Progress Thread Snow - 93 GT Vert. My first Ford, Mustang, convertible, ...

  • Sponsors (?)


How many of us are at a soccer tournament all day today and not working on their toilet (mechanic at my first job called all cars toilets)?

My 17yo just (kids these days) got his license and my wife won’t let him drive himself like 45 min away. Reason being she doesn’t think he can look at his phone for directions while driving. I’m not sure she is wrong, but none the less out the door this morning like 745am and won’t be home till like 6Pm. Not to mention it’s red RTV temps out here today.

So yea - thanks for listening to me complain. That’s the update!
Need to put the teenager to work... All this stuff was a lot easier as a teen then trying to do it these days. I sure don't bend and flex like I used to lol, my shoulders still popping and creaking from dropping the fuel tank in the driveway 2 weeks ago.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users
Need to put the teenager to work... All this stuff was a lot easier as a teen then trying to do it these days. I sure don't bend and flex like I used to lol, my shoulders still popping and creaking from dropping the fuel tank in the driveway 2 weeks ago.
Agree

The oldest needs both lower ball joints replaced on his 2005 Dodge Magnum. We have only had the car like 6 months and havnt had the front end apart. Being in a salt state Im assuming its going to be a good bit of work.
 
If factory style I believe all of your exhaust should be fire cone joints and look like this

1685492054270.jpeg


I use these exhaust manifold gaskets and have zero complaints. You need to retorque after a couple heat cycles but I would do that with any one you buy.


The outer tabs allow you to start the two outside bolts and then drop the gasket in.
 
So with these arp studs on the lower intake, what do I do about the heater tube?

Stock is a stud and nut torqued down. Then heater tube bracket and another stud.

The arp studs didn’t come with another nut, the stock ones don’t fit. In addition, the arp nuts are a bit beveled?

Thoughts? Obviously I could just put under arp nut, but I’d have to remove the nut and retorque. The beveling of the arp nuts leads me to believe nothing should go on top.

IMG_2760.jpeg
IMG_2761.jpeg
IMG_2762.jpeg
 
I just put a flat washer on top of the hex but then put tab of the heater core tube on top of that and used another nut to torque it down.

If you do not know what the thread size is on the stud just remove the nut and take that with you to a hardware store and you should be able to match it up. Reinstall the nut and torque.

Are you talking about the clips that hold the fuel line to the fuel rails? Like this:

1685668151481.jpeg
 
I just put a flat washer on top of the hex but then put tab of the heater core tube on top of that and used another nut to torque it down.

If you do not know what the thread size is on the stud just remove the nut and take that with you to a hardware store and you should be able to match it up. Reinstall the nut and torque.

Are you talking about the clips that hold the fuel line to the fuel rails? Like this:

1685668151481.jpeg
yea - those fuel caps. One of my tethers snapped cause they are cheap plastic. The sell for like $15 and $25 respectfully. Are there any DIY work arounds?
 
I have not run a tether since I swapped the car to a V8 back in 2002 so I am of no help. When I need to I pop the clips off and put them on top of the radiator otherwise known as the small parts holder.
 
Not sure if they were meant as a safety feature but more of a "pop the clip off and not loose it" feature.

I do not have a set but I would not throw them away if I had them either.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user