Stang leaves me confused.

To me this sounds like a loose connection or corrosion. Perhaps a corroded cable somewhere. I think this will only get worse until you discover the intermittent connection problem whether it be caused by a loose connection or corrosion.

My Cobra would randomly not start and have no electricity to anything. I would slam the driver's door and all was fine... Turned out the negative battery terminal was super loose due to the stealership techs not reconnecting it properly after servicing.

rock4451 said:

MSD...should be used as a paperweight only.

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Useless post like this need deleted.



Anyway, to the op. Check for something that you unplugged that could be grounding out. I guess first of all, reconnect your factory cluster and make sure you didn't pull a wire out of a clip when you pulled them off the cluster. I'd start there and suspect that is your culprit as this started after you pulled it apart.

Hmm, sounds like a short somewhere. Check your grounds as well. Also check your alternator and the voltage regulator, where ever it may be. The bucking sounds like some missfires like when your sparkplugs go bad. It was ok when you were idleling but when your car needed more electricity for the plugs your battery couldn't support the extra need for it. Don't think your battery is the problem! Did the lights on the radio dim and brighten? But I think your battery is not being maintained properly by your alternator.

when i first got my car i pulled the battery out over night and when i put it back in with all the terminals tight and everything it would randomly start bucking and the guages going crazy. one day it stopped. another time it was sputtering thought something bad was wrong let it sit for a week than it went away and ran fine.

Yep msd is useles unless your pushin like a lot of HP
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fast97gt said:

Yep msd is useles unless your pushin like a lot of HP
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Like a whole lotta HP.

Ryan441 said:

when i first got my car i pulled the battery out over night and when i put it back in with all the terminals tight and everything it would randomly start bucking and the guages going crazy. one day it stopped. another time it was sputtering thought something bad was wrong let it sit for a week than it went away and ran fine.

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diagnosis: it is a ford, which is good and bad depending on when you ask and how many miles you have on the car - just had to get my pinion seal fixed under warranty w/less than 30k miles - I have a lexus bought new that has 115k miles and no warranty claims...and then today my back quarter panel window on one side stopped working on the stang...2 weeks before the warranty is set to expire...at least it is good looking...thank you detroit

You know, someone else had a problem with a short to voltage problem with there anti-theft. The anti-theft right beside your battery, white and then pink I think, I get my wiring diagram to confirm, but it kind of sounds like it might be grounding out, I accidently to pulled apart the wire it was connected to;quickly found out the car wouldn't run w/o those connections, a brown and some other color wire. Try the wiggle test with it to start when the car is running. Oh yea put your cluster back in to see if that the light is flashing with the anti-theft when the car is off. If I was a bettin' man I would think that wire was grounding out some how after the re-charging/maintaining system was considered operable! Would you like the wiring diagram?

O.k., I am going to figure exactly how my scanner works, but in the mean time, I am looking at the wiring diagram. From the INSTRUMENT CLUSTER-Light Green/ Red= Generator/Voltage Regulator, Black/yellow=Airbag Diagnostic Monitor, Dark Green= splices Anti-lock Brake control module and ABS Diagnostic connector, Pink/ Light Green=goes from MIL to PCM, White/ Light Green= Trans Control Indicator (OD Off) to the PCM, Light Blue=from Low Coolant indicator to Low engine Coolant Swith which goes to Black Yellow/Red, Tachometer=Tan/yellow or Orange/white which goes to the PCM, The Tach also has Black/Yellow and another Black/Yellow, White/red=goes from oil pressure gauge to the engine oil pressure switch, The volt meter is Black/Light blu then splices to Black, then you have the Fuel gauge wich is spliced to the Slosh module Yellow /white then it goes to the Fuel gauge Sendor, Speedomter Pink/ orange and Grey/Black this goes to the Vehicle Speed Sensor. All of these wires are coming from the instrument cluster and going else where.
Find OEM operators manual for fuses and relays. Ignition switch fuse is 40amps=Yellow and goes to the ignition switch, o.k. the White/Pink wire goes from the ignition switch connects to the to Red/Blue goes to the Clutch Pedal Positon Switch from that is still White/Pink which goes to the Anti-Theft Controller Module, From the Anti-Theft module its Red/Light Blue which if you have automatic transmision goes the transmission Range Sensor, if not, it goes back to White/Pink then to your Starter Relay. Let me know if I left something out or you need to know where somthing is.

How do you know your altanator is o.k.? Is your battery reading 14 to 15 volts when running. Check your Alternator fuse, check your fusible links. Your voltage regulator could be on the fritz. On the back of the Alternator, I really don't think your cluster has anything to do with it! Just my two cents. Your alternator could functioning perfect and still be a dudd, I still think its your voltage regulator!