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Small Power Steering Leak

  • Thread starter Thread starter Dan02gt
  • Start date Start date Jul 18, 2017

Dan02gt

mazing how much gas smell came from that tiny hole
20+ Year Stangneter
Mar 2, 2003
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Greenville, NC
Jul 18, 2017
#1
  • Jul 18, 2017
  • #1
Guys I've noticed that I have a small leak on my high pressure hose where it connects to the pump. The previous owner replaced both the pump and hose so both are only a few years old. What you do guys recommend to fix it? Should I replace the high pressure hose or try to change the O-rings out?
 

a91what

SendMeUrDataLog
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Jul 18, 2017
#2
  • Jul 18, 2017
  • #2
Check the o rings first, may be a simple fix.
 

BlakeusMaximus

Still got to try a little lube on my speedo head
5 Year Member
Jul 12, 2017
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Jul 18, 2017
#3
  • Jul 18, 2017
  • #3
I replaced the line to my pump and haven't had an issue, the new line came with the correct o ring.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
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Jul 18, 2017
#4
  • Jul 18, 2017
  • #4
I forget if the pump side was O-ring only, or had the Teflon seal as well, but I'd replace what is there.

A new line is pretty damn cheap though
 

Dan02gt

mazing how much gas smell came from that tiny hole
20+ Year Stangneter
Mar 2, 2003
909
415
113
Greenville, NC
Jul 18, 2017
#5
  • Jul 18, 2017
  • #5
Thanks guys. I was thinking o-rings first but can't really seem to find a power steering kit that says they are included. Any one know the proper O-rings?
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
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Jul 18, 2017
#6
  • Jul 18, 2017
  • #6
I know dorman sells a kit for the Teflon washers for the rack fittings, but the O-rings aren't available as a kit. I believe they are standard dash-number O-rings, but unsure of the sizes. Can you remove them and take some measurements and compare with an O-ring chart
 

Noobz347

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#7
  • Jul 18, 2017
  • #7
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...85,steering,power+steering+pressure+hose,7320



Length (mm) 1031
Length (In) 40.6
End 1 Fitting Type Swivel O-Ring
End 2 Fitting Type Swivel O-Ring
End 2 Fitting Size (mm) 16
Hose Material 1 CSM
Bracket (Y/N) N
End 1 Fitting Size (in) 9/16
PS Switch Port (Y/N) N
Alternate/OEM Part Number(s): F0ZC3A715BA, F0ZZ3A719B

They also have them in 41 3/4 in. long.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,167
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Jul 18, 2017
#8
  • Jul 18, 2017
  • #8
Longer one I believe is for non-A/C applications as the PS pump is located higher
 

jrichker

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Jul 18, 2017
#9
  • Jul 18, 2017
  • #9
Each hose uses an O ring on each end to seal them. The hoses will swivel when they are installed and tightened into place. That is why there are O rings on the fittings. The O ring is the part that actually makes the pressure seal. If you slide the nut all the way back as far as it will go, you will see the O ring and the groove cut into the center section of the fitting. The auto parts stores I tried seemed to have a problem finding the correct O ring for the pump end high pressure fitting. I had persistent leaks until I gave up and replaced the hose assembly.


Sometimes you will get some white Teflon rings with the pump or rack. The rings go on the threaded part of the fitting to reduce or prevent small leaks. They are not meant to seal the pressure part of the line or substitute for the rubber O ring. Heat the white Teflon seals in hot water and they will be easier to install. You can install the fittings without them and not have any leaks if the O rings seal good.



The return hoses are all low pressure and are most commonly secured to the pump and associated plumbing with worm gear hose clamps. After a while they will frequently soften up at the end where they are clamped, and should be replaced. The auto parts store will sell you hose by the foot and it takes about 3 feet or less, depending if you have the fluid cooler in the low pressure side of the line.

You may find it is easier to drop the rack down to get to the hose fittings. If you try and do it with the rack in place it takes about 20 minutes per fitting to loosen them with a fancy Snap-On 45/65 degree angle head open end wrench. Putting them back on takes even longer. To drop the steering rack, the flex coupling for the steering shaft needs to be disconnected before you can get the rack out. You should disassemble the coupling by undoing the 2 bolts that hold it together.

Remove the two bolts that bolt the rack assembly to the frame and then pull the rack down. Get a catch pan to dump the fluid in when you disconnect the hydraulic lines. I replaced the rack mount bushings with some Energy Suspension urethane ones. When you re-install the rack assembly, put the rear bushings in the rack assembly and lift it into place. Then install the front bushings & washers and tighten down the nuts. Doing it this way makes room for the hydraulic lines without having them bind against the frame.

Copied from Chythar:

There are Teflon rings at either end of the hose. ALWAYS replace teflon washer if high pressure line is removed! The washer deforms to seal and will not seal properly again. The teflon washer on nut between high pressure hose & pump is part number 388898-S. You can buy it from Ford dealership, for approx $2. The teflon washer between the high pressure hose and steering rack is 388897-S, I forget the cost, but it's about the same as the other washer.

You'll also need a teflon seal installer/spreader tool, or some way to stretch the teflon washer a bit without damaging it. If you don't, it'll be really hard to get the washer on and you might damage it.
 

Dan02gt

mazing how much gas smell came from that tiny hole
20+ Year Stangneter
Mar 2, 2003
909
415
113
Greenville, NC
Jul 19, 2017
#10
  • Jul 19, 2017
  • #10
Thanks for all the info guys. I think I will just order a replacement high pressure line.
 

Noobz347

Stangnet Facilities Maint Tech... Er... Janitor
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#11
  • Jul 19, 2017
  • #11
Yup
 
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