Progress Thread Snow - 93 GT Vert. My first Ford, Mustang, convertible, ...
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Well that took forever
Spacer not saved, though those are easily replaceable.
Spacer not saved, though those are easily replaceable.
Exhaust manifold was a lot easier than I thought. Also, new Xmas present was spot on
Anything else I should tear down prior to taking off the heads?
What order should I take the remaining items off? Any pictures or positions I should mark or record prior to tear down?
What order should I take the remaining items off? Any pictures or positions I should mark or record prior to tear down?
Bring it up to TDC, mark the rotor position on the inside of the distributor and mark the distributor flange and the block, I use a chisel to score a mark.
Thank you for this. I will do all of it before next steps. That said, I know the distributor, what TDC means, but not how to do any of those. I will start reading now.
As for tear down, I will be following this video unless anyone has other recommendations:
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ssJ7-sCo_rg
What I do is pull the plugs, get a breaker bar on the crank bolt, turn the engine till the timing marks show on the balancer, I stick a small, long screw driver into the #1 spark plug hole and you'll feel the piston rise, when it stops the balancer should be at or near TDC, you can move the crank back and forth to determine the point when the piston stops, you can also tell how loose your timing chain is. Most even at 100k are still pretty tight, use the chisel to score a mark on the distributor flange and the pad on the block, I also score a mark after I set the timing, my car likes 13*.
I see your point, anything that can be used to 'feel' the piston move can be used, keep in mind the area between the piston and the head at TDC is small so the object has to be small, so as not to jamb between the piston and head.
Trying to rotate the engine to TDC, I am using a 24mm socket on the bolt in the pulley attached to the harmonic balancer and going clock-wise. When I get to the below position, I get some sort of spring-like winding. Meaning, it feels like I am needing to pull too hard and when I let go, it releases and moves back to the previous location. Do I need to pull harder? Am I doing something wrong?
Edit: Do I need to remove all spark plugs or just cylinder #1?
Pic 1 is original rotor location. Pic 2 is where rotor location seems to be "stuck" or "winding?" Pic 3 is spark plug #1
Edit: Do I need to remove all spark plugs or just cylinder #1?
Pic 1 is original rotor location. Pic 2 is where rotor location seems to be "stuck" or "winding?" Pic 3 is spark plug #1
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Pulled all the plugs. Looked good I think, with only #8, the last one at the bottom of the pic (driver side closest to drive #8?) looking white (pic at bottom)
Still hard. I mean, I can certainly sack-up here if whats happening is the spring is acting stronger than my barbie doll arms. I just worry about going all he-man on this and breaking something. Is there anything to be broken by turning clockwise? Im using one of these:
Tried to tell y'all I was a complete noob with this.
Took out of gear and turning easy.
Question: What would of happened if I would have gone all he-man on the crank with the vehicle in gear?
So, this feels like a silly question ...
My observation is that these spark plugs are a bit longer than standard. Meaning, my basic spark plug socket seemed to bottom out on these plugs. Is this just me? Ive been looking at tools like these, but wondering if Im missing something.
Amazon product ASIN B00AXTKZNUView: https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-22885-Magnetic-Socket-Extension/dp/B00AXTKZNU/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=2QWYB4YAQNHOW
My observation is that these spark plugs are a bit longer than standard. Meaning, my basic spark plug socket seemed to bottom out on these plugs. Is this just me? Ive been looking at tools like these, but wondering if Im missing something.
Amazon product ASIN B00AXTKZNUView: https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-22885-Magnetic-Socket-Extension/dp/B00AXTKZNU/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=2QWYB4YAQNHOW
So, looking at the HB 0/TDC here are my 2 locations. Im speculating that TDC will be that first picture with the rotor at ~11 o'clock. I have one of these tools coming, which I will double check then. Ill also check when the valve cover is off. FWIW I dont remember aligning the HB when I installed it, ill check back in this thread. Amazon product ASIN B002XMOMA2View: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002XMOMA2?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Ive got a good memory! The HB is keyed so the new one went on the way the old one did. Im speculating that 11 o'clock is still money on TDC.
Other thoughts?
Other thoughts?
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