Progress Thread Snow - 93 GT Vert. My first Ford, Mustang, convertible, ...
- Thread starter JAA
- Start date
-
Sponsors (?)
I’m doing reading now, but is the right way to do the heater core bypass to connect the 2 heater pipe hoses? I believe I did the backyard way with the below U hose. Anyway, gonna read some more.
Valve cover all tightened down to 168” lbs.
Exhaust manifolds waiting on gaskets.
Heater pipe next. Also need to find a nut for the arp stud situation. I believe the torque for that is like 100” lbs, so I’m not too worried.
Also - I think the rest of the spark wire clips are still on the spark plug wires, lol.
Valve cover all tightened down to 168” lbs.
Exhaust manifolds waiting on gaskets.
Heater pipe next. Also need to find a nut for the arp stud situation. I believe the torque for that is like 100” lbs, so I’m not too worried.
Also - I think the rest of the spark wire clips are still on the spark plug wires, lol.
Big thing is making sue the ECT is in the flow of the coolant as that is the most accurate reading. I know several have it set up like above but I do not know if it is 100% right tuning wise. Someone else will have to chime in on that.
I decided to keep the pipe, maybe something I can try another time. Is a pretty simple change.
That said, I’m unsatisfied with how the heat pipe is seating lower intake port. I got like 4ish threads before it was taking too much leverage to move it. I tried to cleanup the threads best I could but I don’t have a chaser or a tap of that size.
rednotch
Founding Member
Grab an explorer gt40 heater tube and cut it down if you want to loop it like that., it mounts the sensor at the fitting, the heater tubes are rebuildable with a common O-Ring, pretty sure there's a thread or two on them here.. I need to figure one out for use on a Hiram but that's probably what I'll end up doing.
rednotch
Founding Member
How does this look?
XtremeAmazing Set of 5 HSS NPT Pipe Tap Set 1/8, 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 and 3/4 Inch https://a.co/d/3gIuvT2
So I believe the stock heads had a stud front passenger which allowed the attachment of the fuel lines clip/bracket. What do people do with this when using arp bolts?
Its the (rusted) metal bracket thing which holds the fuel delivery and return lines.
Its the (rusted) metal bracket thing which holds the fuel delivery and return lines.
I finished 2nd in my age group in the local sprint triathlon today. Nothing better than finishing first loser. Slow start to the work.
I am test fitting the intake on, bolts are in but just ended for the test fit.
The new silicone tube I added looks like it could be a bit more snug. It’s currently resting on the valve covers. Do I need to get that a perfect fit so it doesn’t rub at all?
I am test fitting the intake on, bolts are in but just ended for the test fit.
The new silicone tube I added looks like it could be a bit more snug. It’s currently resting on the valve covers. Do I need to get that a perfect fit so it doesn’t rub at all?
Man, if you would have never posted the pic of the bracket for the metal fuel lines I would have never known it existed. Might be why plastic lines between the metal fuel lines and those lines the bracket holds were slightly linked on my car. These are the ones I’m talking about:
On the car they were slightly linked which couldn’t have been good for fuel delivery especially with the 331. It did not bother me with the 306’s but when the tuner let me know I was running out of fuel in the 5,000+ rpm range it started to bother me.
With that being said couple of threads on this very subject. These guys say F it and don’t worry about it:
stangnet.com
This thread suggests just popping the original bolt back in and torque it up.
stangnet.com
You could message the General and see what he ended up doing.
Again, I feel that mine not having it probably contributed to the plastic section of the fuel lines having a mild kink.
On the car they were slightly linked which couldn’t have been good for fuel delivery especially with the 331. It did not bother me with the 306’s but when the tuner let me know I was running out of fuel in the 5,000+ rpm range it started to bother me.
With that being said couple of threads on this very subject. These guys say F it and don’t worry about it:
ARP Head Bolts & Fuel Line Bracket?
I purchased ARP head bolts to use when I install the heads on my '87 5.0. The passenger side, front, bottom stock head bolt (behind the alternator) is actually a stud bolt. After this stud bolt is installed, a bracket which holds the two fuel lines is held on the stud part of the bolt by a...
stangnet.com
This thread suggests just popping the original bolt back in and torque it up.
Replacing Head Bolts
Interesting situation, can you remove one head bolt to replace it with a studded head bolt? It is the lower front head bolt on an engine that will be running around 10psi (or less) with a blower. The studded bolt, new tty ford part, is needed for a bracket, there is a second choice for attaching...
stangnet.com
You could message the General and see what he ended up doing.
Again, I feel that mine not having it probably contributed to the plastic section of the fuel lines having a mild kink.
Last edited:
If you can shorten the vacuum line up and it will not rest on the valve cover do it but otherwise I don’t see it as a big deal.
Crazy - I did a bunch of searching for those types of threads and you found them instantly. Thank you.Man, if you would have never posted the pic of the bracket for the metal fuel lines I would have never known it existed. Might be why plastic lines between the metal fuel lines and those lines the bracket holds were slightly linked on my car. These are the ones I’m talking about:
On the car they were slightly linked which couldn’t have been good for fuel delivery especially with the 331. It did not bother me with the 306’s but when the tuner let me know I was running out of fuel in the 5,000+ rpm range it started to bother me.
With that being said couple of threads on this very subject. These guys say F it and don’t worry about it:
ARP Head Bolts & Fuel Line Bracket?
I purchased ARP head bolts to use when I install the heads on my '87 5.0. The passenger side, front, bottom stock head bolt (behind the alternator) is actually a stud bolt. After this stud bolt is installed, a bracket which holds the two fuel lines is held on the stud part of the bolt by a...
This thread suggests just popping the original bolt back in and torque it up.
Replacing Head Bolts
Interesting situation, can you remove one head bolt to replace it with a studded head bolt? It is the lower front head bolt on an engine that will be running around 10psi (or less) with a blower. The studded bolt, new tty ford part, is needed for a bracket, there is a second choice for attaching...
You could message the General and see what he ended up doing.
Again, I feel that mine not having it probably contributed to the plastic section of the fuel lines having a mild kink.
Based on the feedbacks, ill prolly just leave it eliminated.
I did see lots of threads on upgraded fuel lines. They looked yummy.
I forgot to order the EGR spacer / upper intake studs as 2 of mine broke. Got them and a EGR to TB gasket as the BBK only included the intake to spacer.
Its getting closer. Slowly, but closer.
And Im drunk, yay me.
Remember that time you were mounting your AC delete bracket and you got antiseize on your wine glass? Yea, me neither.
Look - I love LMR more than most here, however ...
Landon at LMR (via the YT videos) is the cleanest and most put together wrench spinner I have ever seen. NTTIAWWT, but does he have a stunt double who does the actual work? I mean, I don't see a spec of grease and/or rust debris on his baby soft skin. I will definitely not let my wife watch any of his work so as to ensure she knows whose impact wrench has the most torque. Just sayin
Landon at LMR (via the YT videos) is the cleanest and most put together wrench spinner I have ever seen. NTTIAWWT, but does he have a stunt double who does the actual work? I mean, I don't see a spec of grease and/or rust debris on his baby soft skin. I will definitely not let my wife watch any of his work so as to ensure she knows whose impact wrench has the most torque. Just sayin
I got stock replacement head bolts, the stud is included.
You may be able to get just that particular studded bolt, I may even have a spare,
Similar threads
