Starting Problem

BTSTDTRT....I had the same problem with my '86. The mini starter is a good alternative, but I would check other possibilities that may be causing the problem. I didn't have to buy the mini. Lets see:

1. Do a voltage drop test at the battery, cranking the engine cold and @op temp....how low does the voltage drops in both conditions?

2. Replace ground cable(s) with a thicker cable (0, 2/0), same thing with the solenoid-to-starter cable.

3. Make sure the RH ground strap, connected between the back cyl. head and firewall, is OK...I would install a second strap in a different location too.

4. What' the capacity of the battery you are using?...CA, CCA rates?

5. Ignition timing set @??° BTDC

LUK

bertman said:

Here is my readings :

cold no start 12.4 start 11.4
hot no start 12.6 start 9.5
something is wrong with this picture

Click to expand...

The 12.6/9.5 hot is a lot different from the12.4/11.4 cold. I would expcept less difference.

Here's a checklist - pay particular attention to the diagram showning how to measure volage drops.

Since some of the tests will bypass the safety interlocks, make sure that the car is in neutral and the parking brake is set. Becoming a pancake isn’t part of the repair process…

Check battery, terminal connections, ground, starter relay switch (also known as solenoid) and starter in that order.

A voltmeter is handy if you are familiar with how to use it to find bad connections. Measure the voltage drop across a connection: more than .5 volts across a connection indicates a problem.
See http://www.fluke.com/application_notes/automotive/circuit.asp?AGID=1&SID=103 for help


1.) Will the car start if it is jumped? Then clean battery terminals and check battery.

2.) Check the battery to engine block ground, and the ground behind the engine to the firewall.

3.) Jump the big terminals on the starter relay next to the battery with a screwdriver - watch out for the sparks! If the engine cranks, the starter and power wiring is good. The starter relay is also known as a starter solenoid.

4.) Then pull the small push on connector (red wire) off the starter relay (Looks like it is stuck on a screw). Then jump between the screw and the terminal that is connected to the battery. If it starts, the relay is good and your problem is in the rest of the circuit.

5.) Remember to check the ignition switch, neutral safety switch on auto trans and the clutch safety switch on manual trans cars. If they are good, then you have wiring problems. See http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d80195963.gif for 88-90 year cars .OR see http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d80195964.gif for 91-93 year cars. See http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/1d/db/3c/0900823d801ddb3c.jsp for 94-95 model cars.

6.) The starter may be hung, loosen up the bolts that hold it on, and give it a good whack with a big hammer. Tighten up the bolts and try again.

7.) If that doesn't work, use a jumper cable from the positive lead on the battery direct to the starter post where the big wire from the relay connects. If it cranks then, it is the power wire from the relay gone bad. This will be hard to do, since there isn't much room to do it.

8.) Pull the starter and take it to Autozone or Pep Boys and have them test it. Starter fails test, then replace it. If you got this far, the starter is probably bad.