Progress Thread The "grátis" 1966 Coupe project

02 281 GT

Agreed...My wife has great Boobs
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#41
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Davedacarpainter

I think I've messed my pants
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#42
None of those is an epoxy primer.

Though the P30 series of high build primers is one of the best primers I've used though. You would still need an etch primer with this first. That's what the PE995 is.

Other than just for an initial coating to protect your bare metal, I wouldn't use NP75. It's a direct to metal primer, meaning you wouldn't need the etch first. It isn't nearly as easy to use when blocking the panels out. But could be fairly ideal for you for just protecting the panel.

Polyester primer is overkill. It used to come in handy prior to Paintless Dent Repair became popular after hail storms. It would fill in small hail dents that the bodymen would inevitably miss. I really haven't used it in years though.

So if you don't want to use an epoxy, and you don't mind spending a chunk of change, I would think the NP75 would be the way to go to just protect your metal.

Like I mentioned, the P30 series of primers from SW are some of the best on the market. Keep in mind that I've used practically every major brand out there and am using Sikkens right now.

That said, those are all expensive. SW believes all of their products are made of gold.
 

02 281 GT

Agreed...My wife has great Boobs
10 Year Member
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#43
None of those is an epoxy primer.

Though the P30 series of high build primers is one of the best primers I've used though. You would still need an etch primer with this first. That's what the PE995 is.

Other than just for an initial coating to protect your bare metal, I wouldn't use NP75. It's a direct to metal primer, meaning you wouldn't need the etch first. It isn't nearly as easy to use when blocking the panels out. But could be fairly ideal for you for just protecting the panel.

Polyester primer is overkill. It used to come in handy prior to Paintless Dent Repair became popular after hail storms. It would fill in small hail dents that the bodymen would inevitably miss. I really haven't used it in years though.

So if you don't want to use an epoxy, and you don't mind spending a chunk of change, I would think the NP75 would be the way to go to just protect your metal.

Like I mentioned, the P30 series of primers from SW are some of the best on the market. Keep in mind that I've used practically every major brand out there and am using Sikkens right now.

That said, those are all expensive. SW believes all of their products are made of gold.
The different kinds of paints and primers are confusing. It's not that I'm against using an epoxy, it's just that I honestly couldn't tell if they were epoxies or not.

It almost sounds like I should just go get a gallon of epoxy-whatever from O'Reilly if all I'm looking to do is protect the metal until I can start repairs?
 

Davedacarpainter

I think I've messed my pants
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#44
The different kinds of paints and primers are confusing. It's not that I'm against using an epoxy, it's just that I honestly couldn't tell if they were epoxies or not.

It almost sounds like I should just go get a gallon of epoxy-whatever from O'Reilly if all I'm looking to do is protect the metal until I can start repairs?
I think that sums it up wrll
 

Goeking

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#46
I'm starting to plan out my garage air system. Would a filter/dryer assembly such as this be adequate for drying the air when priming the car?

View: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H7N4BV6/
That's what I installed in my system. I'm in Florida so I've got big problems with humidity. The dryer the better. I'm running a Harbor Freight big cabinet sand blaster and you need dry air to keep your media flowing.
 

02 281 GT

Agreed...My wife has great Boobs
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#47
Small progress today. With the exception of the front control arms and rear leaf springs, I've removed everything that can be removed with regular tools.
90QeLfU.jpg

PlI9wF2.jpg


This one's for you, Dave.
TNHmYEV.jpg


Next plan is to get a bunch of spot weld cutters and an extra set of jackstands so I can start removing the sway bar and torsion bar mounts. In the meantime I'll build my water trap system and get a MIG welder. Hopefully I'll get it blasted no later than next spring.
 

02 281 GT

Agreed...My wife has great Boobs
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#48
Quick question for @horse sence and @Davedacarpainter
Is there a good shop/body manual you could recommend for this car that includes measurements to ensure the body is square? I was just thinking in the back of my head, what if there is slight frame damage given the evidence of a fender bender and rear end accidents?

Also, should I wait until I get the car media blasted before I get the car level on stands and start removing any sheetmetal? I'm fully expecting to have to replace both quarters with the rust around the taillights and large dents in various areas. I was thinking it might be good to have them off so the blaster can get at the metal underneath.
 

Davedacarpainter

I think I've messed my pants
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#51
Quick question for @horse sence and @Davedacarpainter
Is there a good shop/body manual you could recommend for this car that includes measurements to ensure the body is square? I was just thinking in the back of my head, what if there is slight frame damage given the evidence of a fender bender and rear end accidents?

Also, should I wait until I get the car media blasted before I get the car level on stands and start removing any sheetmetal? I'm fully expecting to have to replace both quarters with the rust around the taillights and large dents in various areas. I was thinking it might be good to have them off so the blaster can get at the metal underneath.
Snoop around for an old Mitchell manual (s).

Before the dawn of computers we used to have to look things like measurements up in books:eek:!

We’d have our pet dinosaurs fetch them for us.;)
 

Davedacarpainter

I think I've messed my pants
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#59
Do either of you have experience with wider wheel houses such as the ones at the top of this page?
Not me, that’s horse sence’s area there.

I’m not trying to say anything here, but my spell checker wanted to keep correcting horse sence to horse crap.

I’m sure it doesn’t mean anything though......
 

horse sence

That $5 hooker turn out to be a guy
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#60
Not me, that’s horse sence’s area there.

I’m not trying to say anything here, but my spell checker wanted to keep correcting horse sence to horse crap.

I’m sure it doesn’t mean anything though......
Hey ,weight a minute here ...ok i will let it slide this time