Progress Thread The "grátis" 1966 Coupe - final sheet metal repairs

  • Sponsors (?)


67 -68 is the same ,best time to ad them is when you have the toe boards cut out ,they over lap the floor support so a 1 piece torque box is very hard to get in without trimming
Awesome. Thanks. I've been looking at pictures of both and couldn't for the life of me see what the difference was. Even CJ on their site told someone who asked that the two piece won't fit '65-'66. Good to know.
 
A quick update: I have a couple weeks of vacation starting next week, during which time I plan to get started with patching the toe boards and (hopefully) getting a new floor pan in.

I got my hands on a welding helmet and now only require an extension cord for the welder and a gas bottle. I got my new assignment this week to Little Rock AFB, Arkansas. Since we'll be moving this time next year I'm going to see about renting a bottle locally for now. The local Airgas outlet has them on their site for about $85.

I also grabbed an Ingersoll Rand air body saw that I hope will perform better than the HF electric saw. That should be arriving by the end of this week.

So beginning of next week I'll be ordering patch panels for the toe boards, torque boxes, a new floor pan, and possibly the trunk floors and rear support. I'm also looking to get two full quarters to use to patch the areas that need it on my originals.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 2 users
A quick update: I have a couple weeks of vacation starting next week, during which time I plan to get started with patching the toe boards and (hopefully) getting a new floor pan in.

I got my hands on a welding helmet and now only require an extension cord for the welder and a gas bottle. I got my new assignment this week to Little Rock AFB, Arkansas. Since we'll be moving this time next year I'm going to see about renting a bottle locally for now. The local Airgas outlet has them on their site for about $85.

I also grabbed an Ingersoll Rand air body saw that I hope will perform better than the HF electric saw. That should be arriving by the end of this week.

So beginning of next week I'll be ordering patch panels for the toe boards, torque boxes, a new floor pan, and possibly the trunk floors and rear support. I'm also looking to get two full quarters to use to patch the areas that need it on my originals.
I have the same saw a d i use it every day ,you will like it
 
I have the same saw a d i use it every day ,you will like it
It shipped from Dallas, so it arrived rather quickly. This thing is compact! I'm looking forward to trying it out. I mostly bought it so I could make more precise cuts like when I cut the dash to patch the ignition cylinder and radio opening.
IMG_6842.JPG
 
  • Like
Reactions: 2 users
@horse sence @Davedacarpainter Need some advice! I found another local media blasting place that I didn't know about. Tons of five-star reviews from happy customers. I gave the guy a call during which I expressed my concern about metal warping with sand blasting (he doesn't do the dustless type). Well, he swore up and down that he's done "hundreds" of cars without warping metal because he "moves quickly" and doesn't "stay in one spot too long". What do y'all think? Is it worth the risk?

The best part is that he quoted me a price of $350-$500 to blast the whole car. I just have to bring it to him to get it done.
 
I asked on a local page and am getting only positive feedback so far. Nothing specifically from anyone who had a car blasted, though. Maybe I should just go for it and if anything gets warped, just go ahead and do a fastback conversion? :confused:
 
I don't know. I should probably just stick with my current plan of replacing the sheet metal and blasting it later on one section at a time with a HF pressurized blaster. Strip large panels with the DA.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user