Progress Thread The "grátis" 1966 Coupe project

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horse sence

That $5 hooker turn out to be a guy
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This is starting to get good ! When you start on the floor , screw it to the out side edges first ,it will stretch the floor out ,then work your way in to the center ,clamping the floor to the wheel tubs will pull that area together
 

horse sence

That $5 hooker turn out to be a guy
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For any holes that mis or slightly mis ,get a piece of copper pipe and hammer one end flat and bend the flat end about 45* ,you hold this tight on tbe back side and you can fill in holes or even burn through . The copper acts as a back stop for the weld and it will not stick to the copper
 
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02 281 GT

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My two weeks vacation ended yesterday, so work will get a little slower for now. Gonna try to get the outer rocker replaced/inner repaired and floor welded in before the end of May.
 
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02 281 GT

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One more question for @horse sence

According to the measurement chart, it's supposed to be 43" between the center of the rear frame rails. Mine measured 42¾". Is there any tolerance for that specification?
 

horse sence

That $5 hooker turn out to be a guy
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These cars are different from car to car ,i have seen them lean from side to side . A lot of people think they were built on a jig ,but they were actually built on a skid and pretty much hand assembled so measurements can be slightly different from blue prints
Screenshot_20181114-155457.png
 
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02 281 GT

Agreed...My wife has great Boobs
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These cars are different from car to car ,i have seen them lean from side to side . A lot of people think they were built on a jig ,but they were actually built on a skid and pretty much hand assembled so measurements can be slightly different from blue prints
Screenshot_20181114-155457.png
Okay. The driver’s rear frame rail was angled further down than the passenger side. I had to jack that side up ever so slightly to get the whole back end level.

I was just concerned because I remember that frame rail moving when I cut the trunk brace out. Not sure what I’ll tackle after the floor is in, but it’ll probably be either the trunk floor or the fender aprons.

My current to do/replace list:
Passenger outer rocker
Address rear portion of quarters and wheel arch rust on passenger side
Trunk floors, support, and tail panel
Fender aprons and radiator support
Weld in patches to dash

Where should I take my measurements when before I remove the old trunk floors? I’m planning to replace them because of accident damage.

Also, what’s your opinion of Dynacorn trunk lids? My original is bowed from being rear ended along with a ripped out lock similar to the dash. Been trying to find an original but have been unsuccessful.
 

horse sence

That $5 hooker turn out to be a guy
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You need to measure the upper opening and the lower opening where the tank will set ,you also need to measure the side of the trunk drop off to the edge of the frame rail on both sides. The rear floor cross member will go in first and that helps position the trunk floors
 
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02 281 GT

Agreed...My wife has great Boobs
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You need to measure the upper opening and the lower opening where the tank will set ,you also need to measure the side of the trunk drop off to the edge of the frame rail on both sides. The rear floor cross member will go in first and that helps position the trunk floors
So these are the measurements I need?
DSC_1824.JPG DSC_1856.JPG

And weld in the rear support first since it pretty much locates itself?

That seems pretty doable.
 

02 281 GT

Agreed...My wife has great Boobs
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Making some preparations for my next moves on the car. I've decided to see if I can fabricate some new flanges for the quarter extension brackets since I have nothing to lose with these rear quarters. If successful, I'll be able to save the driver's quarter entirely and just get a skin to patch the rusted wheel arch and damaged drop off section on the passenger side.

I made some templates since I have a ton of cardboard sitting in the garage. I didn't bother making templates for the outboard flange on the passenger side since a new skin will come with this flange (I was able to see what a skin looks like on a youtube video). There's plenty of metal left from the toe board patches to work with.
kKNiEcI.jpg


I'll use a small piece to patch up and back fill that rust hole on the top of the quarter.
dZ1p6DC.jpg

NPkwS0s.jpg

IDkXqMX.jpg


I also did some more hammering on the dent at the bottom of the driver's quarter. I'll probably be able to save that area and smooth it with some filler. I'll use the copper trick to fill the hole.
mGtP9WM.jpg

gQDypCd.jpg


If it doesn't work, no big deal. If it does, then I save myself some money and increase my fab skills. :shrug:
 

02 281 GT

Agreed...My wife has great Boobs
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I was tossing around the idea of getting some sheet steel and making a metal glove box insert instead of the cardboard one it originally came with. I'd need to buy a replacement cardboard one to use as a template, but I think it would be doable. One question, though: would it be possible to even get it in place when it's constructed?
 
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02 281 GT

Agreed...My wife has great Boobs
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Money is tight this past payday, so I’m probably not going to repair the rocker and get the floor welded in until the end of June. I’ll get something done over the Memorial Day weekend, though. I’ll be trying out the metal repairs on the ends of the quarters.
 
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