Starter having hard time to start causing my starter to stay on

Creomod

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He is correct about the battery, when you hit the key, because the battery is not fully charged, it heats up the wires and causes the starter to overheat and other stuff to happen.
I wouldn't mess with that starter, get a new one,
Those wires look to be ok but I'm not there so use good judgment on wire condition.
A battery can read 12+ volts static (no load), but slam a load on it (starter is a good example, also head lights) and it drops voltage below 12volts which is normal, drops too low and things start to heat up. Release the load (stop cranking or turn off the lights) and the battery will jump back up to 12+ volts, I've seen batteries drop all the way to 0 volt with a load and jump back to 12 volts when static.
This explains a slow crank problem more so when hot, if it was cranking over good when hot but not starting and you've tried stuff I would suggest unhooking that MSD box, wire the ignition back to stock, this eliminates the box from the equation.
When you were trying to restart the car you may have been cranking the engine for an extended period of time causing the overheated wires and the starter problem. Get this cranking issue resolved first, then work on the no start when hot issue.
Let us know what you're gonna do and what you need help with.
Hope this long post helps explain some things besides the fact that I've had too much coffee.
Ok I went to parts store,battery passed at 2 locations I had it charged either way,as for the starter it passed as well but I did get a new one along with new + wire but as I was looking at the wires I found this in the pic. At the fender the ecu ground wire one side looks good but the other end looks messed up. It has like 5 wires going in the ring and the other 10 all frayed looking. Could something like this cause issues I’ve been having? Stuck starter solonid/starter or a no start at time. I don’t know but I know it’s important lol
 

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7991LXnSHO

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It’s a problem for sure. I doubt it is THE problem, but it needs fixed. Now it’s time to check out the grounds and positive side cables and all connections on the big cables and the small grounds like you are doing.
Before we swamp you with info on checking for voltage drops, let’s see that meter you have.
 

Creomod

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It’s a problem for sure. I doubt it is THE problem, but it needs fixed. Now it’s time to check out the grounds and positive side cables and all connections on the big cables and the small grounds like you are doing.
Before we swamp you with info on checking for voltage drops, let’s see that meter you have.
Thank you soo much,here they are
 

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7991LXnSHO

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Thank you soo much,here they are
Yes! Any of the three will be useful for chasing down these issues. The two reasons I rarely use my analog meter any more are 1. The digital is easier to read than making sure I’m on the correct line 2. If I drop the HFT cheap meter, it’s not a big deal. So my two good meters are often neglected.

Before testing, have a wrench handy that will work to remove a battery cable if the solenoid sticks again. A 6” adjustable Crescent wrench works well for this. The first thing to do with the wrench if the solenoid sticks is to use the curved side of the wrench head to tap, but not break, the top of the solenoid (starter relay). That’s often enough to free the stick points in the relay.

Set the meter to a range that will test at least 12v DC. Touch or attach the black (negative) lead to a good ground. Pull the small trigger wire from the small post on the solenoid, and use the positive lead to make sure that wire has power when and only when the ignition key is in the start position.

The other steps have been posted many times. I will look for a good thread for you. But if someone finds a “testing for voltage drops” and other starting issues (besides the cranks, but no start) check list, PLEAE post it. It’s time we have it stickied under the tech threads. And if it’s already there, I need coffee to see it.
 
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Creomod

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Thanks fellas! Sorry I’m just seeing this. I actually got the car started went to junkyard in it Already but yes I’m gonna do this in a few.If it does have 12v when it shouldn’t what would that indicate? I did do a parisitic draw test earlier it was at 0.06 ( I think that’s 0.01 over).By the way I’d like to thank you so much Mr 7991lxnsho for helping me out. Above and beyond sir I appreciate you,And of course thank you Mr Kartheif(love that thumbnail). If it wasn’t for Good People like you I wouldn’t be able to have cars like these.You have no idea how much you help me every time I have a “stupid” question. I appreciate that & your patience with me.I have 2 foxs no other cars. I need my car to get me to work and home everyday to pay my bills,responsibilities my lively hood revolves around that car. I’ve had it 15 years & I don’t think I could ever part with it.My wife hates it because it soo much money goes into it,& sometimes It’s gotten so bad that I just wanna give up,but then I remember the Stangnet!I don’t even know a god darn mechanic Again from the bottom of my ❤️ thank you guys thank you.
 

7991LXnSHO

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I sure hope we can help get your car reliable again without a lot of hassle. It probably is not the trigger wire, but it’s an easy place to start testing, and it eliminates the headaches from one circuit.

If the trigger wire does not work right, (just power when holding the switch to start), we need to look between that wire end and the ignition switch, well, and the connector for the switch.

No power when it should get the same 12 + volts as the battery could be a bad wire, bad connection, or an ignition switch problem. And that will take some tracing with it being an intermittent issue.

Power that stays/sticks on at that trigger wire terminal is most likely the ignition switch. A crossed wire providing power is much less likely.

The halves of the switches can come loose, (there was a recall) and do goofy things.
 
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Creomod

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San Antonio,Texas
I sure hope we can help get your car reliable again without a lot of hassle. It probably is not the trigger wire, but it’s an easy place to start testing, and it eliminates the headaches from one circuit.

If the trigger wire does not work right, (just power when holding the switch to start), we need to look between that wire end and the ignition switch, well, and the connector for the switch.

No power when it should get the same 12 + volts as the battery could be a bad wire, bad connection, or an ignition switch problem. And that will take some tracing with it being an intermittent issue.

Power that stays/sticks on at that trigger wire terminal is most likely the ignition switch. A crossed wire providing power is much less likely.

The halves of the switches can come loose, (there was a recall) and do goofy things.
I actually did change the ignition connector about 2 years ago,I think I did it well but it is heavy and it does sag. I was going to add in 2 tie straps but I didn’t want it to pull out one of the butt connections i did.