Spec Stage 2+ Clutch, good or bad?

I go with anything other than Spec - their quality is hit or miss, and, of course, I was on the receiving end of a miss. There are many other quality setups to choose from - Centerforce, McLeod, Ram...
And I'd stick with an OEM cable. I had an expensive Steeda adjustable cable that rusted from the inside out within 1 year. I'm running with the stock OEM cable (6 years later) with a Steeda firewall adjuster and Steeda quadrant. (There are other companies that make good quads and firewall adjusters...you don't have to spend $teeda money to get these parts with quality workmanship - several other companies sell em)

twogts4us said:

I go with anything other than Spec - their quality is hit or miss, and, of course, I was on the receiving end of a miss. There are many other quality setups to choose from - Centerforce, McLeod, Ram...
And I'd stick with an OEM cable. I had an expensive Steeda adjustable cable that rusted from the inside out within 1 year. I'm running with the stock OEM cable (6 years later) with a Steeda firewall adjuster and Steeda quadrant. (There are other companies that make good quads and firewall adjusters...you don't have to spend $teeda money to get these parts with quality workmanship - several other companies sell em)

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This man speaks the truth.

twogts4us said:

I go with anything other than Spec - their quality is hit or miss, and, of course, I was on the receiving end of a miss. There are many other quality setups to choose from - Centerforce, McLeod, Ram...
And I'd stick with an OEM cable. I had an expensive Steeda adjustable cable that rusted from the inside out within 1 year. I'm running with the stock OEM cable (6 years later) with a Steeda firewall adjuster and Steeda quadrant. (There are other companies that make good quads and firewall adjusters...you don't have to spend $teeda money to get these parts with quality workmanship - several other companies sell em)

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+2. I used the quadrant and firewall adjuster from the american muscle kit and they worked out great. As said in the quote- the OEM cable does not need to be replaced unless it is visibly worn out (not likely).

I too was tempted to buy a spec but decided against it when I saw the mixed reviews.

Hey my mustang is doing the same squealing as yours? It just started recently. How long can I drive it around like this until my tax money comes to change the clutch? Also I would like suggestions on the clutch to buy. This is just my daily driver that I drive to school and stuff so I don't race it.

darkhorse96 said:

Hey my mustang is doing the same squealing as yours? It just started recently. How long can I drive it around like this until my tax money comes to change the clutch? Also I would like suggestions on the clutch to buy. This is just my daily driver that I drive to school and stuff so I don't race it.

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If you don't have a ton of mods (Supercharger, Turbo, or serious NA power) the stock clutch is just fine. You could step up one notch and spend just a little more and go with the Ford Racing King Cobra. (This is assuming you have a 96 Mustang, which has the 10.5" clutch. The original thread starter has an 04, which comes with an 11" clutch, and he has a blower, so he needs the extra gripping power of an aftermarket performance clutch.)
I just replaced my clutch a couple months ago and went with the OEM clutch. The feel is, well, like stock, and the performance I expect is there - my tires spin in second gear, but my clutch is rock solid.
Don't make the mistake of spending too much for too much clutch. The performance, the feel, both will likely frustrate you and it won't make you any faster.
In addition, I'd buy your own clutch and have a shop install it for you. If THEY buy it, they'll likely mark it up, sometimes WAY up. You can find the King Cobra clutch kit pretty cheap for several sources. Apparently it is no longer available directly from Ford, but, if it helps, the part # for the King Cobra clutch kit is M-7560-C302N.

Your squeaky TOB may last 6 months or it may seize in 6 days. Get it done ASAP. You can lube the TOB by removing the clutch cable cover on the driver's side of the transmission and, after assembling a couple of those tiny plastic tubes you get from spray lubes or cleaners - tape 'em together to make 1 long tube - use a flashlight to see what you are doing and send some spray of lithium grease up onto the TOB. Be sure to stay clear of the clutch itself - grease and clutches do not mix well!

BEST OF LUCK!
Chris

Dynamic Racing Products has the King Cobra Clutch Kit for $159.

Dynamic Racing Products Online Auto Parts Store - 83-01 KING COBRA CLUTCH KIT

That Mcleod RST looks like a very cool piece of hardware. For USAF Branham - I'm sure you already know that you certainly DON'T want to skimp on your clutch purchase (unless you enjoy clutch changes..!).

And yes, you can use the AM kit with the stock clutch cable (regardless of what they may tell you, you DON'T need an adjustable cable in order to use a firewall adjuster or non-OEM quadrant).

As far as RAM is concerned, the RAM HDX would probably work well for you, as it reportedly offers "30-60 percent more clamping pressure over stock". The Powergrip or Powergrip HD are also options for you, but stepping up to the Powergrip HD will, admittedly by RAM, produce some clutch chatter when taking off. The HDX is $315.95, the Powergrip is $401.95 and the Powergrip HD is $429.95 - (all prices are quoted from Summit Racing).

twogts4us said:

If you don't have a ton of mods (Supercharger, Turbo, or serious NA power) the stock clutch is just fine. You could step up one notch and spend just a little more and go with the Ford Racing King Cobra. (This is assuming you have a 96 Mustang, which has the 10.5" clutch. The original thread starter has an 04, which comes with an 11" clutch, and he has a blower, so he needs the extra gripping power of an aftermarket performance clutch.)

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I've got a stock-replacement Luk (replaced when a OE TB failed years ago) in my blown GT making similar power and it's fine. I don't drag race the car and it rides on stock sized, DOT (Nitto NT555) rubber. While traction is sometimes a challenge, the clutch has been fine.

If I had much more aggressive rubber, beat on it harder or took it to a track with a prepped surface and side-stepped the clutch at 4000RPM to launch I'd be singing a different tune. But for the vast majority of daily driven cars a stock-replacement or "stock+1" is more than enough...

I just replaced my clutch a couple months ago and went with the OEM clutch. The feel is, well, like stock, and the performance I expect is there - my tires spin in second gear, but my clutch is rock solid.
Don't make the mistake of spending too much for too much clutch. The performance, the feel, both will likely frustrate you and it won't make you any faster.

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I agree. Seriously, unless the car is raced on prepped surfaces with slicks or DRs, I'd stay as stock as possible. The Terminator Cobra (03-04) didn't use anything particularly fancy in terms of the clutch so why should a blown 2V making similar power?

I am getting a RAM hdx clutch installed in my mustang. How many miles is the break in period for this clutch and how should i drive during this period?

I bought a stage 2 and installed it in my 473 rwhp 99 gt. so slip, holds great, and is actually very streetable. Not bad for in city driving at all!