The Tragic Tale of ElSuperPinto

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I'm so essential that I built my own shop!
 
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I think you might need to have a talk with your guy in the left bay. His flag says he's busy but he's clearly not. He's just standing around, most likely shooting the :poo: with the Mac rep....
 
I think you might need to have a talk with your guy in the left bay. His flag says he's busy but he's clearly not. He's just standing around, most likely shooting the :poo: with the Mac rep....
That's the service advisor, spouting :bs: is his job.

I've been planning a Coyote swap for this car for so long... even acquired a few of the pieces for it (including a whole damned transmission!)... and I'm wavering.


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U8SsieMdmYk


A $200 junkyard 351W shortblock from a 1994-1996 F-series pickup or Econoline van, with a $2500 Edelbrock top-end kit will have me at Coyote power levels, and bolt to the the existing motor mounts, transmission, and accessories. That still leaves me with an automatic, but for the money I was going to spend on making the Coyote fit after the acquisition of it... I can throw a Gear Vendors overdrive unit on the C4 and have six gears instead of three, or do a TKO swap.

For less money, I can have the same power from a 351W, and it'd be a hell of a lot easier.

I'm just trying to figure out why "easier" is suddenly a consideration at all with this car.
 
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Go the more difficult route. That way it can cost you more, and take an extreme amount of time to do, and frustrate you with hours of welding and fabrication until there seems no end in sight. Add to that fun with no off-the -shelf parts availability and fitting a square peg into a round hole engine clearance issues only to have that all wrapped up someday in a car that has way more time and money into it that you can ever hope to recoup. Do all of that for the same amount of power that theoretically you can get with a built up engine that will drop right in......it's my mission statement.
 
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Go the more difficult route. That way it can cost you more, and take an extreme amount of time to do, and frustrate you with hours of welding and fabrication until there seems no end in sight. Add to that fun with no off-the -shelf parts availability and fitting a square peg into a round hole engine clearance issues only to have that all wrapped up someday in a car that has way more time and money into it that you can ever hope to recoup. Do all of that for the same amount of power that theoretically you can get with a built up engine that will drop right in......it's my mission statement.
You and @CarMichael Angelo are soulmates.
 
Why don't you boost you existing engine? Or still the 1UZ?!?

STOP MAKING SENSE DAMMIT! :rlaugh:

The short answer is... I don't want to.

EDIT:

The long answer is... the engine it has... is a tempermental little bastard. It was built the first time in the 90s by a friend of the previous owner, then torn down to the short block and put back together by me with some improvements and corrections to get even more power out of it, and while it runs well, it's been over-revved a few times (the "sweet spot" for shifting this particular combination is about 200rpm beyond the design limitations of the block, and while it seems to have survived the handful of times I turned up the rev limiter and went for broke, each one has likely stressed the block), has sat for years at a time multiple times, and could honestly use a rebuild, if for no other reason than peace of mind. It is also a product of the time in which it was built the first time in that it has heavily worked-over iron heads where aftermarket aluminum heads would unlock even more power (aftermarket aluminum heads weren't really a thing for 302s in the 90s, but now they're cheaper than modifying iron heads). By the time I sink $2500+ into good heads for it, machine shop fees for the block, and possibly buy new pistons... I've started creeping into "might as well" territory.

As in "might as well" spend the extra $200 on a salvage yard 351W short block and start there.

As in "might as well" go ahead and build it with the modern conveniences of a factory fuel-injected engine with variable cam timing.

As in "might as well" go for broke and put the 5 or 6 speed manual transmission in it that I've always wanted.

I've had three other 302-powered Mustangs (including one other 302-powered Mustang II), and just want something different from this car.
 
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This is the hole on the right rear quarter panel I mentioned earlier. It kind of showed up out of nowhere.

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Nice margins around it when I wire brush it. Cool, I suck at welding, and my welder isn't the best, nor is it the best for this, but I think I can handle a little 1"x2" patch.

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Well, that complicates things, but I still got this, right?

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What the? Oh :leghump:. Well, let's see how much further it goes.

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Jesus Tapdancing Christ! What the :leghump: do I do about this???

@Davedacarpainter @2Blue2 @LILCBRA @rusty428cj @429MII @CarMichael Angelo any advice ya'll have would be appreciated. I'm going to stop there for the night after hitting it with a light coat of Rustoleum to keep the bare metal from flash rusting overnight.
 
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This is the hole on the right rear quarter panel I mentioned earlier. It kind of showed up out of nowhere.

20200502_192443.jpg


Nice margins around it when I wire brush it. Cool, I suck at welding, and my welder isn't the best, nor is it the best for this, but I think I can handle a little 1"x2" patch.

20200502_192449.jpg


Well, that complicates things, but I still got this, right?

20200502_193045.jpg


What the? Oh :leghump:. Well, let's see how much further it goes.

20200502_194219.jpg

Jesus Tapdancing Christ! What the :leghump: do I do about this???

@Davedacarpainter @2Blue2 @LILCBRA @rusty428cj @429MII @CarMichael Angelo any advice ya'll have would be appreciated. I'm going to stop there for the night after hitting it with a light coat of Rustoleum to keep the bare metal from flash rusting overnight.
You got to cut it all out and patch it up, if you don’t find every bit of it, it’ll come back.
 
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lol....sorry for laughing but I have "been there done that" so many times it is funny when you see it in pictures, and the sinking feeling as you cut more and more away. Pinholes on the outside are the worst because at first it doesn't look too bad until you realize a whole panel can be rusted through to almost just the paint thickness and all one might see is a tiny pin hole in one spot.

You have gone down the rust rabbit hole my friend, and sometimes you don't know where it will end. Short story is you will have to cut out that part on the side too so you will end up making a 90 degree patch panel (or two flats welded into a 90) to fix it. also you will have to remove (even temporarily) a piece big enough to get to what ever repairs are behind it (structural support). I will fix that rust for you if you build my headers though.. :)
 
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Me and the welder had a disagreement. The welder won. I've shot the bare metal in spray paint again pending a discussion with a co-worker and/or a discussion with a friend of mine that does body work tomorrow.

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In the meantime, I thing I'm going to try and sell my practice piece as abstract art with some pretentious meaning to idiots with more money than sense.
 
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20200502_180408.jpg


This is the hole on the right rear quarter panel I mentioned earlier. It kind of showed up out of nowhere.

20200502_192443.jpg


Nice margins around it when I wire brush it. Cool, I suck at welding, and my welder isn't the best, nor is it the best for this, but I think I can handle a little 1"x2" patch.

20200502_192449.jpg


Well, that complicates things, but I still got this, right?

20200502_193045.jpg


What the? Oh :leghump:. Well, let's see how much further it goes.

20200502_194219.jpg

Jesus Tapdancing Christ! What the :leghump: do I do about this???

@Davedacarpainter @2Blue2 @LILCBRA @rusty428cj @429MII @CarMichael Angelo any advice ya'll have would be appreciated. I'm going to stop there for the night after hitting it with a light coat of Rustoleum to keep the bare metal from flash rusting overnight.


That sucks! About the only thing I can say is that you'll probably have to cut more away than you'll like to be able to repair it all. It would definitely be easier if you were replacing a quarter, that would give you the access needed to be able to see exactly what you have to deal with. If you have someone who's good at body work it may be the best option as they're most likely more experienced in that kind of stuff.
 
New rack is in... STILL can't get that gorram steering shaft out. Hell, I even have the spot I need to cut it at scribed!

I'm thinking about taking the driver's side header out for room to work. I'm not 100% sure that'll be effective though.


View: https://youtu.be/XqYWcp1JH7Y
 
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