Progress Thread The "grátis" 1966 Coupe project

horse sence

That $5 hooker turn out to be a guy
Mod Dude
Nov 29, 1999
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The driveway shop looks so clean.



I Love hitting stuff with a hammer!


I'm really enjoying this build. Keep on it and keep posting all these great pictures.
Thanks for posting. Can't wait for it to start going back together.
I have been told that because i like to do my metal work outside under a car port that my conversions are junk ,i have a 7 car shop ,but i dont like to have to move everything out to sweep out metal shavings and grindings ,that is a mess ,and outside you dont have to worry about welding fumes . Pull out your tape measure in your shop to 24 inches ,now go outside and pull it out to 24 inches ...its the same thing isnt it ! Same with a level ,so keep on keeping on
 
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2Blue2

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..se ,you do know what you are doing .
:cautious:

. A buddy of mine came over and helped me remove the cowl.
This makes it more fun! Best looking inside cowl I ever seen. I done 3 myself. Usually the vent hats are falling out.

Does anyone have any tips on keeping junk out of the cowl area in the future?
I have thought long and hard about this for years. I've used the magnetic cowl covers and used the clear plastic cowl covers on my 65. Both these options suck.
I think.
1. Top of cowl needs to be removable with fenders and hood on.
2. Cowl is critical structural support.

My plan is to make top inch or so of cowl removeable,
Hide cut line by cowl to hood seal.
Cut at 1/2 inch on both sides next to fender. and lip under windshield chrome.
This all would help to make it look stock.

To do this I thin i would use two cowls and make top one lip over the other. Basically your cutting top hole in existing cowl.
Then by removing windshield moulding you could access new cowl cover
You would have to run some 1 inch square tube around and box lower portion to put the strength back in it.
This idea needs further development.

I think that Horse Sense could think this thru and explain it better or even come with a better version of this idea.
 

02 281 GT

Agreed...My wife has great Boobs
10 Year Member
Feb 3, 2009
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I wish you were a bit closer ,i have a stack of Dynacorn rockers ,the shipping would make it not worth it though i am afraid
One of the cheapest prices I've found online is $113 for a new outer rocker. Might be cheaper to ship one? :shrug:
 

02 281 GT

Agreed...My wife has great Boobs
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Check out page 4 on my sticky thread ...coupe to fast back conversion ,i had to patch a rusty rocker ,this would be a easy ...sort of ,way for your repair View attachment 623207
I need some clarification. When you say that I need to support the frame rails and make sure it's level, I had some issues I mentioned before where I tried to get the rear level along with the middle and front of the car. The middle and front were easy to get level, but I wasn't sure where to put my levels to do the same for the rear. I initially put my levels on either side of the fuel tank flange. The showed that the driver's side needed to come up, however, almost as soon as I started jacking the rear driver's frame rail, the car started coming off the stands on the rockers.

So, where do I need to jack the car in the rear to level it, and where is the optimal place to put my levels to ensure it's level out back?

Would it make any difference for the car's rigidity if I installed the new floor pan before doing the rocker patch?
 

02 281 GT

Agreed...My wife has great Boobs
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@horse sence Would you be able to get me some measurements off of your coupe (or fastback) for me? I wasn't able to get good measurements from the engine bay or the rear trunk support because of the damage.

I was wanting to try to get measurements from the cowl to the edge of both aprons, across the aprons, and diagonally across if necessary. Not sure where is the best place to measure in the trunk. All I really need is the measurements and the points to and from where they're taken.
 

02 281 GT

Agreed...My wife has great Boobs
10 Year Member
Feb 3, 2009
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horse sence

That $5 hooker turn out to be a guy
Mod Dude
Nov 29, 1999
8,411
2,273
233
Wile Coyote's stunt double
Got a couple of measurements for you .
From the notch in the top of the cowl from the front edge ,to the front of the radiator support is 44 1/4
20190404_130847.jpg
20190404_130914.jpg

The radiator support centers its self ,it just fits between the rails and welds to the bottom lip of the front lower brace
20190404_131046.jpg
 

horse sence

That $5 hooker turn out to be a guy
Mod Dude
Nov 29, 1999
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Wile Coyote's stunt double
The rear aprons are 4 inches in from the side of the cowl to the flat part of the hinge aprons,not the bevel.
20190404_130957.jpg

The rear trunk brace simply sets in place with the outer edges meeting the trunk drop off ,dont have a pic but set your new one in place and you will see
 

02 281 GT

Agreed...My wife has great Boobs
10 Year Member
Feb 3, 2009
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The rear aprons are 4 inches in from the side of the cowl to the flat part of the hinge aprons,not the bevel. View attachment 624180
The rear trunk brace simply sets in place with the outer edges meeting the trunk drop off ,dont have a pic but set your new one in place and you will see
Is any measuring required when replacing the trunk floors themselves? With the damage to the drop offs and elsewhere I'm thinking I may do those as well since they'd be fairly easy to get to with all the other work I'm doing back there.
 

horse sence

That $5 hooker turn out to be a guy
Mod Dude
Nov 29, 1999
8,411
2,273
233
Wile Coyote's stunt double
Is any measuring required when replacing the trunk floors themselves? With the damage to the drop offs and elsewhere I'm thinking I may do those as well since they'd be fairly easy to get to with all the other work I'm doing back there.
Yes ,take measurements befor you remove anything ,take a few pics for placement as well
 

02 281 GT

Agreed...My wife has great Boobs
10 Year Member
Feb 3, 2009
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Yes ,take measurements befor you remove anything ,take a few pics for placement as well
What would be the places you would measure at when replacing trunk floors? I have an idea, but I want to be sure before I get to cutting.
 

02 281 GT

Agreed...My wife has great Boobs
10 Year Member
Feb 3, 2009
1,602
821
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Wichita Falls, TX
Another question for @horse sence

I can’t find two-piece front torque boxes anywhere for ‘65-‘66. Only ones I can find that aren’t welded already are ‘67-‘68 torque boxes. Is there any difference in the torque boxes for those model years? Seems like everyone who buys the welded versions has to cut them apart to get them to fit correctly.

Edit: I also need to ask, how difficult is it to install torque boxes on a car that didn't have them originally? It looks like the best time to install them would be when I patch the toe boards?
 
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