I used the same coil harness and just used some cutters to cut off the extra green wire flush with the connector.
Progress Thread My centrifugal ppl, how’s this deal?
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- Mar 3, 2010
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I was thinking about doing that. You didn’t have any issues doing so? Weird they would make it with double wire.
- Mar 3, 2010
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Couple of questions, do you all actually torque the spark plugs? Don’t see how I could unless I got a smaller torque wrench. Figured a nice snug would be enough? Also i need to add my fluid in the rear diff. Is this my drain plug? If so how the heck do I get that out?
That is the fill plug, you drain it by taking off the cover, I wonder why the put it there, makes it hard on the diy shade tree guys like me, I stick a hose on the end of the bottle and squeeze, yes I have made a mess a time or two when the hose pops off.
- Mar 3, 2010
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Ha I know that a strange spot. I bought a pump but of course it doesn’t end up fitting in the quart bottle. I cleaned out an old brake fluid container real good and the pump fits that. Thinking about pouring into that one and going for it. But back to the plug how do you unscrew it?
- Mar 3, 2010
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First the plug, 3/8 drive ratchet and a short extension, the 3/8 drive fits in the square hole.
now they make those rotors bigger so they can charge you more
now they make those rotors bigger so they can charge you more
- Mar 2, 2015
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The MSD has extra plastic to " balance" the rotor.
For the drain plug i just use a 3/8 ratchet. Found out one of these jelps alot with filling....
Just unscrew it....fill it...and push the plunger.
The aftermarket aluminum diff covers usually have a drain plug built into them. They'll set you back about 150 bucks though.
I've seen people drill and tap the rear housing to install a drain plug. I've never done it and have no idea if it would compromise the strength. A couple guys i used to hang with did it on their cars and to my knowledge they didnt have issues.
For the drain plug i just use a 3/8 ratchet. Found out one of these jelps alot with filling....
Just unscrew it....fill it...and push the plunger.
The aftermarket aluminum diff covers usually have a drain plug built into them. They'll set you back about 150 bucks though.
I've seen people drill and tap the rear housing to install a drain plug. I've never done it and have no idea if it would compromise the strength. A couple guys i used to hang with did it on their cars and to my knowledge they didnt have issues.
- Mar 3, 2010
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Alright alright alright!! More progress today, trans mount and cross memeber bushings changed, rear diff has been filled just used the old brake fluid container after cleaning it out well and used my fluid pump I bought at harbor to pump it in it went quick and smooth. Just kept going until it started dribbling back out. Got 2 quarts in of royal purp with one bottle of friction mod added. Also changed plugs, wires, cap & rotor, got rid of the rad holders and went with the steeda bracket holder, removed the hood prop and installed some MRT hood struts. I decided to run the fuse for the upgraded 3g alternator kit under the battery tray were it contours up and it fit nicely, like it out of the way, instead of mounted to the fender well like LMR put it near the battery. It’s coming together!! Also on the new coil plug I looked on LMR to see how others did it with the second green wire, any ideas on these pics if this works and is ok to do???
- Mar 3, 2010
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- Mar 3, 2010
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Sorry for the mass inputs but wondering what all I need to get my GT40 intake on. Can I use anything from the stock intake setup? Here are some pics of the intake just not sure what all I need to piece it together and make it work. Also I have some tall trick flow valve covers, do I need the intake spacer and of so should I go 3/8 or 1in? Seen some on LMR that come with gaskets, spacer and hardware.
- Jul 12, 2017
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looks like you got the intake stuff covered, I don't know about the spacer, I had to use a 3/4 or 1' spacer with stock valve covers because of that pcv connection. mine barley fits under the stock hood.
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Idk yet it was just the cap and rotor so hopefully no issues. I read that supposedly the rotor has been hitting in the cap for some people, hoping I don’t have that issue. Haven’t cranked the car on as of yet. One of the blue sleeves for my cai is torn where it connects to the TB so I couldn’t install it yet, need to find some new ones.
- Mar 3, 2010
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Ok so got the tires mounted on the passenger side and then noticed the front drivers side is towed in. How do I go about fixing this? Is it a pain? I am planning on driving down the road to have it aligned, do you all think it will ok to do so like this or do I have to mess with the tie rods?
That's normal when you install SN95 spindles on a Fox without adjusting the tie rods.. They all toe in and you'll need to unscrew the tie rod ends to straighten the wheels. Center the steering wheel, and then thread out the inner tie rods to push the wheels straight. Just eyeball it and then go get an alignment.
Very common and expected issue.
Very common and expected issue.
- Mar 3, 2010
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Got it and I can just bang the tie rods out from the spindle, rotate them out to get rid of the tow correct? I don’t have to go through a whole big process other wise right?
There is a sleeve that connects the inner tie rod to the outer tie rod, loosen up the two clamps and spin the connector to adjust your toe
- Mar 2, 2015
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The easiest way is to put the car on the floor with all 4 tires holding the cars weight. On my old GT I used 4x4s under the tires to get clearance to reach the tie rod ends.
You want to tie a string around the rear axle by the rear tires. Bring the string around the back tire in the center horizontally ...across the middle of the wheel face. Take the string all the way up to the front wheel on that side. You want the string to barely touch the front sidewall of the rear tire....it should barely touch the rear and front most sidewall of the front tire.
The idea is to use the string like a straight edge across the center of the front and rear tires. The rear is usually straight ( unless it was wrecked ). If the rear wheels stick out further than the front then you want to hold the string away from the front wheel face the same amount.
Once the string is ran from front to back you can see axactly how far the tie rod end has to be turned in or out.
The tie rod ends are adjusted by loosening the nut behind the outter tie rod end and using a wrench or pliers to turn the threaded inner tie rod end. The end attached to the rack will spin to allow this adjustment. Make sure the rubber boot at the rack doesn't twist with the inner tie rod.
Once the string is square, ( just touching the outter face of the rear wheel and the front wheel ), you are done.
When i do string alignments i adjust the front edge of both front wheels in just a hair. Usually equates to about 1/16th. It helps the car feel a little tighter.
If you have a level spot to park the car the caster camber can be set with a framers level on the face of the front wheels positioned vertically.
Ofcoarse, center the steering wheel first by turning all the way left ( counting revolutions ) and all the way to the right. Devide the number of turns in half ( 5 complete turns of the wheel, left to right, equals 2.5 ). Center the steering wheel and make adjustments. I run the seatbelt through the steering wheel and latch it so it wont move while adjusting.
You want to tie a string around the rear axle by the rear tires. Bring the string around the back tire in the center horizontally ...across the middle of the wheel face. Take the string all the way up to the front wheel on that side. You want the string to barely touch the front sidewall of the rear tire....it should barely touch the rear and front most sidewall of the front tire.
The idea is to use the string like a straight edge across the center of the front and rear tires. The rear is usually straight ( unless it was wrecked ). If the rear wheels stick out further than the front then you want to hold the string away from the front wheel face the same amount.
Once the string is ran from front to back you can see axactly how far the tie rod end has to be turned in or out.
The tie rod ends are adjusted by loosening the nut behind the outter tie rod end and using a wrench or pliers to turn the threaded inner tie rod end. The end attached to the rack will spin to allow this adjustment. Make sure the rubber boot at the rack doesn't twist with the inner tie rod.
Once the string is square, ( just touching the outter face of the rear wheel and the front wheel ), you are done.
When i do string alignments i adjust the front edge of both front wheels in just a hair. Usually equates to about 1/16th. It helps the car feel a little tighter.
If you have a level spot to park the car the caster camber can be set with a framers level on the face of the front wheels positioned vertically.
Ofcoarse, center the steering wheel first by turning all the way left ( counting revolutions ) and all the way to the right. Devide the number of turns in half ( 5 complete turns of the wheel, left to right, equals 2.5 ). Center the steering wheel and make adjustments. I run the seatbelt through the steering wheel and latch it so it wont move while adjusting.
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