Progress Thread My centrifugal ppl, how’s this deal?

[General karthief]

What happens is the hose connected to the bleeder is submerged in brake fluid so when you push the peddle down air comes out, release the peddle and fluid is sucked up into the hose/brake line/caliper.
this works well unless the system has no fluid in the lines, then you should gravity bleed first.
thats my experience anyway, which is not to be confused with anyone with actual mechanical ability.

 

[Reddevil91]

What happens is the hose connected to the bleeder is submerged in brake fluid so when you push the peddle down air comes out, release the peddle and fluid is sucked up into the hose/brake line/caliper.
this works well unless the system has no fluid in the lines, then you should gravity bleed first.
thats my experience anyway, which is not to be confused with anyone with actual mechanical ability.

Yeah so I kind of did that I guess. So first I bench bleed the Mc which I guess I did right idk. Then before I did any actual trying to bleed, I filled the Mc, opened all the valves on the brakes and let it go to gravity. Guess that was about an hour bc I forgot. Only the front drivers side had any fluid dripping but I’m guessing bc that’s the shortest distance from the Mc? Idk? Any ways I’m headed home and I’ll try different techniques later tonight. On the pump I have I used a small hose inside the cup so technically it’s not submerged, does that matter?

 

[General karthief]

When bench bleeding you have to submerge the lines into the mc bowl and pump until you see no bubbles.
When gravity bleeding, when you get fluid at a bleeder, close it leaving the others open untill they show fluid, leave the top off the mc of course. You may have to jack the front of the car up a little to get the mc above the brake line that runs along the fire wall.

 

[Reddevil91]

Ok so tried a different method instead of the mitivac. This time I used a bottle, with a vent hole. Tried a smaller hose on the bleeder and cracked it open a little less. Not seeing anymore air bubbles in the fluid that is in the line should it be pushing fluid all the way down or am I solid where am at in this video?


View: https://youtu.be/hsNvik521dA

 

[Mustang5L5]

With the bleeder cracked open like that, pump the pedal a few times slowly. Then close bleeder. That's usually all I do and it works well.

Then with all bleeders closed, pump the pedal. Should be rock solid and not move at all.

 

[Reddevil91]

With the bleeder cracked open like that, pump the pedal a few times slowly. Then close bleeder. That's usually all I do and it works well.

Then with all bleeders closed, pump the pedal. Should be rock solid and not move at all.

Ok so carried on to rear driver, front passenger and then front driver. Pedal now with all bleeders closed feels solid, has just a very slight give then boom it’s hard. Think I will redo the steps one more time from the beginning RP, RD, FP, FD just to flush it all one more time and I’d say it should be good to go!! I hope. At this point havent seen any leaks from any points, so hopefully after the second bleed round I’ll be done with it

 

[Reddevil91]

Ok so @Mustang5L5 is this little piece as simple as just placing it one here or is there more I should do? So I tightened the bolt and pulled the e brake so I could stretch the cables. Now I’m just gonna release and then tighten up the slack. How tight should this be?


View: https://youtu.be/3W87LjF_Jmk

 

[Mustang5L5]

That's pretty much all you need to do. It locks the self adjuster so the same as if you welded it.

It might take weeks for the cables to stretch. Basically tighten it up with rear wheels up to the point where the rear wheels don't drag. In a couple months you might notice having to pull the handle higher and that when you'll need to retighten.

You may want to trim off a bit of the threaded rod when you get everything set as the tip tends to bounce off the driveshaft over bumps.

 

[Reddevil91]

That's pretty much all you need to do. It locks the self adjuster so the same as if you welded it.

It might take weeks for the cables to stretch. Basically tighten it up with rear wheels up to the point where the rear wheels don't drag. In a couple months you might notice having to pull the handle higher and that when you'll need to retighten.

You may want to trim off a bit of the threaded rod when you get everything set as the tip tends to bounce off the driveshaft over bumps.

I was wondering about that as it seemed a little long, could I just use my cut off wheel or will that mess up the thread. Oh ok so back to the prop valve, I still have it open fully. So noticed one small leak from the FD caliper which I tightened the the bolt the connects the hose to the caliper. Pedal still feels tight, a litttle give then hard. Should i redo the bleed just in case air got in where I found the leak and I’ve never messed with a valve before. I’ve read usually about half closed is good but what I’m I looking for feel wise in the pedal.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Tighten it up and do a quick bleed in case.

Cut off the end of the rod. With the nuts on there it should fix the thread if you ever weee to back it off.

As to where to set the prop valve, there's no concrete answer as every car is different. Less pressure is safer, but it will depend on vehicle weight, grip etc. I never drive in rain, so my rear setting is probably more aggressive than someone who would daily drive in snow/rain for example

 

[Reddevil91]

So been slowly getting this brake bleed down, kept having issues with my front driver even after I had slightly tightened up the bolt on the caliper where it was leaking. Finally tightened it up some more last night after trying to bleed it and still getting air. Think I’ve got it all squared away now. Been needing to change out my spark plugs and wires which I want to say they have been on the car since before I garaged it hmm about 15 years ago. Got them pulled out, besides the obvious rust how do I tell if there is any issues are far not burning well, etc or are these just to hard to tell. Wanted to wait till I swapped my heads to put the new plugs, wires, cap and rotor, and coil but I could tell before I started my brake swap the car was running not so great.

 

[90sickfox]

Those plugs will be a little harder to read because of the age. I can tell you they aren't burning right. Looks to be oil on them....

This may help you out some...

 

[Reddevil91]

Those plugs will be a little harder to read because of the age. I can tell you they aren't burning right. Looks to be oil on them....

This may help you out some...

Guess they do look oil fouled according to this picture diagram. Are you saying they aren’t burning right bc of this oil on them? What would be causing that oil to be on them?

 

[90sickfox]

The oil on them could come from several things. I've even seen bad gas cause spark plugs to look dark and oily. If a car isn't started and driven long enough it can also cause bad readings on the plugs.

Best thing to do is to put new plugs in and drive it a bit. Pull the new plugs and read them again.

Those cylinders will need to get to operating temps and through some load cycles ( driving ) before you can get an accurate reading.

If it wasn't smoking out the tail pipes, i wouldn't worry about what your seeing on those old plugs.

 

[Reddevil91]

The oil on them could come from several things. I've even seen bad gas cause spark plugs to look dark and oily. If a car isn't started and driven long enough it can also cause bad readings on the plugs.

Best thing to do is to put new plugs in and drive it a bit. Pull the new plugs and read them again.

Those cylinders will need to get to operating temps and through some load cycles ( driving ) before you can get an accurate reading.

If it wasn't smoking out the tail pipes, i wouldn't worry about what your seeing on those old plugs.

So no smoke but car had been sitting for many years, I’d just crank it up in the garage to turn it over and at one pint I was surprised bc I was sure the gas was a few years old. Car traveled with me from tx, ga, tn, and now back in tx. I took it for a spin before starting this brake swap and no smoke, or any start up issues. Just noticed it kinda of boggy and sluggish with a couple of backfires, but hasn’t had a tune up since I had first garaged it back in 2003. Honestly they smell more of gas then they do oil but idk.

 

[stanglx2002]

Just sounds like you need new plugs and a tune up would be good for it in the future. Clean the points on the distributor cap until then should help as well.

 

[90sickfox]

I dont think you have any major issues going on then.

 

[Reddevil91]

Cool guys thanks, so what I’m doing is new plugs gapped at .65 with the screamin demon coil, live wires, and a new msd cap and rotor. So my coil plug is ragged and I bought a new one from lmr but I don’t know why there is two green wires, can anyone explain that? Other than that just swapped my trans mount and cross member bushings as well while I had the car up still.

 

[General karthief]

Primary ignition and secondary ignition?
Thats just a guess, I'll consult my magic book.

 

[General karthief]

The red/green wire comes from the ignition switch, the other is tfi. The connector you show has two green wires on the tfi side, unpin your wires and slip them into the new connector.