1st off i just did a 3g alternator conversion. when i went to start the car right after i got finished for some reason my fuel pump wasnt turning on when i turned the key. usually you hear a whine for about 1-2 seconds when you 1st turn the key but this time nothing. the car would crank but wouldn't fire because of the fuel pump. i called it quits for the day cause i had work early and came home today to mess with it some more. now out of nowhere the fuel pump works fine and the car started right up with the noticeable changes from the 3g alternator. i turned on everything without any voltage drop what so ever so it seems the conversion was a success. i took the car out and ran it for like 30 minutes then went to the store so it was shut off for probably another 30. when i came out and tried to turn it on it behaved like the battery was dead. a click then nothing. so i popped the hood pulled off the leads on the battery and reapplied them, then the car started right up. any idea what is causing this? side note when i got out of the car and grabbed the door to shut it i noticed that i got a static shock like if you rub your socks on the carpet and touch metal which i don't think ive ever experienced before, maybe im just being paranoid.
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Clean the battery posts and block grounds.
Make sure that all the ground places are clean and shiny bare metal: no paint, no corrosion.
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kSkbTmtBZUc
The battery posts and inside of the battery post terminals should be scraped clean with a knife or battery post cleaner tool. This little trick will fix a surprising number of no start problems.
The clamp on with 2 bolts battery terminal ends are a known problem causer. Any place you see green on a copper wire is corrosion. Corrosion gets in the clamped joint and works its way up the wire under the insulation. Corroded connections do not conduct electricity well. Avoid them like the plague...
The secondary power ground is between the back of the intake manifold and the driver's side firewall. It is often missing or loose. It supplies ground for the alternator, A/C compressor clutch and other electrical accessories such as the gauges. The clue to a bad ground here is that the temp gauge goes up as you add electrical load such as heater, lights and A/C.
Any car that has a 3G or high output current alternator needs a 4 gauge ground wire running from the block to the chassis ground where the battery pigtail ground connects. The 3G has a 130 amp capacity, so you wire the power side with 4 gauge wire. It stands to reason that the ground side handles just as much current, so it needs to be 4 gauge too.
Static electricity is very common in the winter in most areas of the USA & Canada. When the weather cools down, the air holds less moisture and the probability of small static shocks increases.
Make sure that all the ground places are clean and shiny bare metal: no paint, no corrosion.
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kSkbTmtBZUc
The battery posts and inside of the battery post terminals should be scraped clean with a knife or battery post cleaner tool. This little trick will fix a surprising number of no start problems.
The clamp on with 2 bolts battery terminal ends are a known problem causer. Any place you see green on a copper wire is corrosion. Corrosion gets in the clamped joint and works its way up the wire under the insulation. Corroded connections do not conduct electricity well. Avoid them like the plague...
The secondary power ground is between the back of the intake manifold and the driver's side firewall. It is often missing or loose. It supplies ground for the alternator, A/C compressor clutch and other electrical accessories such as the gauges. The clue to a bad ground here is that the temp gauge goes up as you add electrical load such as heater, lights and A/C.
Any car that has a 3G or high output current alternator needs a 4 gauge ground wire running from the block to the chassis ground where the battery pigtail ground connects. The 3G has a 130 amp capacity, so you wire the power side with 4 gauge wire. It stands to reason that the ground side handles just as much current, so it needs to be 4 gauge too.
Static electricity is very common in the winter in most areas of the USA & Canada. When the weather cools down, the air holds less moisture and the probability of small static shocks increases.
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i have all 4 gauge wire, power running from the 3g alternator to starter solenoid. both battery lines are 4 gauge with brand new battery post terminals smooth lead. the ground in the back of the intake is there but covered in a oil/dust mixture. i think maybe the lead post terminals arent getting a good contact because a couple times when i tried turning it over it didnt crank but the dash lights seemed to flicker as if the power wasn't flowing continuously.
I like it when it is simple and easy, so I try to suggest those types of things first. Hope you enjoy your ride.
oh i did man took it on the highway to open her up for the 1st time in 2 weeks. runs like a top no amp light no voltage drop.
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