the correct spark plug? part # please

fiveoho

15 Year Member

Apr 28, 2005

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Mar 6, 2010

#1

• Mar 6, 2010

• #1

2000 GT . stock .

autolite or motorcraft? im looking for the exact plug that came in the car factory. im assuming motorcraft.

lots of different options. summit and my local autozone seem to have several different flavors of each. please help me with the following:

-correct part # & brand
-factory gap specs
-torque specs


thanks!

 

R

ran260gt

New Member

Sep 7, 2005

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Mar 6, 2010

#2

• Mar 6, 2010

• #2

Motorcraft SP-493

You can order all 8 from American Muscle for 30 bucks !

 

fiveoho

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Mar 7, 2010

#3

• Mar 7, 2010

• #3

thanks man.

factory gap?

 

nancygrl

Member

Nov 25, 2009

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Mar 7, 2010

#4

• Mar 7, 2010

• #4

I changed out my plugs last week in my 99GT...... sparkplug gap .052 - .056, at least that is what it says on the tag under my hood. I checked each one before installing, but the gap was spot on.
Gap should be the same for your 2000GT....oh, yeah..torque specs 13 ft/lbs. $3.09 each, all 8 from advance auto for $24.72.

 

fiveoho

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Mar 8, 2010

#5

• Mar 8, 2010

• #5

nancygrl said:

I changed out my plugs last week in my 99GT...... sparkplug gap .052 - .056, at least that is what it says on the tag under my hood. I checked each one before installing, but the gap was spot on.
Gap should be the same for your 2000GT....oh, yeah..torque specs 13 ft/lbs. $3.09 each, all 8 from advance auto for $24.72.

Click to expand...

thanks nancy!

did you use anti seize? ive heard mixed opinions about it.

nice lookin' car btw. i owned a chrome yellow 99 gt myself two summers ago. however, i like yours better. clean

 

nancygrl

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Nov 25, 2009

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Mar 8, 2010

#6

• Mar 8, 2010

• #6

No problem....Thanks, I couldn't pass it up. I got it just before Thanksgiving last yr. Nicest one I could find that wasn't beat up. Wish it was a manual instead of autmatic, but that can be remedied Yours is a nice red rocket too.

Umm, I saw mixed reviews on the anti-seize also. I changed mine as a matter of not knowing the maint. history about the previous owner and wanting to know where everything was for my own piece of mind.
All my plugs were tight and didn't see any anti-seize on them, so I didn't put any on the new ones. (plus I thought I had some but I didn't). Knowing the issue with the plugs, I'll keep an ear out for any ticking noises from here on out.

 

K

Kilgore Trout

Fried or Broiled ?

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Mar 30, 2005

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Mar 8, 2010

#7

• Mar 8, 2010

• #7

Once you put antiseize on your plugs it gets on the head threads and there is no going back.

Consider it carefully and then make your decision... People are generally split even on if it should be used.

I use it very sparingly, and I use copper based.

 

Rickyll7

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Dec 16, 2005

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Mar 8, 2010

#8

• Mar 8, 2010

• #8

Why would you not want to use it?

 

K

Kilgore Trout

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Mar 8, 2010

#9

• Mar 8, 2010

• #9

The reasons for not using IIRC it are generally:
-throws off torque wrench reading, makes it harder to torque properly
-can be problematic if it somehow gets in the chamber or on porcelain
-once in there is in there forever

Like I said I use it but people will criticize the use of it all day long while others will swear its the way to go...

 

Rickyll7

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Dec 16, 2005

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Mar 8, 2010

#10

• Mar 8, 2010

• #10

I've been using it for years with no problems yet. It sounds like there are a lot of people who don't use it with out issue as well, so I don't see what the big debate is all about.

 

K

Kilgore Trout

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Mar 8, 2010

#11

• Mar 8, 2010

• #11

Do you use copper or nickel based anti-seize? I have always heard it is best to use copper...

 

Rickyll7

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Dec 16, 2005

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Mar 8, 2010

#12

• Mar 8, 2010

• #12

I don't know... I'll have to check.

This is what I use.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Permatex/775/81343/10002/-1?parentProductId=752342