Progress Thread The "grátis" 1966 Coupe - final sheet metal repairs

[horse sence]

The head light assembly is pot metal ,doesnt weld as easy as aluminum ,it melts away very easily . I have heard of people using a tig welder to weld them . I have done several with a torch and rod made for pot metal but is isnt easy ,and it will simply melt away if you are not very care full .
I have some old junk 67 assembly's, i may play around with my tig and see what happens ,i can turn the temp to almost nothing

 

[2Blue2]

Silver Solder might be an reasonable option with lower temp
but I've never tried it

 

[02 281 GT]

I think if swapping to a T5 I would prefer the SN95 version...might as well bring the shifter just a little closer while you are at it with the longer bell and input shaft.

Why not try to weld them? Sure they are pot metal, but easy to weld if you have a TIG(lots of different rods available) and still possible with both a MIG and an ARC welder(though you would need a pretty small stick and pretty low heat there)

I don't have a TIG, so that's out of the question for me at the moment. I'll probably just get some PBA and replicate the JB Weld repair kit that's out there.

 

[02 281 GT]

Moving prep is in full swing. Finally got my official orders for the move, so everything is getting kicked into high gear!

I'm still planning to take a week off first week of February to give me enough time to put the rear end of the car back together since I have all those parts already. I bought some standard (non-swivel tip) clamps (five 11", two 6") to help with the occasion.

I also ordered a high-crown cross peen hammer to use when I eventually roll my wheel arches @horse sence style.

 

[wicked93gs]

You do know that Eastwood offers a fender roller for $80 right? Capable of rolling the quarters as well. If $80 is too big of a spend for a one-time use tool, I am sure you cant rent one from someone off your local craigslist for $20 or so. That being said, I wish I had a peen hammer, would make a lot of metalwork a lot easier.

 

[02 281 GT]

You do know that Eastwood offers a fender roller for $80 right? Capable of rolling the quarters as well. If $80 is too big of a spend for a one-time use tool, I am sure you cant rent one from someone off your local craigslist for $20 or so. That being said, I wish I had a peen hammer, would make a lot of metalwork a lot easier.

I've seen it. I may still go that route. I was planning on rolling the lips using the method horse sence used here: https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/how-to-roll-a-wheel-lip.859975/

 

[horse sence]

You do know that Eastwood offers a fender roller for $80 right? Capable of rolling the quarters as well. If $80 is too big of a spend for a one-time use tool, I am sure you cant rent one from someone off your local craigslist for $20 or so. That being said, I wish I had a peen hammer, would make a lot of metalwork a lot easier.

The results arnt as good as hand rolling them

 

[wicked93gs]

Its a good trick for sure...does it work on rear quarters that are installed? That double lip is pretty hard to move...especially once its been plug welded.

 

[02 281 GT]

Its a good trick for sure...does it work on rear quarters that are installed? That double lip is pretty hard to move...especially once its been plug welded.

There’s also a method for the rears, yes. It’s later on down in the same thread.

I’m planning to get a rotisserie for this car after the move. That’ll make it much easier.

 

[wicked93gs]

I plan to build a temporary wooden rotisserie for mine:

something of this nature...but outriggers on the end since I wouldn't trust just the bottom tie to hold it together...far cheaper for a tool I only plan on using once.

 

[02 281 GT]

I plan to build a temporary wooden rotisserie for mine:

something of this nature...but outriggers on the end since I wouldn't trust just the bottom tie to hold it together...far cheaper for a tool I only plan on using once.

That's really neat!

I kind of want to get a rotisserie also because I'm not ruling out the possibility of building another car in the future. I'm gaining a lot of experience with this one.

 

[horse sence]

A lot of people buy a rotisserie then sell it after they use it . I have 3 now i made my self . I posted a thread quite a while back on how to make one

 

[RaggedGT]

A lot of people buy a rotisserie then sell it after they use it . I have 3 now i made my self . I posted a thread quite a while back on how to make one

Found it

Build Your Own Universal Rotisserie .

I like to build my own rotisseries .It is adaptable very easily to almost any thing and fully adjustable .It breaks down into a 4 foot x 2 foot x about 4 1/2 foot tall unit that can be rolled into a corner to store when not in use . Some like a single bar connecter ,i like a double bar because...

stangnet.com

 

[02 281 GT]

I saw that before. Honestly, before I build my own rotisserie I need a truck to haul all the tubing.

 

[RaggedGT]

Put a trailer hitch on the Mercury, it'll haul a car trailer no problem

 

[02 281 GT]

Put a trailer hitch on the Mercury, it'll haul a car trailer no problem

That’s actually a pretty good idea!

 

[wicked93gs]

Building one from steel would not be difficult....but in the end that is still $500 in steel,hydraulic booms(if you plan to build a fully functional one), welding supplies, etc. Far easier to buy maybe 20 2x4s(you dont need the 4x4s in the picture above if you simply cribbage together 4 2x4s). As for the rotisserie spindles themselves...I have a couple of old heavy duty driveshafts and some 4" 3/8" wall angle iron sitting in my garage that will do nicely. Making one from wood based will cost me maybe $60(or $100 if I actually needed to buy the steel...maybe $120 if I were going to put casters on it to wheel it around)...and there is nothing to prevent using it on multiple cars anyway(its pretty easy to unscrew it for storage I would imagine)

 

[horse sence]

Welded steel would still be a whole lot safer ,like i said you can sell it after you use it . If you plan on doing another car i would go steel . I have had atleast 20 cars on my first rotisserie and the other two have had at least 5 each on them ,most of these cars were mine

 

[wicked93gs]

Steel is better...no doubt about it...but the strength rating of a single 2x4 that is 8' long is 1000lbs if it were horizontal and you were applying weight on-end in the center...when applying the weight at one end on an angle that strength is far greater....and that is for just one 2x4...so assuming you are using 8(4 cribbaged together on each end)...and assuming they were horizontal in the weaker position, that still has a load capacity of 8000lbs...about 3 times the weight of a fully loaded mustang. That of course does not take into account the strength of the hardware used to attach them at the spindle crotch area....that hardware is the most likely failure point....you would want to use lag bolts there...your average lag bolt is going to be as strong as the hardware people use for the frame attachment points for rotisseries anyway.(I used to be a carpenter...you would be amazed and how strong wood is when used correctly...take a look at some of the bamboo scaffolding still used in the east...its amazing what they can load onto those things) My point is I would have no qualms about using a wooden rotisserie assuming the spindles and attachment brackets are steel.

You are absolutely right though, assuming you have the floating cash, it is best to buy a metal one made for the task, use it, then sell it(or possibly just rent one if you can find someone renting one out).

 

[horse sence]

I also worked commercial construction for 30 years ,wood and steel construction ,had to give it up ,it was to hard on the body

 

[2Blue2]

he strength rating of a single 2x4 that is 8' long is 1000lbs i

Ive seen a 4x4x8 break in middle under 300lbs load, wood has a lot of variance in its actual strength.
Every fastener in it weakens it some too.
Wood failure occurs all at once with a snap, metal bends some first before failure.
I still think your alright with this given application. As stated the spindle is the weak spot.