Progress Thread Snow - 93 GT Vert. My first Ford, Mustang, convertible, ...
- Thread starter JAA
- Start date
-
Sponsors (?)
They're a larger tube than most of the others. Plus a few inches longer giving you more to weld to the front and rear subframes.
Also the gusseting on their tubes is more extensive.
They also have flat plates that are welded to the bends in the tubes to strengthen the bend areas. Other manufacturers don't have that. Though, admittedly, you get just get some extra metal and weld to the other manufacturer's tubes.
Just seem better thought out and constructed. I had UPR sfc's on another fox I worked on and the MM's are far stouter.
Just got around to calling the local junkyard. None of these for me to snatch an alternator:
- Mustang 3.8L (94, 95, 96, 97, 98, 99, 00)
- Mustang 5.0L (94, 95)
- Taurus/Sable 3.0L (93, 94, 95, 96, 97, 98, 99) except sho
- Thunderbird/Cougar 3.8L (94, 95, 96, 97) non sc
I got lazy and ordered the LMR 130 upgrade kit. I know lots of folks don’t like the quality of their parts, but for me I like their kits and videos. It just makes it easier for me to be lazy.
Some before and after:
Some before and after:
Now onto my question
I over torqued my starter solenoid
All the replacements I found at parts stores the posts were much shorter. I can barely get on the retaining nut.
Is there a preferred solenoid which has long posts?
I over torqued my starter solenoid
All the replacements I found at parts stores the posts were much shorter. I can barely get on the retaining nut.
Is there a preferred solenoid which has long posts?
Order a Motorcraft replacement from Rock Auto if you have the time to wait for it. Otherwise I would have the local parts store order one for you.Now onto my question
I over torqued my starter solenoid
All the replacements I found at parts stores the posts were much shorter. I can barely get on the retaining nut.
Is there a preferred solenoid which has long posts?
2 coolant leaks. One looks easy, the other doesn’t
Tighten a hose should be simple enough
And, this looks like a gasket:
Tighten a hose should be simple enough
And, this looks like a gasket:
Also, what does one do with the under carriage guard? Do these get kept on or replaced? Upgraded?
- Jul 12, 2017
- 2,408
- 1,381
- 173
Looks like a timing cover /water pump leak, be careful removing the bolts that secure them to the block, electrolysis tends to seize them up in the block.
Thanks. I’m thinking it’s the water pump area. I’m looking for better pictures of the system.
If it is the water pump, do I just replace the gasket/seal or do I replace all the hardware while in there?
- Jul 12, 2017
- 2,408
- 1,381
- 173
You likely will have to replace the bolts, slather them up with anti seize, makes things easier when it has to be worked on again.
Good question. I want to say the radiator is stock. Should I just replace that also?
If so, which one do folks recommend?
In the process of replacing radiator, water pump and thermostat.
This vehicle was an auto convert to 5-spd.
It seems I have 2 radiators. However, after taking out the standard one, the remaining one doesn’t seem to be connected to anything we can see.
Is this the auto trans radiator? If so is it in use? Should I leave it alone or remove it?
Pics
This vehicle was an auto convert to 5-spd.
It seems I have 2 radiators. However, after taking out the standard one, the remaining one doesn’t seem to be connected to anything we can see.
Is this the auto trans radiator? If so is it in use? Should I leave it alone or remove it?
Pics
Thanks all. Yea, we did some additional reading. We were a little caught off guard, should have read a bit more before commenting. Thanks again.
Fml - one broken bolt on the water pump. Snapped off at the thread start. Time to start reading how to tackle
PS - I did but all new bolts for it.
Pic
PS - I did but all new bolts for it.
Pic
So it appears this prticular bolt thread broke off about 3/4 in timing cover and 1/4 in block. Can I even take the timing cover off now?
Similar threads
