference in the feel of the car. Just as well you will be even more limited with the 410's pushing nearly 3000rpm just at cruise Every time I drive on the interstate with the 373's I just can't imagine having 4:10's…

Again good luck with your choice
Click to expand...

jesus christ, write a book for cryin' out loud.......haha
 
B

BaXTeR3221

Member
Jan 12, 2004
917
0
16
Orange County, NY
May 19, 2005
#9
  • May 19, 2005
  • #9
There are about 396736 threads about this. Go with the 4.10's. If you want something lower, try 3.90's.
 

cjman15

Banned
Apr 15, 2004
1,009
0
0
Fairfield, PA
May 19, 2005
#10
  • May 19, 2005
  • #10
4.10s should've been standard in AODs... it's the only thing that helps them haha
 

cleanLX

Founding Member
Jan 17, 2001
976
537
144
May 19, 2005
#11
  • May 19, 2005
  • #11
it depends on what you are doing with the car.

while 5spdGT is pro 3.37's, he does make good points, and his rpm/mph cals are accurate.

I love my 4.10's, but my T5'd mustang is not used for long highway journeys... other than getting to the track... and I travel in the right hand lane.
 

willys1

Active Member
Dec 2, 2003
1,004
1
36
New Jersey
May 19, 2005
#12
  • May 19, 2005
  • #12
5spd GT said:
If this is your daily driver I would get 373's...it will be a major difference from your stock gears. By the way mine used to be a 93 auto to

Go with 373's or 3:55’s on a daily driver (that is my suggestion)...I'll put some info for your gear selection decision. If your worried about "hurting" anything the 373's will technically be better for you over the 410's...

373’s will be more daily driver friendly and if you get boost/nitrous later you won't run out of gear at the track and you will have less traction problems. Some that have actually had both gears were slower at the track with 410's over 373's and some also claimed no seat of the pants difference.

I run 2400 rpm at 70mph (I have 373's)…the 410’s will run higher closer to the 2600-2700rpm range with the 245/50/16’s I have on my car.

Here is how I look at when picking gears for a daily driver...To me the gearing of 410's or steeper on a daily driver is not worth it to me...you get worse gas mileage/more engine wear/and use your shifting components more (clutch/trans/etc)...around town...and I also look at it like this...when your cruising on the highway at 80mph (interstate) your cruising at roughly 3000rpm with 410's...that is HALF your 302's revving capabilities and that is in the overdrived 5th gear at CRUISE...not at WOT...I personally don't like the idea of having half the engines revving capabilities at just cruise. Also...what if an emergency comes up and you got to "get it"...you have to be there for someone or are running to the hospital...and running higher than 80mph...maybe running 4500rpm steadily (faster than 80mph of course)...during that emergency I don't think that would be a good time for your engine to let go on you...what do you think?

Then you have to factor in 410's or steeper cause my engine braking at higher rpms on the highway...go pull out somewhere and hold your car to 2500rpm or so (worse with gears) and feel the engine try to slow you down when you let off the gas...same similar occurance happens on the highway/interstate plus the wind resistance.

I know when I had the slipping clutch problem I could smell the clutch burn at a higher rpm cruise which in my case was comparing 2000rpm to 2500rpm. At the lower rpm I didn’t smell it but the higher rpm I could smell it. Just some things to think about when you think you want every little tenth out of your car (4:10’s)…I prefer a better overall performance personally…

Go 373's...I would rather want more (373's to 410's) than get to much (410's) and want less (373's)...get what I'm saying?

There will also be less drivetrain shock under traction with 373's over 410's...

The problem with 410's in an AOD is you only have 3 gears to work with at the track (effective gears anyways) and the gears will get you out of those gears quicker and you could lose your gearing powerband at the track.

Also if they were to convert to a t5 (pretty popular actually) then they are "stuck" with the higher revving 410's...I hate the "winding out" sound on the highway with a gear like that...

On the listing of "pros/cons" of a mod like gears. I have stressed that in a couple choice threads, for example on shorty vs. longtube headers. Longtubes will get a better midranging power over the shortys (so the pro is more power) but some forget to mention the cons of it which are buying a matching mid-pipe (more money and aren't able to use the stock mid-pipe) along with ground clearance issues (especially on a lower car) and also the difficulty of install is "stepped up" quite a bit when trying to get longtubes in. It also can cause heat-soak issues and steering column clearance/rubbing issues. The potential purchaser has to ask themself is the extra midrange worth it? Then you get your answer...

So I ask...are the 410's (a tenth or two quicker at track to a matched combo over 373's) worth it? (more engine/drivetrain wear/worse gas mileage/and a couple other "cons" listed above in my post)...again the potential driver/purchaser has got to ask themselves what they want

willys1 (member on this site) actually was slower at the track in his bolt-on car with 410's than he was with 373's...

To often people go "drive" a friend's car with gears and go have fun in the car and don't drive it normally or thing of longterm effects with normal driving. They often just use their SOTP meter to determine what gear they want but when a final gear ratio effects all different parts of you and your car...I think it is best to not try a gear ratio "drag strip style" but "daily driver style"...

I have rode and drove in every car except one with 4:56’s and I see easily how the 4:10’s and especially 4:30’s are overkill for a daily driver. One trip on the interstate will let you know…

Also on the 200rpm difference (I actually think it is a bit more) but to put that into perspective since I ride at 2400rpm at 70mph I run 2600rpm at 80mph but that is a "big" difference in the feel of the car. Just as well you will be even more limited with the 410's pushing nearly 3000rpm just at cruise Every time I drive on the interstate with the 373's I just can't imagine having 4:10's…

Again good luck with your choice
Click to expand...
Holy sh@t Dave,,are we bored today ,,,and yes,he is using me as one of his examples..My stang is 2 tenths faster in the 1/4 mile with 373's..I have 410's in rite now because they are so much fun around town..If you can keep it 2500rpm's or lower on the highway you will still get over 20 mpg!! Ive been up over a 100mph plenty of times,its not a problem,but it does burn alot of gas doing that Im putting back my 373's because,ahhhhh,,Im not sure,but I wanna see how it affects my 1/4 mile times,Ive had a few bolt ons since they were in last You cant go wrong with either gear..But I'LL save you some money and say to get the 410's,because if you get the 373's your gonna wish you went 410's,believe me!!!
 

N8Miller

I need NOS....make it 2 of the big ones
Founding Member
Jul 26, 2000
2,661
0
0
Kingston, PA, USA
May 19, 2005
#13
  • May 19, 2005
  • #13
Grn92LX said:
Definatly 4.10's for that aod car. My friend has 4.10's in his daily driver 87GT and loves them. He's around 2500 rpm on the highway at 70.
Click to expand...

yes.

going 4.10s in that is like 3.73s in a 5spd. no reason not to do it.
 

90mustangGT

I felt sorry for girls because
Founding Member
Jan 15, 2002
2,773
17
89
Dallas, GA
May 19, 2005
#14
  • May 19, 2005
  • #14
Wait, let me put my book on the stand!!!

Go 4.10, if it's too much for you, or you start running out of gear before track, get a taller tire, which will improve traction as well.

2.73 - 3.08 = .35 difference
3.08 - 3.27 = .19 difference
2.27 - 3.55 = .28 difference
3.55 - 3.73 = .16 difference
3.73 - 4.10 = .37 difference

As you can see, the jump from ratio to ratio isn't a steady step. You probally have 2.73 gears now:

2.73 - 3.73 = 1.00 whole rotation, aproximatly 27% reduction.
2.73 - 4.10 = 1.37 rotation, aproxiatly 33% reduction.

Really not that much. Take in considereation that your rpm's are going to read 5% higher with 4.10's. If you do the math, once overdrive is taken in consideration, it's only a few 100rpm.

It's about torque multiplication. Take engine torque, multiply your first gear ratio, times your final drive ratio, gives you your torque at the wheel itself. Example is a T5 car, but that is the ratio I know:
300TQ x 3.35 first gear x 3.73 = 3748.65 lbs of thrust.
Same ratio but with a 4.10 gear = 4120.5 lbs of thrust.
A considerable difference. Now consider this is on a 3200lbs car, the thrust to weight ratio is much greater with 4.10's at 1.28lbs of thrust per pound of car, while with 3.73's you will get 1.17lbs of thrust per pound of car. That is 9% more thrust in the low gear but only 5% higher in revves! To me, that makes it all worth it. Will this make a huge difference, no, but you bought the car for that punch, why now get all you can.
 

ramjetlx

New Member
Apr 8, 2005
212
0
0
Honolulu, Hawaii
May 20, 2005
#15
  • May 20, 2005
  • #15
Just get the 4.10's if you wont you use nitrous or a supercharger. I cruise at 2000 rpms in OD on the freeway, before I toasted it. I do run out of gear with the nitrous so be careful. It does waste gas a little more, but stick in an upgraded stall you will notice a big difference. Its worth it!! Thats one of the first things that should be changed on an AOD, gears and converter. Every car is different, so your rpms not be the same as mine or others. Too many factors such as tires and engine combo change it.....
 

Scott_95GT

New Member
Oct 8, 2004
387
0
0
Sacramento
May 20, 2005
#16
  • May 20, 2005
  • #16
Personally, I would go with 3:73's on a daily driver. I am not against 4:10's at all, it's just from my experiences, 3:73's are plenty of gear for the street, and especially on the freeway.
If you frequent the drag strip, and don't mind higher freeway cruise rpm's, go with the 4:10's, but I think you like the 3:73's.
Or you could compromise and get some 3:90's. Good luck. Which ever you get, you will LOVE over stock.
 

5spd GT

"the 5.0 owns all"
Founding Member
Aug 7, 2002
9,516
6
99
Arkansas
May 20, 2005
#17
  • May 20, 2005
  • #17
ramjetlx said:
Every car is different, so your rpms not be the same as mine or others.
Click to expand...

I'm pretty sure you weren't at 2000rpm if you ACTUALLY had 410's...

The only thing that is going to change an rpm is your tires if your comparing AOD to AOD...not "every" car is different...you will have the same relative cruising rpm...
 

ramjetlx

New Member
Apr 8, 2005
212
0
0
Honolulu, Hawaii
May 21, 2005
#18
  • May 21, 2005
  • #18
5spd GT said:
I'm pretty sure you weren't at 2000rpm if you ACTUALLY had 410's...

The only thing that is going to change an rpm is your tires if your comparing AOD to AOD...not "every" car is different...you will have the same relative cruising rpm...
Click to expand...


Yes I am at 2000 rpm's at 55mphs in OD. I do have 4.10's in my car. Please dont make the mistake of telling someone they dont have something in their car, especially if you dont know them. I did mention tire size has an effect on the gear ratio also, I was trying to say there can be a difference.
 

WantaGT

Member
Jul 13, 2003
336
0
16
ohio
May 21, 2005
#19
  • May 21, 2005
  • #19
where do you live where you only cruise 55 on the freeway? just curious, they're all 65 around here and with 4.10's i believe, if i remember correctly, the jump from 55 to 65 is app. 18%. Seems a little skewed when we're talking "freeway" speeds, which in most cases, is not 55. BTW no flame intended just bringing up another point to help settle your and 5spd's dispute.
 

5spd GT

"the 5.0 owns all"
Founding Member
Aug 7, 2002
9,516
6
99
Arkansas
May 22, 2005
#20
  • May 22, 2005
  • #20
ramjetlx said:
Yes I am at 2000 rpm's at 55mphs in OD. I do have 4.10's in my car. Please dont make the mistake of telling someone they dont have something in their car, especially if you dont know them. I did mention tire size has an effect on the gear ratio also, I was trying to say there can be a difference.
Click to expand...

Umm...just so you know...the FREEWAY is commonly 70mph...just a FYI

Now you make sense...
 
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