Spark Plugs/Wires

[caesar229]

I'm looking to get some new spark plugs and wires. I've searched around the forum and learned a lot but I still have a few questions...

I drive an 02 GT thats basically stock (K&N intake and magnapack catback). I think I'm going to go with the NGK plugs. Should I get the TR-55 or the TR-6?

As far as wires, what size should I get? 8mm or 9mm? I'm thinking either taylor, moroso, or msd. What do you guys recommend? Thanks.

 

[CobraRed_96_GT]

do 02's even have spark plug wires since they have COP's?

 

[SVT32VDOHC]

No. 99-current Mustangs do not have spark plug wires.

You just need to buy plugs. Do a search on the horror stories on spark plugs blowing out. I left mine alone. I didn't want this to happen to me. If it runs fine, I go by this saying:

If it ain't broke, don't fix it!!

 

[twogts4us]

No. 99-current Mustangs do not have spark plug wires.

You just need to buy plugs. Do a search on the horror stories on spark plugs blowing out. I left mine alone. I didn't want this to happen to me. If it runs fine, I go by this saying:

If it ain't broke, don't fix it!!

Are you running the stock plugs and stock gap on your blown 96 Cobra?

The platnium plugs are good for 50K miles. So, at least at some point, why wouldn't you want to chg them? Although there are some have had issues with spark plug blow-out, weren't the threads lengthened by 2002? Nonetheless, if you are careful and keep in mind that these are aluminum heads, you'll have no issue. Clean as you go, use anti-seize.
I'll tell you what I did on my first plug chg - I don't do this anymore, but I think it helped initially. I run copper plugs (shorter life, cheap, better spark conductor, plus it gives me the chance to inspect what's going on in the combustion chambers every 6 months or so), and chg them every 6K miles. (On the 4V, it's REALLY easy to do, but the 2V isn't too hard either)
OK, what I did was this: lube up the threads (anti-seize) on a new plug pretty well, not excessive though...you don't want a bunch of that stuff dropping down into the cylinder. Thread the new plug down into the head using approx 18" length of fuel line (push the terminal of the plug into an open end of the fuel line, then guide it and turn it with the other end of the line). When the plug terminal begins to slip in the fuel line (caused by meeting resistance in the threads), back it out. Clean the threads thoroughly. REPEAT. REPEAT until you can thread with the fuel line to a comfortable depth, then cinch it down with a torque wrench (or a regular socket will do, but BE CAREFUL not to overtighten - you just want them snug) I use a 1/4" socket wrench (rather than the larger 3/8" or 1/2") to help prevent overtightening.nother tip - I use 3 finger tips and a thumb to tighten. Regardless of the wrench size you end up using, don't grab the wrench like you're taking apart suspension pieces - with a full palm / fist style grip. Gently hold and operate the wrench - that'll help.

 

[Mustang5L5]

No plug wires on these cars.


With minimal mods, i'd stick with Stock OEM plugs (motorcraft SP-493's) gapped at 0.054"

 

[SVT32VDOHC]

I had the plugs changed by Alternative Auto when they installed, and dyno tuned the Vortec. I just let them have at everything. Not sure on the brand of plugs, but they are two steps colder and gapped much smaller than stock...somewhere in the .030ish range.

Good tip on the 2V plug change. My 81 runs fine with the 4.6L motor, so I'm not touching it. It has 78K miles, so I was gonna change them, but who knows, they could have been done before, I just don't want to risk a blowout when the Woodward Dream Cruise is under 30 days away.

 

[Mustang5L5]

I have 63K miles on my original plugs. It still runs good, so i'm hesitant to change them with the whole plug blowout issue possible.

It's gotta be done though. They are past due

 

[RedDaemon]

I have 63K miles on my original plugs. It still runs good, so i'm hesitant to change them with the whole plug blowout issue possible.

It's gotta be done though. They are past due

I changed mine with Ford's longer threaded platnium plugs and installed new COPS. i havent had one issue with them. and this is with anti-seize on the threads.

After I installed the plugs, i checked them after 100miles. maybe one or two times after that (100mi interval) and did a last check at the next oil change.

i personally wouldnt be concerned about it if i were you. get ford OEM and go w/ the longer threads

 

[SVT32VDOHC]

Yeah, I'm sure we will be fine. We have worked on cars before, and changed 100's of plugs. Maybe the people it happened to aren't familiar with changine plugs at all. I might wait til after the Dream Cruise though....juuuust to be safe!

 

[RedDaemon]

Maybe the people it happened to aren't familiar with changine plugs at all.

this is what i believe makes up 90% of blow out issues.

i would wait after the cruise as well. hopefully youre not in that 10%

 

[SVT32VDOHC]

I hope not. I still might not even do it. As little as I drive the car, I won't get to 80K until late 2009, or 2010.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Well i will wait until after my 400-mine round trip vacation in 2 weeks.

If something does pop out, i'd rather be close to home and not up in the boonies of Maine.

 

[twogts4us]

Yeah, I'm sure we will be fine. We have worked on cars before, and changed 100's of plugs. Maybe the people it happened to aren't familiar with changine plugs at all. I might wait til after the Dream Cruise though....juuuust to be safe!

Agreed, if you have a big event coming up, now would not be the time to start wrenching it unless it's absolutely necessary.
And I agree, I'd think most folks who have an issue with plug changes on the mod motor probably have little automotive experience. You just have to be a lil more careful with these alum heads, that's all. My method, essentially cleaning out the threads with repeated install/removal processes (with anti-seize) I believe helped me from the start. Whenever you get junk in the threads, it'll cause problems. And those folks with over-zealous wrench cranking ideas often do their own damage.
In addition, with the configuration of the mod motor's spark plug location (down in bores inside the heads), people need to be extra careful of junk getting down into these bores. This was never an issue on the typical pushrod motors, but it really really really calls for you to use compressed air after you remove the COP and before you remove the plug. Otherwise, all the sand, grit and general crap will either end up in the combustion chamber or in the threads (neither of which is good).

 

[SVT32VDOHC]

My tuner shop said that they even blow compressed air down there after the plugs is removed, to get all the crap out of the threads. They said that they have not had one blow out on a 2V engine. He just holds it in there a few seconds to make sure it all comes out.

 

[RedDaemon]

My tuner shop said that they even blow compressed air down there after the plugs is removed, to get all the crap out of the threads. They said that they have not had one blow out on a 2V engine. He just holds it in there a few seconds to make sure it all comes out.

they blow air into the combustion chamber?

blowing compressed air after removing the cop before taking the plug out should be the only time to do it..otherwise you might blow crap into your engine. they may do it and it may work, but that is where i draw the line. to me that just sounds counterproductive

air compressor is essential with this task. when i did my plugs a bunch of crap cam out of those bores..mostly sand. its quite surprising how much stuff can get down in there..

 

[Mustang5L5]

So what's the final word on plug changes?

Blow the hell out of the hole with compressed air first, take out old spark plug, then use anti-seize or no? Or just a tiny bit? What's the torque spec?

I'm using OEM plugs with the longer threads, which i beleive are SP-493's. Yeah i know copper plugs are better than platnium but my car is a DD so i don't care.

Got em ready to go, just gotta wait til i get back from my roadtrip

 

[RedDaemon]

So what's the final word on plug changes?

Blow the hell out of the hole with compressed air first, take out old spark plug, then use anti-seize or no? Or just a tiny bit? What's the torque spec?

I'm using OEM plugs with the longer threads, which i beleive are SP-493's. Yeah i know copper plugs are better than platnium but my car is a DD so i don't care.

Got em ready to go, just gotta wait til i get back from my roadtrip

a tiny bit of anti sieze. dont gob it on. blow the F out of the plug hole (with plug still in) make sure hole is nice and dry too. i didnt use a torque wrench. i used a rubber tube to get it seated right and snug then i took a socket wrench and gave it a good 1/4 turn. after youre satifsfied with the plug install, apply dielectric grease to the boot of the COP and install. in addition to dielectric grease, i used a scilicone spray.

just check the plugs every so often right after you do it. chances are if you make it past the first oil change i would think if a plug blew out it wouldnt be because of anything you did.

 

[SVT32VDOHC]

I would put the aniti sieze on an old tooth brush. Use a little bit. Don't use the brush that comes outta the can of antisieze. That brush always gobs it on in clumps...Just coat the threads carefully and wipe off the access.

Also...do you guys remove the fuel rail? Some of the COP/plugs look like a PITA to get out with the fuel rail in the way!!!

 

[RedDaemon]

nope i kept mine in place. if you have fat/thick hands you might have difficulty grabbing the COP itself. however once you unseat the COP you can bend it as the boot is rubber and inside is just a spring.