Steering and Suspension

ballajb64 · Aug 9, 2010

I just did a lot of upgrades to my motor and just changed to 3:80 gears with trac lock posi... Now that i have done those things i still have not been able to really feel the power i have added because of my suspension. I have purchased traction bars that I have not put on yet but what else should i purchase for a better ride that i feel I am in control of

2+2GT · Aug 9, 2010

1) If the bars you got are not genuine Traction Masters, send them back now, and get and install the real ones.

2) Relocate the upper control arms.
http://site.cobranda.com/tech/barinstall.pdf

3) Install a 1" front sway bar.

4) Install Kyaba KYB Gas-A-Just shocks, or equivalent.

5) Install GT-rate front and rear springs.

Some of this must be done at the same time, of course. Ideally, all of it. Shopping around helps- You can get the rear springs, with attaching hardware and shackles for under $200, for example.

After the above is done, you won't know it's the same car.

PoppyMod · Aug 9, 2010

ballajb64 said:
I just did a lot of upgrades to my motor and just changed to 3:80 gears with trac lock posi... Now that i have done those things i still have not been able to really feel the power i have added because of my suspension. I have purchased traction bars that I have not put on yet but what else should i purchase for a better ride that i feel I am in control of

If you want to do the Shelby drop, I have a set of UCAs setup for the 1.5" drop and the drilling guide plates, as well.
The arms have 90 deg greaseable shafts too.
PM, if interested.

ballajb64 · Aug 9, 2010

that is exactly what i want, i want the car to feel totally different... Right now i can not enjoy the upgrades that i have made and i spent a lot of money. Right now when i step on the gas the car pulls to the right and then when i let off the gas it straightens up...

ballajb64 · Aug 9, 2010

oh and the traction bars that i have are grab-a-trak

JonK · Aug 9, 2010

ballajb64 said:
that is exactly what i want, i want the car to feel totally different... Right now i can not enjoy the upgrades that i have made and i spent a lot of money. Right now when i step on the gas the car pulls to the right and then when i let off the gas it straightens up...

Sounds like subframe connectors would benefit you, what HP/TQ are you guesstimating?

From what I've read numerous times I'd agree with 2+2GT, genuine traction masters are the ones that work properly, lots of knockoffs but none perform like theirs from all the posts I've seen and racers that endorse them. I don't have them yet, they may be a future upgrade, I found their website but believe there are a few resellers to check price:
Traction Master Company

Looks like they're ~$120 from them direct, not bad for a pair I'd say as the knockoffs are $100/pr.:
TRACTION MASTER Bar Applications

Jon

phutch11 · Aug 9, 2010

Before you spend any more money, make sure that your u bolts are torqued down to spec. I had the same symptoms you describe and found that while I had tightened down the u bolts they were not as tight as the spec, which is something like 60 ftlbs.

Tightening them to spec solved the problems.

Good luck....

mustangmutt · Aug 9, 2010

I would start out with Sub Frame Connectors. They might not add traction, but they stiffen up the whole unibody. Ever wonder why coups crack at the lower rear corner of the quarter window? That will give you have a stable foundation to build off of. Then you can do the Shelby drop, Traction Masters, 1" front Sway Bar and I would add to that a 3/4 rear bar. Get the adjustable one that attaches under the axle. It allows the most room for exhaust routing.

tx65coupe · Aug 9, 2010

I would get subframe connectors too. Also the traction masters front attatching point is where the subframe connector would be so I would put it on first. I would also get a monte carlo bar and a one piece export brace. Then go with the KYBs and GT springs etc. This is basically how my car is setup and I love it.

j69302 · Aug 9, 2010

Maire racing makes some great subframes. I have them on mine and If I jack up either one of the front tires, I can get that sides rear wheel off the ground by just having the jack under one of the front wheels.

mustangmutt · Aug 9, 2010

tx65coupe said:
I would get subframe connectors too. Also the traction masters front attatching point is where the subframe connector would be so I would put it on first.

I totally agree. I put some SFC's on and found that I could incorporate the front mount for the Traction bars into the SFC's giving them another attachment point to the frame, thus adding more strength.

68RCodeConv · Aug 13, 2010

What you describe is downright scary and you need to find the cause right away. Loose U-bolts in the rear? Bad steering parts? Bad suspension parts (strut rods)? Loose front wheel bearings?

As for traction - Caltracs are the absolute best traction device there is. No welding required and very adjustable. Worth every penny if you are trying to put power to the ground.

And if you want to avoid whiplash and having to wear a kidney belt stay away from the Gas-a-justs. Especially on a lowered car - they will beat you to death. Go ahead and get a set of Bilsteins or Konis. You will be glad you did.

rbohm · Aug 13, 2010

2+2GT said:
1) If the bars you got are not genuine Traction Masters, send them back now, and get and install the real ones.

2) Relocate the upper control arms.
http://site.cobranda.com/tech/barinstall.pdf

3) Install a 1" front sway bar.

4) Install Kyaba KYB Gas-A-Just shocks, or equivalent.

5) Install GT-rate front and rear springs.

Some of this must be done at the same time, of course. Ideally, all of it. Shopping around helps- You can get the rear springs, with attaching hardware and shackles for under $200, for example.

After the above is done, you won't know it's the same car.

in addition to the above, i would add subframe connectors, and a center stiffening cage like the one total control put out, and i would add a 3/4 rear sway bar as well. include the monte carlo bar, and the export brace, the one shalby used not the ones with heim joints built in, and you will have a stiff chassis that allows suspension mods to work properly without increasing spring rates.

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