Progress Thread Therapy Car-- Freshening Up the Lower Intake

This is the tag that is on the current transmission.

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Alright, switching to the other end of the car. The PO apparently clearance the upper control arms on both sides on the rear of the car.

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Is that something I should worry about? At some point I'll probably change them. I'm already going to change the lowers when I change the bushings and springs.

Man, this poor old car has been jacked up from every conceivable wrong point. It has so many dents and mashed up spots from people just throwing a jack under it and hoping for the best. This is the cross member on the passenger side. I know this is a common issue with these cars.

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And the salty south Louisiana air has coated the bottom of the car with surface rust.
 
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I’m pretty sure I got my bushing and seal from LMR. The seal was longer like yours as well, but the part that went into the housing seemed to be the same, so I went with it. No leaks so far.
My shifter hole seemed to be “hacked” as well, but as far as I know, mine was always a manual as well.

My trans cross member seemed to be rusting from the inside out in that “tube”. I would pull it and check it out. I went with the Stifflers when I changed it out.

And...... :rock: on that welder!!
 
The factory hacked up the hump to make 5 speed cars. There was no complete 5 speed floor pan from ford. The one I pulled my hump from in the JY looked like someone did it with a wiz wheel....but it was factory.

Those control arms look pretty bad. I'd change them while you're there.

That welder is nice !!!

I believe the ford seal was long like the one you got.

The scarring on the bushing is no bueno. I wouldn't install it either.

It's a shame what some of these cars have been through. That surface rust is nothing compared to what the salted roads do to cars up here.
 
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Just ordered a new bushing from LMR. It looks just like the one that I removed from the tail housing. Rock Auto refunded the bushing so I'm good to go there. New bushing wont be here until next Tuesday. That gives me plenty of time to get everything cleaned up and ready to go back together.
 
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Any suggestions on good upper control arms? I would rather not go back with stock style uppers as I'll just have the same issue as the PO. I'm probably going to put MM lower control arms on.

For the lowers I'm thinking either this


or this


Eventually the exhaust will get replaced and hopefully it will fit over the axle a little better.
 
The only good uppers have spherical joints at the rear connecting point. Other than those the factory ones are great. Hard bushing uppers tend to bind up. Factory style uppers will be fine unless you need to make pinion angle adjustments. At that point you'd need adjustable uppers with heims or spherical joints. ( harsh ride ). I'd stick with new stock style unless dramatically lowered or dialing in a drag set up.
 
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I'd stick with new stock style unless dramatically lowered or dialing in a drag set up.
Car isn't dramatically lowered and wont be dialing in a drag set up. I'll probably just get a set of factory style uppers. The only reason I was considering a different style upper was for exhaust clearancing. I'll get new stuff and if the exhaust is hitting it I'll figure out where to go from there. The exhaust shouldn't be hitting like that.

I definitely don't want to make the ride too harsh!
 
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Not much to report on the car. The mail lost my speedometer gears, so I've got to figure out what they are going to do about that. I'm still waiting for the new tail shaft seal to get here. Should be here tomorrow. In the mean time I've been messing around with this.

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This is a single phase 120 gallon compressor that my dad gave to me. It's been with us for probably 25 years at this point, but it works and it was free! There is always a catch right? A couple of years ago my dad was moving this with a bobcat and it slid off and hit the fly wheel on the compressor. It bent the shaft slightly. Couple that with the fact that this thing has always made one hell of a racket with running, so there is some fixing that needs to happen. I got it wired up and it pumped up to 170psi and kicked of. Cracked the discharge valve and it kicked back on around 120psi. Of course it's wobbling around because of the bent shaft, but it is running.

The deal was that my dad will supply parts to fix the compressor as long as I break it down and figure out what we need to get. We've already checked and you can still get every part on this thing.

I got the flywheel off and everything taken off of the compressor. Actually didn't really have any trouble getting anything to come loose. Well, I took the end off of the crank case so that I could see what was going on in there. This is what I found....

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EWWWWW! LOL If you look close you'll see a ring hanging down about in the middle of the crank case. I think that is a piston ring just flopping around on the crank! Maybe it isn't a piston ring, but it isn't supposed to be where it is that much if for sure. I've got no clue how this thing comes apart, so I'm going to do some research and try to find an exploded view of the compressor so that I can at least see what all I'm dealing with.

This is the model number.

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I would stay with factory uppers. If you go with aftermarket lowers and uppers with poly or solid bushings, it can make the ride pretty rough. It's hell on the torque boxes too. Hell the stock stuff is hell on the torque boxes. When I got my 85, and was changing exhaust, I happened to look at the upper and noticed one was cracked and pulling off the floor pan. I've repaired that, but since you have it up on a lift, it might be worth a look see.
 
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I'm not sure what is going on with the USPS here. I ordered the tail shaft bushing and the speedometer gears in two separate orders from LMR. They both shipped via UPS who then gave it to the USPS for final delivery. I can track the order through UPS and they have my full address. When it transfers to the USPS the address is just Enterprise Al, 36330. No street or name. The packages say they are at the post office, but I cant get them on the phone. This is the first time I've every had trouble getting packages from LMR, but I normally order more stuff so UPS just delivers it. So if anyone reading this lives in Enterprise and randomly received a tail shaft bushing and speedometer gears for a 3.73 rear end please contact me!
 
Still no parts from USPS. I guess I'm going to have to go up there on Saturday and see if I can locate my stuff.

Well the air compressor turned into an extremely heavy and not very practical paper weight last night. :( I took the HP piston out and took it apart. The piston was just flopping around on the wrist pin so I knew it was BAD. This is what was left of the bearing. It should be one piece and have needle bearings. It's in two pieces with no needles.

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That by its self isn't that big of a deal, but combine it with all the other parts that will be needed and it just isn't worth fixing. So the hunt is on for a replacement!

Some body tell me if this is a bad idea. The compressor is still sitting on the pad by the shop. There isn't anything wrong with the tank so I was thinking about just putting another pad down and piping the new compressor into the tank of the old one. This would just give me a much larger working volume, and I dont really need it, but it's already there.
 
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What do you mean its broke it was still running!
Where have I heard this before?

Wow! Toasted Carnage
Fun to see, sucks to own/fix

Cheapest approach is swapping a used pump onto existing tank

The Tank, As long as you got a pump that can fill it reasonable fast and it aint rusty inside (its old right!?!)
Do'n t want to listen to it run for an hour each time you turn it on.
 
This a video I took before breaking it down. Yes, it was "running" lol, but you can see it shaking around and hear it as well. It might have lasted years or days, but after seeing the condition of the HP wrist it was about to come unglued!


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=to1F7AZwEmg


I'm going to be on the hunt for either a compressor that I can put on it or for a working used unit. My dad is really driving the decision making process as he is the one that wanted to give me a compressor and is offering to fund the project. If he wants to buy another working compressor I'm not going to argue. I have a small air compressor that will keep getting me by as it has for years now.
 
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The wiring is temporary just to get it going and test it out. I have a hard pipe running under the shop slab that comes up by the compressor. The wire is ran through it, but I didn't know what the final configuration was going to be so I left it extra long.
 
Just the compressor would be cheaper than buying another unit. .most of them are universal sizes. Bolt holes usually line up to mounting pad on the tank. I've replaced them on a few old shop compressors....and old farm compressors. As long as the tank is good everything else can be replaced.
 
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I agree that putting a new compressor on the existing tank is the easiest path forward. I have found several compressors that would would work just fine. I did find this though.


It is probably made in China, but I believe Kellogg stuff has been made in China for a while now. I'm hoping that he goes with it. I know it works, the motor is sized for it and has the proper pulley, and I have all the necessary hard lines to pipe it up to the pump.
 
The stuff from LMR finally showed up! :banana:

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Maybe I'll get the tail shaft housing back on this weekend. That would be good. Any words of wisdom on putting in the new tail shaft bushing? I'm going to use a piece of wood and a large socket to get it in, but I believe it needs to be orientated a certain way so that the oil flows back into the housing. I've seen a video on TubeYou, so I'll look that back up. The new bushing is a much better quality than the other one that I got. It's also thicker than the one that I took out of the car. I thought the old one didn't look bad, but now I'm guessing it was worn thin.

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In other news the new transmission cross-member came in yesterday as well! Good thing I have the welder now as I didn't really fully appreciate what "adjustable" meant. The cross member is not welded to the tubes that the mounting bushings and bolts go through. You put it up on your car. Put it where it needs to be and weld it in place.

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Any opinions on leaving the rubber bushings in or swapping them out for the poly bushings that I have? The one already on it look good and I think they are going to be a bear to get out.