Synthetic to Motorcraft oil?

fox-gt

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Feb 28, 2004

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TN

Dec 8, 2006

#1

• Dec 8, 2006

• #1

I have done two oil changes since my engine was rebuilt. Both with synthetic oil. I no longer take my car to the garage that used to change my oil. I am not at a place where I can do it myself. The ford dealer said Motorcraft Oil was partially synthetic blended.

Would it be bad to switch from synthetic oil to motorcraft oil?

I have had really good experiences with the local dealer with my other cars but I want to do what is best for my engine.

Thanks

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

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#2

• Dec 8, 2006

• #2

It's up to you, but Motorcraft 10W-30 and less viscous M-Craft oils are blends (I believe that 10W40 is a conventional oil, for instance). You will not go wrong either way but synthetic arguably offers better protection.

You might also be able to bring your own oil in and they can use that for your oil change.

Good luck.

 

bubba-dough

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Dec 28, 2004

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#3

• Dec 8, 2006

• #3

+1. The main thing is to keep the oil changed reguarly

 

the98stang

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#4

• Dec 8, 2006

• #4

Aparently synthetics can stay in there for 7K+ miles before needing a change. I would be more concerned about the oil filter.

 

sgarlic

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Apr 21, 2001

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#5

• Dec 8, 2006

• #5

The motorcraft synthetic blends almost always return excellent looking used oil analysis's (or is it analysii?) over at the bobistheoilguy forums. In fact, I recently got a UOA back from Blackstone Labs from my minivan running MC 5w20. Came back looking excellent. Plenty of service life left, and this was at ~3k miles all stop and go driving.

 

MikeC

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Dec 9, 2006

#6

• Dec 9, 2006

• #6

I use the Motorcraft 10-30 semi-synthetic in my 92. $2 a quart at Wallymart.

 

stangbear427

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Nov 11, 2002

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Dec 9, 2006

#7

• Dec 9, 2006

• #7

Me too, but I get it at Autobone for $2.95. I haven't seen what I get at Walmart. I never heard that ALL motorcraft oils are blended synth though... there's Motorcraft "regular" 10-30 on the shelf (for over a dollar less per quart) right next to the blended 10-30 that I buy . Interesting.

 

jtfairlane

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#8

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• #8

Of all the different types of oils I've used in 3 different motors, which includes Kendall GT-1, Valvoline, Quaker State, Pennzoil, Shell, Chevron, Mobil Drive Clean, Mobil 1 Synthetic...

and of all the different oil filters I have used which include Fram (yuck), K&N, Wix, Motorcraft, STP, and others...

No combination has worked better for me than Motorcraft 10W-30 synthetic blend with a Motorcraft FL-1A filter. By "worked better" I mean after 3000 miles, with this filter and that oil the oil still looks brand new with no noticeable darkening in the oil.

 

HISSIN50

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#9

• Dec 9, 2006

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FWIW, darkening of the oil isn't a real great indicator of anything. Dark oil indicates that particulate is being suspended in the media, which is a good thing.

In my experience (Jess' might be the same) some motors simply get the oil darker than others.

 

jtfairlane

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#10

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and shouldn't that particulate get picked up by the filter?

 

QUICK91LX

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Dec 9, 2006

#11

• Dec 9, 2006

• #11

thats what "suspended in the media" means

 

O

OrLackThereof

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Dec 9, 2006

#12

• Dec 9, 2006

• #12

jtfairlane said:

and shouldn't that particulate get picked up by the filter?

Click to expand...

Well no filter can trap 100% of the foreign particles passing through it, thats why they stamp micron ratings on some of the higher-end filters....

I used to run Mobil 1 10w30 and an FL1a all the time, the Motorcraft filter is excellent. The ONLY reason I run a K&N filter now, is because I installed an HV oil pump, but it seems to be exceeding my block's ability to actually FLOW the oil, so the pressure skyrocketed..80 psi cold idle, cruises at 75 psi....and I was tripping the bypass on every filter I slapped on there, except the K&N..

 

O

OrLackThereof

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#13

• Dec 9, 2006

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REPOST