The Tragic Tale of ElSuperPinto

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Was thinkng that RatFink knob doesn't really match up with that Bemmers interior...
Nope.

True story, when I was on the fence about whether to turbocharge the Lincoln engine or not, there was the distinct possibility of it having polished aluminum BMW bolts holding down the intake manifold. I'm not doing that with boost though. I'd gone so far as to test fit the manifold with all the discarded aluminum bolts of the right length I could find and having polished a few up.
 
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Because of the RatFink Knob... shouldn't it be: Hot Rat Lincoln II ?! :)
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Don't switch an non-R1234yf system over to it.

On top of it being mildly corrosive and mildly flammable and turning into toxic by-products if it catches fire, it's expensive as hell. The odds are your old R12 system wouldn't handle it, hell, systems from one of the beacons of reliability (Honda) aren't holding up to it in spite of being designed for it.

ES12a is just a blend of propane and butane, so it's more flammable than 1234, but it's going to cool as good as, if not better than R12. The big downsides are the flammability and the fact it's actually illegal: https://www.epa.gov/snap/unacceptable-substitute-refrigerants

134a in old R12 systems is a real crap shoot and depends almost 100% on getting ALL of the moisture out of the system and using Ester oil instead of trying to use PAG.
If the tech knows their stuff and the customer does not cheap out on parts and labor, 134a can work better than the R12 ever did. Matt is right about the old oil. It is not a just fix the R12 leak and recharge with R134a swap.
 
If the tech knows their stuff and the customer does not cheap out on parts and labor, 134a can work better than the R12 ever did. Matt is right about the old oil. It is not a just fix the R12 leak and recharge with R134a swap.
I've never seen a 134a retrofit cool better than R12, and I've seen a lot of woefully inadequate factory 134a systems (2009-2014 F150s being the worst). 134a is an inferior refrigerant compared to 12, it's just a lot safer for the environment, and a lot cheaper in most countries. I've had 134a conversions that worked pretty damned good though, most notably in my '87 GT and an '83 Pontiac Bonneville, but, as you said, knowing how to do it correctly is key. Both of those got full system flushes, the receiver/drier or accumulator replaced, vacuumed down for an hour, ester oil, and compensated 134a charges to perform well. Anyone not doing all of that might as well not be trying, as they're going to have a bad time.
 
That's awfully clean! :jester:

I used to have an 87 Ranger STX 4x4 regular cab short box. In my hometown we had a place where we could go offroad and play around like that. The first time I went through there with my Ranger I had a buddy who decided to ride in the back holding onto the roll bar. I hit a mud bog and when we come out the other side and stopped, he jumped out of the back of the truck and looked like he buried himself in mud. There wasn't a clean spot left on the truck, except maybe where he was holding on to the rollbar. That was just one of our "adventures" :rlaugh:

Got me thinking of my old truck..... This is pretty much exactly what it was. Mine had the steel wheels with trim rings and was a solid, dark metallic brown. Loved that truck.....

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I had an 86’ with that same stripe package-mine was the dark maroon- Ran like a top- Smoked like a freight train :D


NSFW:

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FrKAEO9BrHE
 
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Also, I bought more :poo: for THRLIIFKAESP:


 
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Got both ready for powdercoating. Was going to chrome coat these, but the casting quality is poor, so I'm going with Harley Davidson Warlock Gray which is a textured coating that will give these a nicer look since it'll help hide the casting imperfections. (I decided not to do the SVT covers and keep the engine all-Lincoln).
 
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