Progress Thread Therapy Car--Car stuff again

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Olivethefet

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May 17, 2018
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Just checked. Looks like they sell both styles. Doesn't indicate that one is for left or right. Unfortunately it appears that I paid a $20 premium per sensor buying it from LMR instead of Rock Auto. LMR has awesome customer service though.
 

Rdub6

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Dec 29, 2017
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I always go to Rock Auto for the basic maintenance stuff. LMR, as good as they are, have a premium on EVERYTHING. I got the large rivet gun they sell , same exact thing, at Harbor Freight for half the price.
SHOP AROUND!!!
 
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Olivethefet

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May 17, 2018
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I wasn't planning on working on the shop floor this weekend, but I did anyway. Spent about 10 hours out there yesterday sweating my butt off smearing epoxy all over the place.

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The kit I got came with spikes that strap to you shoes so that you can walk around in the wet epoxy. Those things are awesome! If you're ever using them be CAREFUL. They allow you to get around, but have little to no grip. I almost busted my butt countless times. I would have looked funny covered in blue paint!

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This is the primer. Next step it to put down the mid coat. Hopefully I'll be able to do that this weekend. Then I'll get the clear coat on top and it will be done!
 

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Olivethefet

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May 17, 2018
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How hard is it to install one of these map lights?


My car currently has this style map light.


My car has a sunroof if that makes a difference. I've always liked the first style map light.
 

Olivethefet

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May 17, 2018
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I’ve always liked those antennas but was skeptical about what it would do to my reception. Let me know what you think
I'll let you know once I get to spend some time in the car. Honestly I run my radio off of my phone, so the antenna really isn't doing anything. I though the car looked wrong with no antenna, so I bought this.

I got the other O2 sensor in yesterday. Took the car for a quick spin and it seems to be running better. Maybe it's all in my head, but it felt better.

On a different note I got on it a little getting into traffic. Now my slight exhaust tick is now a much louder tick. I'm going to get a set of header gaskets and pull the passenger header. I'm hoping that I'll find that the old gasket just blew under load.

I made some progress on the shop floor over the weekend. I went to mop it Saturday morning and found that even with the coat of epoxy, the little fiberglass hair wads were so rough that it was pulling material off of my mop. That was kinda of a bummer, but it just means a little more work. This is the primer coat so I rented a floor buffer with 100 grit pads from Home Depot. Spent all evening running that around in the shop and now its slick! If the weather cooperates and we dont have company this coming weekend I'll maybe get the second coat down.

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Olivethefet

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May 17, 2018
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Enterprise AL
I got the header loose on the passenger side. This is my first time working with long tube headers on a car. I had an old 76 Bronco once that had long tubes on it. It was a completely different engine compartment. It had tons of room under the hood, so it was easy to work on.

When I got the header loose it was easy to see that the gasket was an old paper one that was crumbling. I was able to get one large chunk out, but I still have a little left to get out near the back of the motor. I can only move the header at most .25" at the front and less toward the rear. I'm going to use a piece of metal banding material as a scraper and knock the rest of the old gasket out. I'm pretty sure that this is the reason I had the leak.

20190724_093048.jpg


You can see in the pic that the openings in the gasket are slightly smaller than the openings in the header. I have BBK long tubs, just for reference. I was going to get a set of copper gaskets, but the ones that LMR sold specifically said that they did not recommend them for use with BBK headers. I just went ahead and got the 1 5/8" gaskets manufactured by BBK. They appear to be a much more substantial gasket than what was on it. The old gaskets are Mr. Gasket brand. I see them being sold in all the parts stores. I'm just going to do the one side at this point. Once I get to the point where I can get into the shop and use the lift I'll tackle the other side. I have a feeling it will make things a bit easier. I know I can do it on the ground, but I need a list of thing to break the lift in with!

Long term I plan on changing out the entire exhaust system at some point. If I don't make major changes to the motor I'll probably go back with a quality shorty header. Definitely going to put cats back on it to cut down on the gas smell if for nothing else.

I've read in a couple of places that you need the smog system in place if you are utilizing cats. How true is that? I would think they would work OK, but might clog up prematurely due to no smog equipment.

Also, the AC orifice tube is sandwiched between the inner finder and the #1 header tube. This cant be good. Currently the system is new, but not charged and working, so it hasn't been an issue. I was thinking about trying to bend the orifice tube so that it will run above the header. I could maybe get a fastener that I could use to mount the tube higher up on the finder. Let me know what you guys would recommend. I wouldn't be bending the orifice portion of the tube. Just the area before and after it.
 

Olivethefet

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May 17, 2018
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This looks AWESOME!!!! I really wish that I had a lift in my garage
Thanks man! I'm pretty excited about it. Having to wait to get in there and use it until after I get the floor done is like putting up a Christmas tree with presents under it, in front of your kids, 6 month before Christmas! Torture!
 

stanglx2002

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I got the header loose on the passenger side. This is my first time working with long tube headers on a car. I had an old 76 Bronco once that had long tubes on it. It was a completely different engine compartment. It had tons of room under the hood, so it was easy to work on.

When I got the header loose it was easy to see that the gasket was an old paper one that was crumbling. I was able to get one large chunk out, but I still have a little left to get out near the back of the motor. I can only move the header at most .25" at the front and less toward the rear. I'm going to use a piece of metal banding material as a scraper and knock the rest of the old gasket out. I'm pretty sure that this is the reason I had the leak.

20190724_093048.jpg


You can see in the pic that the openings in the gasket are slightly smaller than the openings in the header. I have BBK long tubs, just for reference. I was going to get a set of copper gaskets, but the ones that LMR sold specifically said that they did not recommend them for use with BBK headers. I just went ahead and got the 1 5/8" gaskets manufactured by BBK. They appear to be a much more substantial gasket than what was on it. The old gaskets are Mr. Gasket brand. I see them being sold in all the parts stores. I'm just going to do the one side at this point. Once I get to the point where I can get into the shop and use the lift I'll tackle the other side. I have a feeling it will make things a bit easier. I know I can do it on the ground, but I need a list of thing to break the lift in with!

Long term I plan on changing out the entire exhaust system at some point. If I don't make major changes to the motor I'll probably go back with a quality shorty header. Definitely going to put cats back on it to cut down on the gas smell if for nothing else.

I've read in a couple of places that you need the smog system in place if you are utilizing cats. How true is that? I would think they would work OK, but might clog up prematurely due to no smog equipment.

Also, the AC orifice tube is sandwiched between the inner finder and the #1 header tube. This cant be good. Currently the system is new, but not charged and working, so it hasn't been an issue. I was thinking about trying to bend the orifice tube so that it will run above the header. I could maybe get a fastener that I could use to mount the tube higher up on the finder. Let me know what you guys would recommend. I wouldn't be bending the orifice portion of the tube. Just the area before and after it.
You can run cats without the usage of the smog system. I have been running High Flow Cats on my car for a few years now to reduce the exhaust sound and gas smell as well.
 
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CarMichael Angelo

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I've had long tube headers on every engine I've ever had in a car that didn't have a turbo on it. They are only problematic until you come to terms with the fact that dealing with them requires the one nut be removed from the motor mount and the engine lifted with a floor jack on the side you're working on. In some instances, I was able to generate enough room that the damn header kept trying to fall back out.
 

Olivethefet

Slap me as well as point and laugh
May 17, 2018
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Enterprise AL
They are only problematic until you come to terms with the fact that dealing with them requires the one nut be removed from the motor mount and the engine lifted with a floor jack on the side you're working on.
Thanks for the input Mike. When I was working on it the other day I reasoned that if I couldn't get the gasket in and out as it is I would need to loosen the motor from the mount on that side and lift it. Having confirmation that this is a common issue and lifting the motor is a viable solution makes me feel better about my plan of attack.

By the way. To anyone following the progress thread or reacting to my post in other threads. My name is Nick. Just in case you don't want to refer to me as Olivethefet. That's just a nickname from a long time ago.