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Squeeking commin from the front end?!

  • Thread starter Thread starter 91LX_5L
  • Start date Start date May 30, 2006

91LX_5L

Founding Member
May 13, 2002
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36
British Columbia
May 30, 2006
#1
  • May 30, 2006
  • #1
Havent looked into it at all but as I was pulling into my garage I noticed a squeaking comming from my front left side. It squeaks when I turn the steering wheel but only when I turn it to the left.

Any ideas? It did do this once before but went away.
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
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129
May 31, 2006
#2
  • May 31, 2006
  • #2
Matt, based on the info given, the P.S. is bogging down at idle/very low RPM while the wheel is being turned. And then it whines.

Gee, I enjoy stating the obvious and what you already knew.
 

91LX_5L

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#3
  • May 31, 2006
  • #3
no its a squeaking noise, not the PS and its only when I turn to the LEFT.
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
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May 31, 2006
#4
  • May 31, 2006
  • #4
Squeaky like the tire turning on polished cement? Probably not (I get that, which is why I asked).

Could it be belt squeak? Otherwise, I would inspect that side of the suspension - tie rods, ball joint, etc. It's gonna be hard to mimic those conditions though.

I'm braindead. Bump.
 

91LX_5L

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#5
  • May 31, 2006
  • #5
heh nope not the tires/pavment and its not a belt. thanks tho man could be the balljoints or tierods, can i grease em?
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
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129
May 31, 2006
#6
  • May 31, 2006
  • #6
I dont think the factory stuff is greasable. The ball joints have the wear indicators in them IIRC (which means no greasing). I just cant recall about the stock tie rods.

I gotta say......... your car is sick - I'm surprised that you have the stock stuff still in there.

Good luck and bump.
 

91LX_5L

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May 13, 2002
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#7
  • May 31, 2006
  • #7
i didnt wanna do the x2 ball joints sounds like a pain
 

1TallMF

New Member
Apr 17, 2006
955
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Montreal
May 31, 2006
#8
  • May 31, 2006
  • #8
Sounds like a ball joint just starting to get worn. Mine's been like that for a few weeks now, and it also doesn't squeek all the time, but only when it wants to, which is usually as I pull up next to a car full of hot girls If its like mine, you won't be able to see looseness in the ball joint, but apparently these things squeek before they take a dump.

Get the Cobra A-arms and be done with it
 

91LX_5L

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May 31, 2006
#9
  • May 31, 2006
  • #9
So if I were to get the Cobra A-arms would I also need balljoints & tie-rod ends as well? Should I get aftermarket ones of these? Which are best? I remember reading it was suggested for me since my car is lowered like 2" in the front.

Thanks also where is the best/cheapest place for the Cobra A-arms...

OH YEAH!!! Keep in mind I run a MM Coil-Over setup! Are the cobra a-arms still benificial?

edit: What about the MM ones? Seems as they are designed for the Coil-Overs?
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/i...tore/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=2_79_216
not sure which ones Id get...would I need new balljoints and tie-rod ends as well?
 

1TallMF

New Member
Apr 17, 2006
955
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Montreal
May 31, 2006
#10
  • May 31, 2006
  • #10
Those MM A-arms are sweet and probably alot lighter than the stamped Ford pieces. However, they're more than double the price of the Cobra arms. These can be had for $137.50 at http://www.johnbleakleyford.com/parts.asp or for $150 - $160 at Jegs or Summit or anywhere else that carries FMS parts. The part # is M3075D (or FMS-M-3075-D in full) and they include new low-friction ball joints, 50% stiffer bushings and a revised stamping.

As for tie rod ends, I'd check to see if yours are worn first, but if needed I'd go with a Steeda bump steer kit, otherwise I'd leave them alone.
 

stprorolla49

Active Member
Oct 9, 2004
1,455
15
39
Fairfield, CT/North Jersey
May 31, 2006
#11
  • May 31, 2006
  • #11
it sounds like the ball joints...i watited too long, and mine broke, and the whole car fell to the ground....thank god i wasnt driving more than 3mph into my driveway....fix it now, or you could be in trouble later...
 

91LX_5L

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May 13, 2002
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May 31, 2006
#12
  • May 31, 2006
  • #12
well IMO if I got a new A-Arm I should get X2 ball joints and aftermarket tie-rod ends all at the same time...dont you agree?

Im thinking about the MM ones because they are designed for the coil-overs...correct? I dont care that they are lighter since my car is a street ride and I dont drag.
 

1TallMF

New Member
Apr 17, 2006
955
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0
Montreal
May 31, 2006
#13
  • May 31, 2006
  • #13
If you go with an A-arm, they already come with balljoints, so swaping them to X2 balljoints seems like a waste to me. If you really want the taller balljoints, then I would just buy the X2's and put them in the stock A-arms. All depends how much you want to spend. And yes, the MM ones are made specially for coilovers, since they don't have the spring bucket. the stock arms will work either way.
 

BlueOvalStangGT

Active Member
Oct 27, 2003
2,849
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46
Tampa Florida....USF!!!
May 31, 2006
#14
  • May 31, 2006
  • #14
I have this prob too, let me know how this goes. Anyone wanna post pics of the parts in question.
 

91LX_5L

Founding Member
May 13, 2002
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Jun 1, 2006
#15
  • Jun 1, 2006
  • #15
Well whats an advatange to the MM K-member or the Cobra K-Members vs my stock?
 

Methodical

15 Year Member
Dec 1, 2003
1,192
11
59
Clinton, MD
Jun 1, 2006
#16
  • Jun 1, 2006
  • #16
With the MM A arms, you will have to do some "minor" alterations rolleyes: ) to the stock K member. I think you have to grind part of it. Check out MMs website and call them.
 
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